Gorgeous! :thumbup::beer::thumbup:
DIY IndieSlider...
- Thread starter ZazaCast
- Start date
Gorgeous! :thumbup::beer::thumbup:
Circular Reason
New member
k, got my parts... just curious... is anybody's rail inconsistent when it comes to sliding? My carriage slides smooth on on part, but then it gets tense on another. I tried all the recommended adjustments (loosening the bolts and retightening them) but then it just gets stuck somewhere else. not stuck, but slower, so that I am afraid I won't be able to do smooth pans. Should I call igus and get a different one? or is this just part of the way things are?
note: if I loosen all the bolts, and keep them lose, it runs smooth. but as soon as a tighten them, it becomes inconsistante, just in different spots, depending on what part of the track i tighten it on. thanks for the help.
note: if I loosen all the bolts, and keep them lose, it runs smooth. but as soon as a tighten them, it becomes inconsistante, just in different spots, depending on what part of the track i tighten it on. thanks for the help.
Richard Allen Crook
Well-known member
The standard size....about 3 feet
Richard Allen Crook
Well-known member
Definately sounds like it could be an irregualrity in the metal. I would try cleaning both the bracket and the rails with some windex then try it. I notice that if you handle particualar areas with greasy hands, after awhile there will be inconsistant tension. Has anyone tried applying a very very very small amount of lubricant to it, making the spots where your hands leave oil irrelevent?
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I agree...I've built a few of these and never had this problem. Can't hurt to check with igus. I don't think you have to (should) use any lubricant as the bearings are self-lubricating. I remember reading somewhere in this post that when contacted about this, vaseline (petroleum jelly) was what they suggested, if anything. Might also be worth a quick call to igus...
Zephyrnoid
Veteran
Zaza
Is there a detail shot of the tap into the rail for the tripod head? I've been using a two tripod solution for stability, but am about to follow your lead and center my support.I'm just worried about Steel bolt>aluminum thread = Fast Wear and thread stripping. Also, I assume a 3/8" connection vs 1/4-20 ?
Is there a detail shot of the tap into the rail for the tripod head? I've been using a two tripod solution for stability, but am about to follow your lead and center my support.I'm just worried about Steel bolt>aluminum thread = Fast Wear and thread stripping. Also, I assume a 3/8" connection vs 1/4-20 ?
Just another picture...for reference...
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I don't have a shot, but there's really nothing to see. Just take the 3/8" tap...and tap the center hole that's already there. I've had mine on & off various tripods at least 40 or 50 times and have never had a problem with with stripping or anything.
I'm thinking, if you're really worried, you could drill a new hole...just off center and tap that? If that strips, you can drill another on the other side! An inch off center wouldn't make much difference either way.
I'm thinking, if you're really worried, you could drill a new hole...just off center and tap that? If that strips, you can drill another on the other side! An inch off center wouldn't make much difference either way.
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mainstreetprod
Veteran
Two words: Lemon Pledge. A shot of that just before using and its smooth as silk.
Put a drop of Loctite on each bolt, then tighten just finger tight.
Put a drop of Loctite on each bolt, then tighten just finger tight.
Got mine!
Got mine!
Hi Folks,
Finally got my Igus parts, and was able to set it all up the last week of May. (Had help from my father in law, as I'm a clutz with tools
Here are some pics of my DIY setup.
I am using a very old, and very non-fluid tripod head (as my Libec H22 head will not screw onto the carriage. It has a 2 inch long bolt). I've actually used the dolly on the XL2 with that setup from the pics; but as you can imagine, it was very nerve wracking trying to dolly with that setup.
I'm thinking of buying a tripod head, maybe the 701HDV, but concerned if it will support the weight of the XL2.
BTW, much thanks to Zaza for all his work, and for letting us all know about it!
Best,
Got mine!
Hi Folks,
Finally got my Igus parts, and was able to set it all up the last week of May. (Had help from my father in law, as I'm a clutz with tools
Here are some pics of my DIY setup.
I am using a very old, and very non-fluid tripod head (as my Libec H22 head will not screw onto the carriage. It has a 2 inch long bolt). I've actually used the dolly on the XL2 with that setup from the pics; but as you can imagine, it was very nerve wracking trying to dolly with that setup.
I'm thinking of buying a tripod head, maybe the 701HDV, but concerned if it will support the weight of the XL2.
BTW, much thanks to Zaza for all his work, and for letting us all know about it!
Best,
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Interesting rig you have there! ... I just had a thought on your sticking problem. Perhaps it has something to do with how much weight you have forward of the center of the carriage? It would seem to me that this would cause an uneven pressure on the bearings...
To test, can you mount the camera directly on the head so it's centered and try it? I'd love to know what you come up with?
