DIY IndieSlider...

grimepoch said:
Okay, apparently I am blind today and TOTALLY missed that you had put that at the end of your message. I had read it earlier as well, but missed you had put that in there! I even further missed you had quoted YOUR saying of it as well.

Maybe I should try and get MORE sleep tonight :)
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LMAO! Been there, done that TOO much!!!
 
v00d0o said:
Has anyone done the WS-10-40 shuttle size?
I'd love to see pictures and see if it works well with small camcorders.
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Smaller rail & carriage will work fine...as far as pictures...they're in here somewhere. Looks just like the 16-60...only smaller! :grin:
 
The 1/4" hole in the rail would be to attache a quick release plate and it should be solid from what I can see of the tripod you're using. If you don't think it is, drill a second hole in the quick release plate and the rail so you have two screws holding the plate on.

If you're really looking for crane/jib moves...I'd still recommend getting a crane or jib. You're very limited in what you can do with a slider rigged as a jib IMHO.
 
ZazaCast said:
If you're really looking for crane/jib moves...I'd still recommend getting a crane or jib. You're very limited in what you can do with a slider rigged as a jib IMHO.
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I agree with Zaza. My original thought was to be able to do crane/jib moves with the slider, but after some experimentation, it simply isn't worth the trouble or the risk. I found myself putting the camera in compromising situations to get a shot that truly didn't add anything to the story or visual appeal. A slider is a slider is a slider.
 
Well but it looks very cool what he does in that clip
maybe if I only want to mount it at the front?

Generally I´m thinking about buying the Velbon DV7000 where I can take the head of and then have a 3/8" thread on both or use the Bilora 936 where you can´t take the head of and buy a second head? Do you know which one is more stable the Velbon or the Bilora because I think the slider is pretty heavy?
 
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Velbon head alternative? Video instructions?

Velbon head alternative? Video instructions?

Hi guys,

I'm a Sony EX1 owner and super excited to get my slider. I ordered my Igus parts here in Denmark last week (from www.igus.dk). They'll arrive the day before I have a shoot, so I want to get everything else ready.

After spending hours reading what I could on the Zaza Slider, I still have many doubts. Sorry if this is covered elsewhere in this thread.

  1. Are there any video tutorials explaining the parts and assembly?
  2. Any photo tutorials?
  3. "a 3/8" 16 thread tap (and a tap handle), a 5/16 metal drill bit & a 3/8" hex head bolt" - I'm really lost at this handyman terminology. Are there any photos of these parts? I don't even know what to ask my local supply shop for.
  4. I already have a Velbon tripod and would love to use the recommended "Velbon PH-368 Vel-Flo 9 Mini-Pro 2-Way Panhead". Unfortunately I can't find a reliable shop that can get it to me before the shoot. What should I look for in a head? Will something like the Velbon FHD-51Q 3-Way Fluid Pan Head work?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

alphalx said:
... the Velbon DV7000 where I can take the head of and ...
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Is this true - can you take the head off the DV7000? In that case it seems like the quickest and cheapest solution for me.

Thanks in advance :)
J.R.
 
depnds on your equipment and skil but the fastest and easiest way to do is:

get a tripod with head and quickplate
manage to fix the quickplate under the rail (2 or 4 short screws,nuts and bolts should be ok)
you can just superglue the plate under the rail, then drill 4 holes across the assembly.

then manage to get the your spare head fixed on the charriot.
If you head come with a bowl, you can probably unscrew it, and use the
holes and screws to fix it on the chariot.
if your head come with a flat bottom , then just fix it the way you can.
Take care the way you put the plate under the rail (orientation), one direction will allow you to tilt the head and get the rail into a slope. if you don't know, drill the hole on the corners of a square, so you can turn the rail at any time.
That could be useful for some.

If you do not want to fiddle with stange screw formats as used in video/photography, just drill everything at your will and use standard screws.

Since i have to transport this in the field, i used another strategy.
I purchased a manfrotto adapter (325N) and fix it on the chariot.
So i just need to dismount the head from my tripod and mount it on the slider.
then to fix the rail on the remaining legs, i used the manfrotto 520Ball.
I loose the benefit to get the first head to setup the rail leveling, but i can live with.


see all parts here http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://harrysproshop.com/Tripods/video_head/500BALL.jpg&imgrefurl=http://harrysproshop.com/Tripods/video_head/video_head.html&usg=__WbCyieCI5bw_4zc-4mkqa8MYmGc=&h=253&w=300&sz=9&hl=en&start=10&um=1&tbnid=RwP9UY_JGzgvoM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=116&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmafrotto%2Bball%2Badapter%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Dactive%26um%3D1
 
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I am still waiting on my parts from Igus, they aren't coming in to them till Feb 2nd, but I have the DV7000 and yes, the head comes off. I like it a lot for the price and plan on using it with the slider.
 
