little bobby
Well-known member
That's pretty sweet Mac. How is the tension created at the pivot point of the rod block and the aluminum bracket?
Edelkrone or Westside AV EVF holder
- Thread starter Matthew B
- Start date
That is so simple it's embarrassing - a 1/4" hole drilled in both pieces (handle plate and center of the rod block), countersink the plate on the camera side.
Pass a 1" (depending on the thickness of the rod block at the center) flathead bolt out through the camera plate.
Countersink the other piece (rod block) on the side facing the camera.
Thread a nylon finish washer (smaller than 1/4" ID), flat side in, onto the camera piece so that the shoulder of the washer faces out and fits into the countersink of the rod block - it doesn't have to be a perfect fit, you're creating a "bearing" surface.
Place two 1/4" nylon washers on the bolt coming through the rod block. Now you've created two nylon surfaces for the EVF rod block to swivel on. Add a steel washer.
Tighten a 1/4" nylock nut against the washers until the tension feels right (you may have to tighten or loosen when the weight of the EVF is added)... And you have smoothly rotating EVF. I've had mine like this for nearly a year and it has never needed tweaking.
Pass a 1" (depending on the thickness of the rod block at the center) flathead bolt out through the camera plate.
Countersink the other piece (rod block) on the side facing the camera.
Thread a nylon finish washer (smaller than 1/4" ID), flat side in, onto the camera piece so that the shoulder of the washer faces out and fits into the countersink of the rod block - it doesn't have to be a perfect fit, you're creating a "bearing" surface.
Place two 1/4" nylon washers on the bolt coming through the rod block. Now you've created two nylon surfaces for the EVF rod block to swivel on. Add a steel washer.
Tighten a 1/4" nylock nut against the washers until the tension feels right (you may have to tighten or loosen when the weight of the EVF is added)... And you have smoothly rotating EVF. I've had mine like this for nearly a year and it has never needed tweaking.
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little bobby
Well-known member
I'll try to draw a rough schematic later today, but it's pretty basic (embarrassing, as I said, because I have a close friend that's an artist with stainless steel and a master machinist, so I have to hide this stuff from him)...
However, except for the rod blocks and rods, it's all available at any decent hardware store... The only tools needed are a 1/4" drill, bits, hacksaw with medium blade for cutting aluminum, files, center punch (or hard nail), 8-32 tap & tap wrench (for mounting the block to the EVF plate), screw driver, 3/8" open end/box wrench (or any adjustable spanner) and a can of Krylon Fusion flat black. More later.
FYI: Out of curiosity I ordered two rod blockas and a pair of black 12" 15mm rods off of the Amazon page - total cost, $36! However, the blocks are different than the ones pictured, they have a cinching knob in the center, which menas that you can't drill the center for mounting on the camera plate - This means it needs to be mounted to a separate plate, which moves the center of the pivot about a half inch forward. This isn't a bad thing because it means you can use off-the-shelf 4" rods.
The big "however" though is the rods, and it's bad news. They're black powder coated, not anodized, so they don't slide smoothly, in fact they're so tight it's necessary to sand them to bare metal, and since they're made of cheap aluminum, they look pretty crumby - I'd avoid those.
I'm still working on a cartoon version of a schematic.
The big "however" though is the rods, and it's bad news. They're black powder coated, not anodized, so they don't slide smoothly, in fact they're so tight it's necessary to sand them to bare metal, and since they're made of cheap aluminum, they look pretty crumby - I'd avoid those.
I'm still working on a cartoon version of a schematic.
Okay, I drew this in about 5 minutes and it's as simplictic as it gets... Details will be different for other finders and personal preferences, but this is a starting point.. If you can figure out my scrawl, you can see it's pretty darn simple... Oh, you will need allen wrenches - and the countersinking isn't necessary, just makes a cleaner look.. you could use a nylon spacer on the camera plate instead of a finish washer. Have fun, and don't blame me if you don't like it...
Here's something that frustrates me relevant to this thread... I, and most people, can come up with a solution for mounting an EVF on this, or any other camera - whether home built or from one of these suppliers. But the major weakness is having to use off-the-shelf HDMI cables that are usually not the right length, or are so rigid that they are difficult to manage.
With all the EVFs out there now, and the apparent need for them, why are there not camera dedicated (instead of home theater system) cables available? I end up using jerry-rigged bits and pieces - angle adapters (so the cable doesn't stick out the back), multiple short cables (to get the length right), etc. It may not be a huge market, but a high quality 15 inch or so flexable cable with built-in snug fitting rotating ends would be much appreciated.
In fact, after much searching, I did find one with a straight mini HDMI on one end and a really nice rotating standard male HDMI on the other. It works great for the Cineroid, but I can't fing anything similar with standard HDMI on bothy ends.
With all the EVFs out there now, and the apparent need for them, why are there not camera dedicated (instead of home theater system) cables available? I end up using jerry-rigged bits and pieces - angle adapters (so the cable doesn't stick out the back), multiple short cables (to get the length right), etc. It may not be a huge market, but a high quality 15 inch or so flexable cable with built-in snug fitting rotating ends would be much appreciated.
In fact, after much searching, I did find one with a straight mini HDMI on one end and a really nice rotating standard male HDMI on the other. It works great for the Cineroid, but I can't fing anything similar with standard HDMI on bothy ends.
