Fuji X-T3 released

What about this? Jump to 0:50 if you're in a hurry (Seems like the forum sw doesn't support YouTube's start-time function):


I need to have my sixth or seventh binge watching session of 30 Rock, def one of the funniest network comedies in decades.
 
My main problem with the digital post tools isn't do they work or not, it's that it's usually an editor or colorist and not a makeup artist sitting in the edit bay. Example number one above just takes a detailed image and turns it to mush, the softening looks so obvious.

The PP example, some of the results look like plastic robots

The best example is when the instructor in the PP video says that "Blending modes can be used subtley" That's the key to NOT overdue it. We should never make humans look "perfect", we should make them look human. I use Portrait Professional for stills and it's scary at how ridiculous the effects are even at default 40-50% mode. I usually dial it back to about 10-15% and my favorite option for video is very subtle diffusion and blend modes. I recently edited an interview with a 94 year old woman and it would look ridiculous to try to make her look "perfect" with no wrinkles, which is what a lot of editors and clients would try to do. I've also had women, believe it or not, react to what they perceived as over editing and softening of their imperfections, "That looks good, but it doesn't look like me". We have reached a point with digital post production tricks where humans end up looking more like avatars than good looking humans. It's a huge problem and one of my pet peeves as I can spot an over post processed face a mile away and it looks ridiculous, not even human. I'm def a fan of natural beauty and the other factor is good lighting. If you are trying to make a face look good, light it well for beauty, that should take care of at least 50-60% of skin and structural issues. Sloppy post processing is a poor fix for bad/unflattering lighting.

Agree it's best to have great lighting and makeup, as well as a great camera + lens + codec. Sometimes the stars align and all that happens and sometimes it rains haha. Some clients want oversmoothing, some don't, depends on the client (especially for stills). I also use Portrait Pro, and always turn off "Fix Lighting". Even at low levels it's too much. Also turn off Plump Lips and other face items, then tune smoothing, color etc. In PP I use ACR to the fullest extent. In cases where areas get too smooth, I regrain (add noise). In the past I used Frequency Separation, however that looks super fake to me now (even though it preserves some detail).

For video, it's the same- in cases where things aren't ideal when shooting, each of these tools/methods are worth trying out. PP CC and Resolve have excellent tracking/keying tools- regraining just the face/skin is also helpful and relatively easy to to. I think for the demos they overdo the smoothing so it's easy to see- when using for real work you can always dial it back.

If one doesn't have control of the post pipeline, indeed best to make as excellent as possible in-camera!
 
So did the fuji camera rep straight lie to my face or am I just not seeing how this thing has DUAL VIDEO RECORDING to TWO INTERNAL SD CARDS?
I asked him very clearly if it recorded 4k to two cards as a backup and he told me 100% yes.
 
Agree it's best to have great lighting and makeup, as well as a great camera + lens + codec. Sometimes the stars align and all that happens and sometimes it rains haha. Some clients want oversmoothing, some don't, depends on the client (especially for stills). I also use Portrait Pro, and always turn off "Fix Lighting". Even at low levels it's too much. Also turn off Plump Lips and other face items, then tune smoothing, color etc. In PP I use ACR to the fullest extent. In cases where areas get too smooth, I regrain (add noise). In the past I used Frequency Separation, however that looks super fake to me now (even though it preserves some detail).

For video, it's the same- in cases where things aren't ideal when shooting, each of these tools/methods are worth trying out. PP CC and Resolve have excellent tracking/keying tools- regraining just the face/skin is also helpful and relatively easy to to. I think for the demos they overdo the smoothing so it's easy to see- when using for real work you can always dial it back.

If one doesn't have control of the post pipeline, indeed best to make as excellent as possible in-camera!

In Resolve, I isolate the skin and then turn the midtone detail setting into the negative, usually around -30 to -40 to soften a complexion in a nice natural way.
 
In Resolve, I isolate the skin and then turn the midtone detail setting into the negative, usually around -30 to -40 to soften a complexion in a nice natural way.

Good tip- that's easy and fast and will work with the free version (perhaps implemented as a bilateral filter by the looks of the result (extreme example):
Bilateral_Filter.jpg

).
 
In Resolve, I isolate the skin and then turn the midtone detail setting into the negative, usually around -30 to -40 to soften a complexion in a nice natural way.