I'm about to place my order but i'm on the "rail" on which to get, the 10mm or the 16mm.

I mainly do weddings and shoot with a 5d but I'd like to be able to shoot with the 5d and 70-200 2.8 without sticking. I obviously want the HKA lock and might go with a 32" version instead of the 39" so I don't cut someones head off. I'm using a 701hdv and use a tripod with wheels that lock down. pretty heavy duty.

So go with the Wk10-40-10-1 or the 16mm version and haul that bad boy around.

Thanks everyone especially zaza and yes I just read 138 pages worth of posts!
 
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So I am still waiting for my 16mm system to come in, as it is backordered, but I am using a 7D. I decided to go with the slightly wider system so it would be more flexible in the future no matter what camera I use. BUT, that said, I too still worry about the weight distribution with a big lens on the front of my 7D. So, what I did was mount my 7D on a rail system with a slidable tripod mount on the bottom. This way, if I need to shift the center of gravity for the current lens, it is pretty easy. This was the simplest solution I could think of going forward.
 
enginyr said:
I'm about to place my order but i'm on the "rail" on which to get, the 10mm or the 16mm.

I mainly do weddings and shoot with a 5d but I'd like to be able to shoot with the 5d and 70-200 2.8 without sticking. I obviously want the HKA lock and might go with a 32" version instead of the 39" so I don't cut someones head off. I'm using a 701hdv and use a tripod with wheels that lock down. pretty heavy duty.

So go with the Wk10-40-10-1 or the 16mm version and haul that bad boy around.

Thanks everyone especially zaza and yes I just ready 138 pages worth of posts!
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Wow... thanks... that's a LOT of reading. I would recommend going with the original 16mm version. It's not that heavy, but is wider and less likely to bind when you have a lot of lens out front.

Plus... you can always buy a shorter piece of rail (I like 700mm) for travel or tight spaces. (and I have a few surprizes coming down the pipe in about 3 weeks that will be great for you.)

I don't believe the carriage brake is available for the 10mm either (could be wrong), but you will need to get a 150mm carriage if you buy the brake. Again, having one and making my own modification for braking/locking the carriage... I like my mod best. It's easy and cheap and works like a charm without having to get a 150mm carriage.
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showpost.php?p=1853241&postcount=1263
 
Yes you can get the hka in a 10mm.

The problem with your Teflon screw is you won't have enough force to actually lock the slider in place especially if its on your shoulder along with most likely stripping the screw because you'll always be trying to play with the tension. (great for resistance though). I need a 100% locking solution since I want to keep in on the tripod, then go to the shoulder in a minute.

Here is a rough idea.

Here is another option for $8.

peak_brassscrews_lg.jpg
 

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enginyr said:
Yes you can get the hka in a 10mm.

The problem with your Teflon screw is you won't have enough force to actually lock the slider in place especially if its on your shoulder along with most likely stripping the screw because you'll always be trying to play with the tension.
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Nope... this isn't true. I can lock the carriage in place with a camera on it and it doesn't budge a millimeter! You can use any kind of screw you'd like. I chose durlyn because it's actually pushing against the outerside of the bearing and I didn't want to damage it. I like the screw you found with the insert, I'm sure that will work too.
 
Martin Koch said:
See post #336
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Just ordered the smaller one today. ($96 shippped) Since I'm only sliding a 7D I only needed the smaller version. The original ZaZa slider with the holes is on back order for 4 to 6 weeks and the wait list is a month at least. That is what I was told today. I asked the sales person how many of these she has sold and she laughed and told me that they could not get them produced fast enough, All thanks to ZaZa! they do have the original slider WITHOUT the holes that is available for delivery though.
 
enginyr said:
lets have small preview of your new invention zaza. What do you think of my over the shoulder rig
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You'll see mine soon enough...hang in there. I think yours will work, but it might be tipsy?

Richard J. Johnson said:
Just ordered the smaller one today. ($96 shippped) Since I'm only sliding a 7D I only needed the smaller version. The original ZaZa slider with the holes is on back order for 4 to 6 weeks and the wait list is a month at least. That is what I was told today. I asked the sales person how many of these she has sold and she laughed and told me that they could not get them produced fast enough, All thanks to ZaZa! they do have the original slider WITHOUT the holes that is available for delivery though.
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Well... it's about time! Good for you Richard. I know, I shot myself in the foot...I could have been selling this stuff to all you guys! :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)
 
DIY Shooter handles?

DIY Shooter handles?

Thinking about putting some handles on my slider so I can turn it into a shooter.

I found this site:
http://grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=quick lever clamp

The G7324 Quick Clamp Lever - 1/4" - 20, Male looks like the same handle they use on the glidetrack shooter.

I am thinking of buying that one or the 3/8" quick clamp lever (male).

Not having seen the shooter in person I have no idea if they are using long handles ore "regular" length, 1/4" or 3/8"... can anyone confirm?
 
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