ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Take a look at the Kessler demo...you use your hand as weight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GOw7Jb-CtY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GOw7Jb-CtY&feature=related
DIY IndieSlider...
- Thread starter ZazaCast
- Start date
natxbrotha
Well-known member
I just ordered my parts!
I'm getting:
-WS-16-60 (rail with 16mm bearings) 1524mm long = 5ft ($157)
-WW-16-60-15HKA (150mm Glide block assembly which includes the friction clamp) ($104)
Bogen Bowl Adapter 325N = $75
Slalom Ski Bag = $30
TOTAL COST: $366
This does not include the cost of shipping.
You can only use the friction clamp on the 150mm glide block and bigger from what the tech guy told me because there is not enough room or something. Once I receive it and get it together I will post a photo of what it looks like.
Basically, I was intending to use the friction clamp as a lock off so I can do jib shots without worrying about the glide block sliding around. Now all I should have to worry about is the tilting/panning of the camera/jib.
I'm also going to get a slalom ski bag that is around 65" long that should hold the slider+bogen bowl adapter since the bag has a raised up portion for the ski bindings.
I'm getting:
-WS-16-60 (rail with 16mm bearings) 1524mm long = 5ft ($157)
-WW-16-60-15HKA (150mm Glide block assembly which includes the friction clamp) ($104)
Bogen Bowl Adapter 325N = $75
Slalom Ski Bag = $30
TOTAL COST: $366
This does not include the cost of shipping.
You can only use the friction clamp on the 150mm glide block and bigger from what the tech guy told me because there is not enough room or something. Once I receive it and get it together I will post a photo of what it looks like.
Basically, I was intending to use the friction clamp as a lock off so I can do jib shots without worrying about the glide block sliding around. Now all I should have to worry about is the tilting/panning of the camera/jib.
I'm also going to get a slalom ski bag that is around 65" long that should hold the slider+bogen bowl adapter since the bag has a raised up portion for the ski bindings.
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wow. i can't believe this thread is 89 pages long!
i should snap some fotos of my setup sometime, but thought some descriptive words might help others.
first of all, not sure if it has been mentioned in this insanely long thread, but Pledge furniture polish is ESSENTIAL for lubricating this slider!
i know some say they don't need any lubricant, but with my light weight hmc150 mounted i was getting very sticky/not smooth slides until i started spraying some Pledge on the rails. now it works perfectly!
i also got the 15cm carriage with the adjustable friction brake, but before the Pledge, couldn't even use it because the carriage barely moved without applying significant force.
as for mounting feet on the ends for ground-level slides, i bought a 2ft section of metal angle iron and cut it into 2 pieces. the stuff that is shaped as a 90 degree elbow rail with holes all along it. looks a lot like the rails most garage doors run on.
i tapped two of the pre-existing holes to pass the bolts that screw into the ends of the tapped rails. these metal feet work both as stoppers to keep the carriage from coming off as well as light-weight feet for table-top or ground-level placement.
you can then easily prop the slider up on other objects, or drop some sand bags over the feet for extra stability.
hope that is helpful and not redundant.
i should snap some fotos of my setup sometime, but thought some descriptive words might help others.
first of all, not sure if it has been mentioned in this insanely long thread, but Pledge furniture polish is ESSENTIAL for lubricating this slider!
i know some say they don't need any lubricant, but with my light weight hmc150 mounted i was getting very sticky/not smooth slides until i started spraying some Pledge on the rails. now it works perfectly!
i also got the 15cm carriage with the adjustable friction brake, but before the Pledge, couldn't even use it because the carriage barely moved without applying significant force.
as for mounting feet on the ends for ground-level slides, i bought a 2ft section of metal angle iron and cut it into 2 pieces. the stuff that is shaped as a 90 degree elbow rail with holes all along it. looks a lot like the rails most garage doors run on.
i tapped two of the pre-existing holes to pass the bolts that screw into the ends of the tapped rails. these metal feet work both as stoppers to keep the carriage from coming off as well as light-weight feet for table-top or ground-level placement.
you can then easily prop the slider up on other objects, or drop some sand bags over the feet for extra stability.
hope that is helpful and not redundant.
I had the same problem... sticky, jerky motion... with my DVX rig, but the bearings had not been properly aligned. I had done the alignment before drilling the hole in the carriage plate, and that work knocked them out. Once I had the carriage back in place, I realigned and it was perfectly fine. No extra lubricant needed.
Remember... these systems are built to hold robotic/manufacturing equipment that far outweighs our camera rigs.
digitalskylight
Active member
C2V, it looks like you're using the same sticks I am (though we're using different heads). I'm wondering if you, or anyone else, has had a problem with the rig being unbalanced? I have a simple rig setup with the 5DII + 85mm lens on it and have been experiencing some issues when it gets to one end or the other.
ZaZa, any thoughts as well?
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Yes... although I show pictures of the Manfrotto 190XDB in the first post, I only use that tripod for lower shots.