That's an excellent tip. Thanks. Better than the smooting functions of other tools.
 
Can someone tell me if a Fringer EF-FX pro or Viltrox, etc.. will drive my Sigma 50-150mm-F/2.8-AF EX APO DC OS HSM?
Autofocus doesn't work with C200, but, surprisingly, I discovered it works perfectly with Metabones on my GH4.
Weird
 
So did the fuji camera rep straight lie to my face or am I just not seeing how this thing has DUAL VIDEO RECORDING to TWO INTERNAL SD CARDS?
I asked him very clearly if it recorded 4k to two cards as a backup and he told me 100% yes.

It does not have dual card recording. I know, bummer but we get by without it. Haven't lost a card yet.
 
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Can someone tell me if a Fringer EF-FX pro or Viltrox, etc.. will drive my Sigma 50-150mm-F/2.8-AF EX APO DC OS HSM?
Autofocus doesn't work with C200, but, surprisingly, I discovered it works perfectly with Metabones on my GH4.
Weird

That lens is not listed on the Fringer compatibility list so it likely will work with the Fringer, but the AF will likely not work well. Trade it for the 50-100 1.8 ART and you'll be in business, it's on the list.
 
That lens is not listed on the Fringer compatibility list so it likely will work with the Fringer, but the AF will likely not work well. Trade it for the 50-100 1.8 ART and you'll be in business, it's on the list.

I know the list.
The point is, latest Sigma 50-150 has fast and silent motor, IQ on par with 18-35 and doesn't breathes as much as the 50-100.
Then, if Fringer can't add it (I wrote them and they pointed me to the list), I'll trade it for the 50-100 or for a used 70-200mkII.
 
I know the list.
The point is, latest Sigma 50-150 has fast and silent motor, IQ on par with 18-35 and doesn't breathes as much as the 50-100.
Then, if Fringer can't add it (I wrote them and they pointed me to the list), I'll trade it for the 50-100 or for a used 70-200mkII.

Not sure if they will add many more third party lenses? They don't seem to be very communicative.
 
Anyone else having banding issues with the X-T3? Shot some landscapes with blue sky yesterday and the first 4-5 frames have banding and then it disappears. 4K 23.98 200mbps Long GOP on Sandisk Extreme Pro 95MB/s.
 
More info on page 48 and others.

Thanks, Norbro. Happening on my x-t3 in sky but also on interior walls (solid colors), although less noticeably. Strange that it is happening for only 4-5 frames at head of take though, which leads me to believe it's a buffering issue?
 
As you (we) continue to dive into the world of new digital cameras -- from 100% of companies -- you may find random weird quirks in your journey. Some that are widely known of and others that may only affect random units. [I only say this from personal experience with owning more cameras than most human beings...like multiple quantities of models too.]

I just shipped off an a6400 to Connecticut for evaluation after some pixel issues while another body of mine is perfectly fine.

Regarding your particular issue, it could be a defective model, random writing/buffering issue, a post-production workflow error, etc.

If you post some samples, we can at least see what you're seeing.
 
Okay, so did more tests and the verdict is... Prores is the culprit. Camera masters are clean. I converted all of the h265 files to Prores 422 HQ for my edit and I'm getting banding of first 4 or 5 frames. Very weird. What's going on with Apple's QC lately? Left is Prores/right camera master. (the banding on the right image is digital artifacting because they're low res screen caps)
Prores 422 banding.jpgCamera original no banding.jpg
 
Okay, so did more tests and the verdict is... Prores is the culprit. Camera masters are clean. I converted all of the h265 files to Prores 422 HQ for my edit and I'm getting banding of first 4 or 5 frames. Very weird. What's going on with Apple's QC lately? Left is Prores/right camera master. (the banding on the right image is digital artifacting because they're low res screen caps)
View attachment 134983View attachment 134982

Both screenshots have severe banding, please post download links to original footage. Banding should be consistent across the entire duration not just a few frames. And ProRes codec wouldn't be the cause.
 
Okay, so did more tests and the verdict is... Prores is the culprit. Camera masters are clean. I converted all of the h265 files to Prores 422 HQ for my edit and I'm getting banding of first 4 or 5 frames. Very weird. What's going on with Apple's QC lately? Left is Prores/right camera master. (the banding on the right image is digital artifacting because they're low res screen caps)

How are you doing the transcoding?
 
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