Sony figured it out
http://store.sony.com/p/HDMI-Cable-3-Feet/en/p/DLCHE10S
Short, durable, secure fitting connector ends, thin flexible cable, good length from af100 rear to evf position, not too expensive, and commonly available (got mine at Wal Mart).
I'm with you on thick, rigid, and all-too-fragile HDMI cables being absolute crap for camera use.
http://store.sony.com/p/HDMI-Cable-3-Feet/en/p/DLCHE10S
Short, durable, secure fitting connector ends, thin flexible cable, good length from af100 rear to evf position, not too expensive, and commonly available (got mine at Wal Mart).
I'm with you on thick, rigid, and all-too-fragile HDMI cables being absolute crap for camera use.
Erik Naso
Veteran
I have the PNY super thin HDMI cable and its long at 16 feet but its perfect for connecting my DP6 and handing the it to the director. Now they don't hover over e and the cable is light.
http://eriknaso.com/2012/07/07/super-thin-hdmi-cables-pny-rocketfish/
The rocketfish is shorter at 5 feet for on camera connection. I coil it up and it stays out of the way. Again not stiff and heavy.
I like these a lot and it seems more are available now than a few months ago so I'm sure shorter versions are going to become more common. Now if we can get these with locking tip.
http://eriknaso.com/2012/07/07/super-thin-hdmi-cables-pny-rocketfish/
The rocketfish is shorter at 5 feet for on camera connection. I coil it up and it stays out of the way. Again not stiff and heavy.
I like these a lot and it seems more are available now than a few months ago so I'm sure shorter versions are going to become more common. Now if we can get these with locking tip.
How about these;
Has a 0.5 lenght http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/0.5m-HDMI-Cable-c10/?gclid=CPfk3-bt1rQCFe7MtAodohwATg
Has a 0.3 length but looks cheap http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/short-hdmi-cable-0.3m.html
I'm told Apples HDMI are good too, pretty thin.
I wish the Sony suggestion could be shorter, looks perfect
Has a 0.5 lenght http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/0.5m-HDMI-Cable-c10/?gclid=CPfk3-bt1rQCFe7MtAodohwATg
Has a 0.3 length but looks cheap http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/short-hdmi-cable-0.3m.html
I'm told Apples HDMI are good too, pretty thin.
I wish the Sony suggestion could be shorter, looks perfect
The cables uk ones are great. I have a 1 metre angled both ends:
http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/1m-HDMI-Cable_Double-Right-Angle-p369.html
Sits in perfectly on the back of the AF and the side of the Zacuto EVF without fouling anything.
Ben
http://www.cablesuk.co.uk/1m-HDMI-Cable_Double-Right-Angle-p369.html
Sits in perfectly on the back of the AF and the side of the Zacuto EVF without fouling anything.
Ben
groveChuck
U-matic Member
Why so short, Erik??? Some directors I know would get a 50 ft cable!!! :evil:
I like that cable, thanks! :thumbsup:
Interestingly I have almost every one of those cables (except for the 5 and 16 footer). All of these cables work okay in combination with angle adapters (which I'm told should be kept to a minimum). However, I've had two of the inexpensive light weight cables fail during shoots, not good - and the heavier cables are so stiff that they put undo stress on the HDMI ports, particularly on the Z-Finder Pro - also not good. The best cable I have is the 1.5' mini I found that fits the Cineroid, because it is light, very flexable, snaps securly into the EVF, and has a very nice rotating std HDMI that also fits snuggly into the camera. That one cable cost over $40, but it has never failed.
The heavier cables for the Z-Finder, sticking out away from the camera, are prone to catching on things like doorknobs, so I try to zip-tie them close to the handle. But then, if a cable fails, I need to cut the zip-ties in order to replace them.
What I'd like to see is a high quality hard-molded cable custom designed to run up that back of the camera, turn forward and terminate in a female end under the microphone. Then a very short (like 4-6", maybe even coiled) flexible cable could run seperately to the finder. I have asked several elecronic repairmen in the area if it might be possible to build me one, price no object, but so far no luck.
Almost all of the EVFs on the market come with HDMI cables, but they're all "universal", seemingly for DSLRs and virtually useless on the AF100 or the Sonys (which are somewhat similar in configuration). Hopefull someone out there will offer something. Of course soon they'll all require SDI, so it's not likely to happen. At least SDI cables are easier to make, but unfortunately I have three EVFs now and really don't want to buy another one (although the Cineroid Retina looks nice.. hmmm).
The heavier cables for the Z-Finder, sticking out away from the camera, are prone to catching on things like doorknobs, so I try to zip-tie them close to the handle. But then, if a cable fails, I need to cut the zip-ties in order to replace them.
What I'd like to see is a high quality hard-molded cable custom designed to run up that back of the camera, turn forward and terminate in a female end under the microphone. Then a very short (like 4-6", maybe even coiled) flexible cable could run seperately to the finder. I have asked several elecronic repairmen in the area if it might be possible to build me one, price no object, but so far no luck.
Almost all of the EVFs on the market come with HDMI cables, but they're all "universal", seemingly for DSLRs and virtually useless on the AF100 or the Sonys (which are somewhat similar in configuration). Hopefull someone out there will offer something. Of course soon they'll all require SDI, so it's not likely to happen. At least SDI cables are easier to make, but unfortunately I have three EVFs now and really don't want to buy another one (although the Cineroid Retina looks nice.. hmmm).