What I use mostly is an older Bogen 3046 that I picked-up on eBay for about $150.00. As you can see, I also attach (3) 5lb. ankle weights,
one to each of the spreaders. It is rock solid right out to the end. This tripod also lets me not only adjust the height via the legs, but I can also crank up the center. Very flexible.
(please ignore the fatman behind the camera....)
More pictures here: http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/album.php?albumid=214
As ZaZa said... sand bag it. Those sticks are my backup/travel sticks that I purchased because my heavyweight tripod won't fit on the side caddy of my Porta Brace backpack. They aren't the most stable, but they'll do the job in a pinch.
I also have another set of Bogen legs that are much more hefty.
Tommy K
Well-known member
When I first built my slider, I tried Pledge as a lubricant and made bearings bind. It actually made it worse. I cleaned the Pledge off very carefully and aligned the bearings. It ran smooth again. I always carry a hex key with the slider to adjust as necessary. I don't think lubricant is advisable. Use downward hand pressure on the carriage when sliding and it should run very smooth. Just keep the bearings aligned properly.
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Totally agree! I've NEVER lubricated the rail and use the thing all the time.
It's also important to make sure your rig isn't too front or back heavy, that will cause binding too. Keep your sliding hand low to the carriage, that insures a smooth slide too.:beer:
digitalskylight
Active member
I'm completely with both of you on this one. Someone told me to use WD-40 to grease up the slider and make the bearings glide, but that's just asking for a world of dust and debris to stick onto your rail.
As for the weights, thanks for the info ZaZa and C2V!
digitalskylight
Active member
I guess my other question is if you guys (and girls) recommend anything specific I can do to balance out the camera on top of the slider? The lenses I'm using are quite heavy and so I was wondering if I should grab one of those giant quick-release plates or try using rods or what?
Thanks for your help!
DS
Thanks for your help!
DS
directorvfx
Member
I just put together my slider today. The screws and plastic spacers can be a little hard to find depending on your particular hardware store. Second, I would say be sure to use WD-40 or similar lubricant on the tap if you decide to add the tap screw threads to the ends of the rail. You need to screw the tap in a little bit then back out to let the little pieces of metal clear out of the way. Then screw it back in and a little bit more then back out to let the small pieces clear out. On and on like this until you get the hole threaded as deep as you want. The lubricant makes this so much easier. Just be careful to only get it on the tap and not on the slider itself. The 701HDV head works perfectly and I shot a little test today that I'm very happy with. Thanks for the great info!
Either:
1) try to add counterweight on the back end such as a mounting plate for wireless receivers and/or battery; or
2) use an extended quick-release plate for balance (recommended); or
3) if you're using a rod system, adjust the plate mount on the rods to center the weight of the rig (also recommended).
J Davis
Veteran
Hi Zaza,
Can't believe the length of the thread ... coming up on 900 posts! Wonder if you remember me, I was way back around post 279 (link) and my first slide post 446 (link).
Anyway I wanted to share something useful. My rail is one of the longer ones (58") and I have found it pretty hard to find a bag to carry it in.
First I was looking for canvas beach umbrella bags etc, no luck, but then by chance I found what I was looking for on soccer.com
It's a bag for carrying corner flags
(that's not me, i swiped this jpeg from soccer.com)
So the bag is 70" long and 6" wide
It's sturdy, tough, seems like tear proof fabric
And it cost about $17
Literally took me months of searching to find a bag long enough for my slider
anyway ... here's the link at amazon, and I hope others find it useful as well
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019BGD1E
Now all I have to do is find some black foam padding that is the right shape.
Can't believe the length of the thread ... coming up on 900 posts! Wonder if you remember me, I was way back around post 279 (link) and my first slide post 446 (link).
Anyway I wanted to share something useful. My rail is one of the longer ones (58") and I have found it pretty hard to find a bag to carry it in.
First I was looking for canvas beach umbrella bags etc, no luck, but then by chance I found what I was looking for on soccer.com
It's a bag for carrying corner flags
(that's not me, i swiped this jpeg from soccer.com)
So the bag is 70" long and 6" wide
It's sturdy, tough, seems like tear proof fabric
And it cost about $17
Literally took me months of searching to find a bag long enough for my slider
anyway ... here's the link at amazon, and I hope others find it useful as well
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019BGD1E
Now all I have to do is find some black foam padding that is the right shape.
Attachments
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directorvfx
Member
I'm assuming except for tripod heads that need an adapter that people are using a "riser" or other attachment to raise the position of the tripod head so they can do direct "In-out" moves with the slider without getting the slider showing up in the shot when using a wide-ish lens. Correct? I'm sure it would still be a problem with an extreme wide angle.
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ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Yes... see first post.
J Davis
Veteran
natxbrotha
Well-known member
If you didn't read my post, you could check out slalom ski bags or snow ski bags... they are usually padded. My slider is going to be 5ft long, so I have been searching for a longer case as well. I could not find a gun bag/case that is over 52" long.