ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Keep in mind, these are not even an 1 1/2" tall and 4" wide. Won't offer much stability if you're planning on using the slider on the floor.
DIY IndieSlider...
- Thread starter ZazaCast
- Start date
Keep in mind, these are not even an 1 1/2" tall and 4" wide. Won't offer much stability if you're planning on using the slider on the floor.
mjaldridge
Member
No they could not be reversed and used this way. I assumed from all the photos on this post that the blocks would be used as end stops.
you guys might want to check this out,its way cheaper than glidetrack.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170431301600&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT based in india,but use IGUS as well
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
This has been brought up many times....it is NOT igus hardware. Proceed at your own risk.
Black_Messiah
New member
Latest project with my zazaslider
Latest project with my zazaslider
Shot this PSA a couple months ago, now it's out in the world in various formats (tv, dvd, etc).
The 'slider worked flawlessly, my DP was green with envy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsClzDgdRdI
Latest project with my zazaslider
Shot this PSA a couple months ago, now it's out in the world in various formats (tv, dvd, etc).
The 'slider worked flawlessly, my DP was green with envy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsClzDgdRdI
snapzoom bob
New member
Just called in my order for the famed ZaZa slider, after reading much of this post. Guess what? 4-6 wait time for each piece! As soon as I gave the rep the part #'s, she told me of the wait and said they have been selling this combo like wildfire to TV/Film geeks the world over. Congrats, ZaZa! You've definitely started something pretty huge here.
adam j. richman
Well-known member
It's a really strange little cult we've managed to build... haha 
i think to make it seamless it should be easy.
since the bearing is a tube, the contact surface is very big/long , so you just need to make the end of each tube angled (bezel ?) so it is a bit smaller (half milimeter). So the bearing can pass from one tube to another without a glitch.
you make the rail together simply with a plate under/inside the rail.
If you rail has holes at end of tube, you can put some aluminium pin inside to make the join even stronger/stable.
If you really get the DiY spirit, you can cut 2" of the rail and make a transition piece with it. You just need to make the positive pin on each and of that part (then 4 pins) , add the plate to fix the other rails.
since the bearing is a tube, the contact surface is very big/long , so you just need to make the end of each tube angled (bezel ?) so it is a bit smaller (half milimeter). So the bearing can pass from one tube to another without a glitch.
you make the rail together simply with a plate under/inside the rail.
If you rail has holes at end of tube, you can put some aluminium pin inside to make the join even stronger/stable.
If you really get the DiY spirit, you can cut 2" of the rail and make a transition piece with it. You just need to make the positive pin on each and of that part (then 4 pins) , add the plate to fix the other rails.
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Zacatac
Well-known member
Here's a new video I shot all on the Zaza Slider, still love it, from HV20 to HMC150 and now to the Canon 7D, it can handle them all
http://vimeo.com/8729518
http://vimeo.com/8729518
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Here's a new video I shot all on the Zaza Slider, still love it, from HV20 to HMC150 and now to the Canon 7D, it can handle them all
http://vimeo.com/8729518
Nice! I got the chills just watching...:thumbsup:
Zacatac
Well-known member
thanks zaza, oh it was so much fun to actually enjoy sliding the shots, as a movement fan, I hated editing and shooting static shots...
My only wish now, is to have a free floating slider, so a push could get it moving down the tracks, sorta the way the Cinevate one floats, pushing it and pulling it, is a little bumpy for my shaky hands
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
O.K., I don't know if I can explain this properly...but here goes.
If I want an 'auto-slide', I adjust the legs on the tripod to get the rail on the angle that will cause the carriage to slide down it at the speed I'm looking for(doesn't take much of an angle)...then I mount the camera sideways on the fluid head. This inturn allows me to level the shot. Move the camera to one end, roll and release. It slides nice and smooth to the end of the rail (be sure you have endstops on the rail!!!).
Now, this doesn't give you a perfect horizonal slide, it's a little up to down, but I find it's a very cool looking shot every now & again.:happy:
Hope that makes sense....
NOTE - you can also use a bungee cord for a smooth slide!
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Also, someone mentioned using a bungee cord to pull the sled, helps make the start/stops smoother. I am still waiting for mine to arrive but will be trying this.
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
rogar-Happy(DBG):
Zacatac
Well-known member
that does make sense... I've had the slider for about a year, but haven't really looked into my options, the bungiee cord looks like a good idear
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Haha, probably was! I am not about to go back through 136 pages of posts to find that out!
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Haha, probably was! I am not about to go back through 136 pages of posts to find that out!
LOL... it was in the post right above yours....that was too funny!:happy:
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
Okay, apparently I am blind today and TOTALLY missed that you had put that at the end of your message. I had read it earlier as well, but missed you had put that in there! I even further missed you had quoted YOUR saying of it as well.
Maybe I should try and get MORE sleep tonight
Maybe I should try and get MORE sleep tonight