ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I hope this hasn't been covered, please forgive me if I missed it. . .
I came up with a couple of improvements for the rail I wanted to share.
The first has to do with mounting the rubber boat bumpers to the rail. The original poster drilled from the top and used JB weld. I mounted a t-nut on the bottom of the block, using only the rubber to hold it in place, and it works wonderfully.
Here's what you need:
- Power Drill
- 1" drill bit (size based on outside T-Nut diameter)
- 3/8" drill bit
- 1 - 3/8" t-nut for each block you want to mount (My rail is 1450mm with a 20lb camera so I have 3)
- 1 - 3/8" x 3" hex bolt for each block
Procedure:
1. Find center of rubber block on bottom and mark it.
2. Using the 1" drill bit drill a hole about 3/4" deep. (you can use tape to mark depth on the drill bit)
3. Using the 3/8" drill bit put it in the center of the 1" hole and drill the rest of the way through. Be careful to stay straight on both of these holes. If you widen them out, the T-nut won't be held snug by the rubber and may fall out!
4. Turn the block over, using the 3/8" drill bit widen out the hole at the top, being careful not to widen it too deep. You want the bolt to slide in and out easily, but you want the t-nut to be held firmly in place.
5. Install the T-nut by by driving it straight into the hole on the bottom. I used a deep well socket that was about 1" outer diameter to apply even pressure downward. This is important to keep the t-nut from falling out years down the road when it's not attached.
6. Push your bolt in, and screw it down. A little oil will help it catch the threads the first time. Take the bolt back out.
7. Optional: I drilled out one of the existing holes with the 3/8" drill bit, but you can do it however you like. Drill a new hole or whatever. A threaded bolt will require a hex nut that has thread all the way tot he top though!
8. Install your rail without tools by simply holding the hex nut with your fingers while turning the rubber block. Mounting the rail this way will let you pull it as tight as you want because it's grabbing from the bottom. You can see the rail marks in the picture where it really pulls the rail into the rubber and makes a nice secure connection that can be added/removed in the field without tools.
Enjoy your slider. Thanks to the community here that made this such a great project. I hope this was helpful.
The second idea has to do with mounting. I ordered 2 carriages. I think it was an extra 50 bucks. One I mounted a fluid head directly on the carriage (bogen 3063), and the other I'm mounting a Euro/Elemac mount. I have a dolly with an elemac post, and this will let me quickly switch between the dolly and the slider without having 2 separate 100mm high hat standoffs to lug around. There's a guy on ebay who sold them for ~50 bucks. He's on DVX here, but I haven't seen him lately.
Okay, that's it for me, here are some pics to help with the instructions:
...and if you're looking for more flexibility, there's always the ZazaSlider Feet!
(although I used a couple of blocks of wood for the first year I had the slider...)