Filming with a 7d in a nightclub - advice needed please

We just shot some very low light club footage at a concert with a 60D. Most of the footage was shot between 2.2 and 2.8 around 800ISO and it turned out very clean. That said, you will really be babysitting focus at that aperture. I can upload some sample footage if you care to see it.
 
We just shot some very low light club footage at a concert with a 60D. Most of the footage was shot between 2.2 and 2.8 around 800ISO and it turned out very clean. That said, you will really be babysitting focus at that aperture. I can upload some sample footage if you care to see it.

I shot material in a bar last week. Didn't push it beyond 800ISO (with my 550D) as the noise was becoming too much. 800 was borderline acceptable.
 
after some recent ISO tests I've recently seen on the web, I think noise is not determined by ISO as much as by available light: ISO 3200 is perfectly clean if there's enough light to shoot ISO 400, it's the fact that you actually need a higher ISO (because there's very little light) which creates the noise
 
Dont point directly point it at laser lights you might damage the chip...happened to a friend of mine. The chip is very expensive.
 
Let me revisit this a couple of years later...

I just shot this:
http://vimeo.com/89865249


Lots of lessons learnt:
* As I anticipated, when shooting at a club, you're aiming for low-key, so it's fine if there's no much light.
* If you can talk to the management, don't ask them to throw more light, ask them to throw more smoke; smoke is your best friend.
* If you bring a torch, it can look like people are dancing in their living room. I won't do it.
* Try to get your subjects backlit, it looks A LOT better than front lit. Like: A LOT.
* Flares are your friends too, let those colorful lights hit the lens (unless they are lasers! those can kill the sensor!)

I shot with a Sony NEX-5N + SpeedBooster, and with a Leitz Summilux 50mm f/1.4, on a MagicRig.
Almost entirely at ISO 1600, with tungsten WB and aperture ranging from f/1.4 to f/2.8 (equivalent to f/1.0 and f/2.0 without the SpeedBooster).
The image is basically straight off the camera, except: I had to apply some curves to DARKEN all the shots! After seeing the clips in the PC, I think I could easily have shot this at ISO 800 and f/2.0-2.8 (equivalent to f/1.4-2.0 without the speedbooster). I had to shoot the stage at ISO 200.

So, get a fast lens, and you're done. On an APS-C camera, that would probably be a 35mm f/1.4, I'd go for the sigma or the samyang. No need for super-high ISO.
 
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