To test, can you mount the camera directly on the head so it's centered and try it? I'd love to know what you come up with?
Chris Light
Veteran
i thought the same thing initially, but i forgot to post something because i really liked the quality of the PHOTO of your rig haha!
I was about to order glidetrack SD, so i'm glad I found this thread
Is it possible to order that smaller rail that's used in SD model? If yes, is it cheaper (couldnt find info from the website)? I think this bigger model is unnecessary for 5D Mark II + external lcd. What do you think?
Is it possible to order that smaller rail that's used in SD model? If yes, is it cheaper (couldnt find info from the website)? I think this bigger model is unnecessary for 5D Mark II + external lcd. What do you think?
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
I was about to order glidetrack SD, so i'm glad I found this thread
Is it possible to order that smaller rail that's used in SD model? If yes, is it cheaper (couldnt find info from the website)? I think this bigger model is unnecessary for 5D Mark II + external lcd. What do you think?
Personally, I'd still go with the 60mm track width (2.5" wide between rails)...the next one down is 40mm (1.5" wide between rails). The 40mm is like the Glidetrack SD, the 60mm is like the Glidetrack HD.
If you want the 40mm, here are the part numbers for a 1000mm length (about 39")
Rail Part Number: WS-10-40 1000mm
Glide Block Part Number: WW-10-40-10
40mm is costing out at $96.20
60mm is costing out at $158.38
There's no reason the 40mm wouldn't handle the load of your rig....but a little wider track allows for a more stable rig, wider ride...and smoother slide.
That's my 2-cents. Best of luck, either way, you'r going to love the ZazaSlider! :beer:
J Davis
Veteran
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ZazaCast
Major Contributor
...I think "infamous" is more like it! :2vrolijk_08:
Yeah, a less front heavy setup is probably the key to smoother moves. I'll post some footage once we get something cut. This sub-$200 DIY device really increased the production value. Thanks ZaZa!
...anyone else feel like we need to do a testimonial based commercial now?
I can hear the cheesy piano music now...
...anyone else feel like we need to do a testimonial based commercial now?
I can hear the cheesy piano music now...
CineGang
Member
Hi Zaza,
I want to thank you for sharing this. It was a lot of fun building my ZazaSlider. I can't wait to use it this weekend on a music video using the Canon 5DMKII. Nothing fancy about my ZazaSlider. I thought about taking my kids Lego Mindstorm apart to do some robotics but in the end, I went for simplicity. The build is solid all the way. I also love that with this head I have, I can totally balance everything so it slides nicely and evenly. Thanks again.
Ronnie
PS: Some iPhone pics.
PS2: T-Slide = $900 LOL! ha ha ha ha ha http://www.t-jib.com/products2.asp
I want to thank you for sharing this. It was a lot of fun building my ZazaSlider. I can't wait to use it this weekend on a music video using the Canon 5DMKII. Nothing fancy about my ZazaSlider. I thought about taking my kids Lego Mindstorm apart to do some robotics but in the end, I went for simplicity. The build is solid all the way. I also love that with this head I have, I can totally balance everything so it slides nicely and evenly. Thanks again.
Ronnie
PS: Some iPhone pics.
PS2: T-Slide = $900 LOL! ha ha ha ha ha http://www.t-jib.com/products2.asp
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Duke M.
Veteran
I was a little more concerned about support on the ends of the rails, so I used some heavy duty light stands. Not those little 1/2" flimsy things, but some where the thinnest part is 1 1/4" thick. You can see the thin part of the light stand on the left.
I put the 1/4" stud through the existing holes on the ends, then I put 1/4" thumb knobs on the studs. This has the added effect of acting as stops so the sled can't go off the edge. No need to put anything else on the ends that way.
For my tripod I threaded the middle hole for 3/8-16, then I put the 3/8" stud in the tripod. (Most good ones have both sizes.)
On the sled I drilled the center for 5/16 and then tapped it for 3/8-16 and put in a 3/4" long x 3/8-16 cap screw. This is a Velbon PH-368 which B&H has on sale for $26 + shipping right now. It's a two axis fluid head. It's made of plastic but the build quality is better than expected.
Pledge does help.
Duke
I put the 1/4" stud through the existing holes on the ends, then I put 1/4" thumb knobs on the studs. This has the added effect of acting as stops so the sled can't go off the edge. No need to put anything else on the ends that way.
For my tripod I threaded the middle hole for 3/8-16, then I put the 3/8" stud in the tripod. (Most good ones have both sizes.)
On the sled I drilled the center for 5/16 and then tapped it for 3/8-16 and put in a 3/4" long x 3/8-16 cap screw. This is a Velbon PH-368 which B&H has on sale for $26 + shipping right now. It's a two axis fluid head. It's made of plastic but the build quality is better than expected.
Pledge does help.
Duke
