DIY IndieSlider...

ZazaCast said:
I can tell you I'm 99.9% sure you don't have to worry about the rail flexing, even at 1500mm... the 16-60mm is TOUGH stuff! Be sure to sandbag good though and use a solid tripod.

Oh... and get the feet... you'll love them!:happy:
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Gonna be using it with the manfrotto 028b legs, do you think that 1800-2000 is a stretch for flex or is that just a stupid length for a slider? Ive never had a slider but 1000 seems like it would be kinda short. aside from the tipping over and the possible flex to I open myself up to other big problems (besides fitting it in my location) for going larger?

If I planned on going a little longer and possibly putting a 300 or 500 on it later is the 150mm (or larger) carriage a better choice or even the fatter rail? I dont wann have to drill the rail if I dont have to and I rad about the twin holes on the bigger rails.
 
N635DC said:
Gonna be using it with the manfrotto 028b legs, do you think that 1800-2000 is a stretch for flex or is that just a stupid length for a slider? Ive never had a slider but 1000 seems like it would be kinda short. aside from the tipping over and the possible flex to I open myself up to other big problems (besides fitting it in my location) for going larger?

If I planned on going a little longer and possibly putting a 300 or 500 on it later is the 150mm (or larger) carriage a better choice or even the fatter rail? I dont wann have to drill the rail if I dont have to and I rad about the twin holes on the bigger rails.
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Personally... I think anything over 1500mm is too much and defeats the purpose of a slider. If I need anything longer, I use a dolly.

That tripod should be find (holds up to 25lbs.) for the 150...but you'd need more beef for a 300.

You can always buy another carriage...actually, all you'd need is the longer plate (cheaper yet)!
 
I'm in, I'm gonna do the build when I get a chance in the next month or two. I'll let everyone know how it turns out, my end stop solution is going to be zaza feet. can I make a suggestion for them?

Perhaps add 1/2"-3/4" rubber washer type things in-between the rail and the feet to help it to a more gentle stop compared to stopping cold against the aluminum.
 
Sure, you can put anything you want in there. Why you'd want to bang against the end is beyond me, but there are rubber or felt washers, rubber bumpers...all kinds of things you can use. Customizing to your own purpose is the DIY key! :beer:
 
ZazaCast said:
Sure, you can put anything you want in there. Why you'd want to bang against the end is beyond me, but there are rubber or felt washers, rubber bumpers...all kinds of things you can use. Customizing to your own purpose is the DIY key! :beer:
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well not for intentionally bumping up against the end but figured it would lessen the suck (vibration) if and when it does meet the end stop of the slider.
 
N635DC said:
well not for intentionally bumping up against the end but figured it would lessen the suck (vibration) if and when it does meet the end stop of the slider.
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Your slider is going to be so long, you're going to need a pitstop in the middle too! LOL! :happy:

Once you get one and get the feel for it, you'll see. The slides are real slow & if you're going that fast, even if you hit rubber, you're going to bounce the camera.
 
Yea, I'll probably just go with 1500mm. I don't want to discover (later) that I would like to have it be a little longer, so I figure that I'll just knock it out now. Since its going to be a little longer I'll probably just go with a 150mm carriage and be done with it. In the long run this should be a little more stable If something bigger goes on it at some point. I'm going to use the 4" riser from filmtools to get the tripod up and off a little bit.


A pitstop? LOL, well damn.
 
Marloon said:
hey guys!



I'd like to be able to use a hand crank to help with dolly movements (just like the pocket dolly), is there a DIY for that as well?


Thanks! I'll check back on this thread when i wake up. I'm so glad i found this thread.
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I'm currently working on a way to add one of these. Im still in the planning stages but I've almost got it figured out. I'll keep everyone posted.
 
I'm pretty unhappy with the experience of trying to make my own glidetrack.... Have found that drilling and tapping holes actually requires relatively precision equipment. My local car garage had my rail and carriage for a month, and just gave it back to me incomplete and broken. The carriage doesn't glide smoothly down the rail anymore - there's too much friction. Any advice?
 
dominichicks said:
I'm pretty unhappy with the experience of trying to make my own glidetrack.... Have found that drilling and tapping holes actually requires relatively precision equipment. My local car garage had my rail and carriage for a month, and just gave it back to me incomplete and broken. The carriage doesn't glide smoothly down the rail anymore - there's too much friction. Any advice?
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Really? :shocked:

First, do not take your car to that shop!:happy:

Drilling and tapping a hole is very easy and only requires a $5.00 T-wrench and a $5.00 Tap (which includes the drill bit too). Search "Tapping a hole" (I know that just doesn't sound right) on YouTube, you'll see, it really easy.

Now, as far as the carriage not sliding smooth. I hope it's just because they knocked it out of alignment. Make sure there's no damage to the rail itself, then make sure the Drylin bearings are in the glide blocks. Next, go through the alignment process:

This is OFFICIAL igus procedure for "aligning" the carriage.
It only needs to be done once.

