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I'm pretty much in this camp. I haven't used mine a whole lot but unless I'm outside in the sunshine or have it lit up like christmas (which doesn't look good) I get the FPN at any ISO I wish to choose. I've never even shot anything above 400 ISO. I think its a great camera, but its just not gonna work for what I need it for. I know I've seen a ton of stuff done under conditions I'd be shooting with, but they either got a "bandingless" model or have figured out a magic way to work around it. It seems it would just be easier to buy a 7D or T2i. Alot of the "negatives" with those cameras aren't an issue with what I shoot.. recording limit etc.
I'm pretty much in this camp. I haven't used mine a whole lot but unless I'm outside in the sunshine or have it lit up like christmas (which doesn't look good) I get the FPN at any ISO I wish to choose. I've never even shot anything above 400 ISO. I think its a great camera, but its just not gonna work for what I need it for. I know I've seen a ton of stuff done under conditions I'd be shooting with, but they either got a "bandingless" model or have figured out a magic way to work around it. It seems it would just be easier to buy a 7D or T2i. Alot of the "negatives" with those cameras aren't an issue with what I shoot.. recording limit etc.
That's probably because you went from the small aperture kit lens to a large aperture Canon FD lens. The Canon FD lens itself at the same aperture setting as the kit lens will not eliminate the problem.
Randy
Do you have pics or video to show the difference? So you purposely stopped down your Canon FD lens to at least f4 or more since the kit lens can't open larger than that at 14mm, correct? What Canon FD lens was it since the kit lens stops down even more as you zoom in and I'm sure you didn't use a 14mm FD lens?
Also lots of backlight, which you had in your situation, helps eliminate banding.
Randy
A very interesting article was posted recently on Luminous Landscape regarding the issue of light loss in certain lens/sensor combinations (up to 1EV stop for some), which camera bodies allegedly compensate by upping the gain over the specified "nominal" value. The numbers for Panasonic gear were not given, but it is quite conceivable that some [significant] light loss could be occurring in as complex a design as the 14-140 kit lens. Given the electronic interface the lens could [theoretically] communicate the T-stops along with the F-stops causing the body to up the gain. With a non-electronic lens the body would have to either make some assumptions or not factor in this information at all. The banding is probably inherent to image processing routines. It just seems that some factors, like under exposure, or complex exposure (multiple zones of variyng brightness), the really slow lens (in the worst case scenario of 1 EV loss, the kit at 50mm would have T value of 8!) contribute to banding occurring at even lower ISO values that are considered "safe".Hi Randy... I was only reporting my actual observations at a shoot which I was doing to pay the rent, not to test theories posted at dvx. So you must excuse the fact that I to not have the material here to post right away...
Now regarding your question: the kit zoom lens was zoomed to approx 50mm @ f 5.6 with 1/50 (I am shooting PAL). After seeing the banding I popped on the Cannon 50mm 1.4 and stopped down to 5.6 without further metering as this was a stress-shoot with no time to fumble around with lighting/settings. (Which is why I originally wanted to have the zoom flexability)
I might still be able to get ahold of the original material, although I think I deleted the faulty (banding) shot(s).
But what your post points out is something much more troublesome than software-correction of geometry problems. And it in fact supports my original hypothesis that something in the way the automatic kit-zoom lens was communicating with the gh1-body was causing the banding problem I was getting. Because it disappeared as soon as the FD-lens was attached.One of the more controversial aspects of the Micro Four Thirds system is Panasonic's decision to integrate software lens aberration correction as a fundamental component of the imaging chain (which the company has unfortunately chosen not to publicly document)
@Randy: please stop trying to prove that anyone who doesn't agree with you is either stupid or a liar. I doesn't help the discussion at all. The fact that banding does not consistently appear under certain situations in all cameras is proof that this is more than just a production bug.
I have several Canon FD lenses including the 50mm f1.4 and they in no way rid the GH1 of banding issues.
This example took all of 5 minutes to do just now with a Canon 50mm f1.4 lens, f4, 1600 ISO at 1/50. First pic is just resized and the second one is brightened up to show the banding more easily.
Send me anyone else's GH1 and I bet I can produce the same banding problem with any lens.
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Now this pic is where people think they have no banding problem or do a crop from one part of the pic where the banding isn't noticeable and say there is no banding in the entire pic. Same settings as before but at f1.4. Notice that there is really no banding in the majority of the pic, the banding is really only pronounced in the shadow area on the left and some on the right. Original resized first, brightened one second.
Randy
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Shoot exactly the same settings with Dynamic mode, contrast +2, NR +2, Sharpness +2, and Saturation -2 and I bet you won't see banding![]()