They say

1. Loosen all carriage bolts - (don't remove - just loosen a few turns)
2. slide carriage back and forth to allow bearings to align themselves)
3. (tech actually recommended "tapping" the center of the carriage to "bump" the bearings into place)
4. With downward pressure on carriage tighten the bolts again a few turns at a time (alternating them - i.e. do NOT crank one down and then do the other ones)

Let me know how you make out....
 
N635DC said:
I'm currently working on a way to add one of these. Im still in the planning stages but I've almost got it figured out. I'll keep everyone posted.
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I've looked at this for quite awhile now and figure if you really need a crank with a belt drive... buy the Kessler.
The parts & effort involved would cost more then just buying it ready to go. IMHO

That said, I can't wait to see what you come up with.... there's always a way!
 
ZazaCast said:
I've looked at this for quite awhile now and figure if you really need a crank with a belt drive... buy the Kessler.
The parts & effort involved would cost more then just buying it ready to go. IMHO

That said, I can't wait to see what you come up with.... there's always a way!
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It's gonna be a while, I ordered today and was told a 4-6 week lead time. I hope when this comes in that i wont get flex on the ends at this length. I did decide to go with the 1500mm rail and a 150mm carriage for added stability. having a little bit of a wider base is never wrong. I figured better to go a little bigger and not need it than wish you had and then cant. The only thing I can figure is if you wanna do something eerie down a hallway youll need a door or to put it at an angle because it wont fit standard hallways placed stright wide.

About the crank - I wasent planning on a belt drive but rather a hand crank; but that is food for thought!

I only figured I would give it a shot since I was an automation engineer back in the day, that's basically a glorified way of saying I looked at blueprints, then used the specs to program robotics, automated mills, punch presses, lathes & automatic conveyors all day long. Think of a car assembly line where the bodies get welded; only for manfacturing smaller parts; and not just welding. That being said I have a fair amount of mechanical engineering experience and a grainger catalog handy. We'll see what happens.

Disclaimer- I make no promises but I will do my best to come up with something cheap and functional. So far the parts list cost is less than taking the fam to Mcdonalds for some fatty, mediocre food prepared by an overpaid zit infested teen.
 
^ you should take a peek at the Kessler version first, it makes the most sense to me.
Carriage is attached to belt, hand crank moves belt in the direction of the crank. Keep us posted!
 
Hi newbie here, in EU BTW.
i 'm about to place the order tonight and i was wondering what would be my best bet for a sony hvr-fx1 with wideangle (and maybe a mattebox ). Thought about 1 meter long. I went to the store with pictures but they couldn't figure it out what to use at the end of the track.
I0m scared to make damages drilling and taping so it's time to bring it to somebody who does this stuff daily
Other pieces you suggest to use wth my fx1?
Thx a lot ZAZA for sharing your knowledge all around the world!
 
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Have you checked for non-hole rails version? I purchased 16mm and 10mm rails w/o holes and it came less than a week but for the hole version, the wait time is about 6weeks.
N635DC said:
It's gonna be a while, I ordered today and was told a 4-6 week lead time. I hope when this comes in that i wont get flex on the ends at this length. I did decide to go with the 1500mm rail and a 150mm carriage for added stability. having a little bit of a wider base is never wrong. I figured better to go a little bigger and not need it than wish you had and then cant. The only thing I can figure is if you wanna do something eerie down a hallway youll need a door or to put it at an angle because it wont fit standard hallways placed stright wide.

....
Click to expand...
 
Steve Arenam said:
Hi newbie here, in EU BTW.
i 'm about to place the order tonight and i was wondering what would be my best bet for a sony hvr-fx1 with wideangle (and maybe a mattebox ). Thought about 1 meter long. I went to the store with pictures but they couldn't figure it out what to use at the end of the track.
I0m scared to make damages drilling and taping so it's time to bring it to somebody who does this stuff daily
Other pieces you suggest to use wth my fx1?
Thx a lot ZAZA for sharing your knowledge all around the world!
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve...and welcome to the DVXuser community...you're going to like it here!:thumbsup:
 
I'm not in a huge rush for it , I don't feel like having to drill it only to have my bit walk a little and **** up the new rail with lopsided holes. I'll just wait, I don't have a drill press so waiting is the better option.
 
Newb here who has been doing a lot of research on this slider and had decided to take the plunge. I just tried to order though and the sales rep at 888-803-1895 stated that they were out of both the WS-16-60 and WS-16-60S rails. She quoted a wait of 4-6 weeks, but that I should order because she couldn't guarantee that they would actually be in stock if I called back in 4-6 weeks. I was hoping to shoot with this in two weeks. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make this happen sooner rather than later? Thanks to all those who came up with this creative solution!
 
Thanks for your help... I was warned off from tapping/threading holes myself as everybody says you need clamps etc to get a straight hole?

Looks like they have knocked the carriage out of alignment.... I don't seem to have any Drylin bearings in my glide blocks - never did?... Are these little bearings that go through the other holes next to the bolts? Without them the alignment is screwed every time I tighten up the bolts. Where can I get hold of some bearings?

Dom
 
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