DIY IndieSlider...

ejm said:
Just got mine a few days ago, two weeks earlier than they told me to expect it. Was a pleasant suprise to say the least! And this thing is so solid, it'll last forever.

Zaza, I know you mentioned yours didn't make any sound when you slid the carriage, did you have to do anything special to get it that way? I loosened the carriage bolts and aligned the bearings but there is still a noticible dragging sound from the bearings sliding on the rail. Any ideas?
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Humm... how fast are you sliding it? Is the camera mounted on the carriage?
Try aligning them again (see bottom of first post). Try a little 'lemon pledge' on the rail.

Mine really doesn't make any noise, just the very slightest sound if you listen for it. It has never been picked-up by a boom mic or the on camera mic.
 
Just ordered parts for the 40mmx1 meter version. Called after the Drylin people had gone home, so the guy had me email my order to him, then he called back to get my credit card. Asked me what I was using it for (I think it's just a standard question they ask, so they know what their product is being used for) so I gave him the scoop.

Great customer service, but we already knew that. Parts should arrive next week. I just need to order those McMaster Carr blocks now.

Good news? I've worked with McMaster Carr before and so I know their standard delivery generally arrives to me in 1 day :)
 
ZazaCast said:
....
All you have to do then is run to the hardware store and get a 3/8" 16 thread tap (and a tap handle), a 5/16 metal drill bit & a 3/8" hex head bolt (you'll have to figure out the length you need, I think mine was about an inch long)
....
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hi there,

I'm from Austria (central Europe) and I've just ordered all the stuff, except for the things above, which zaza is recommending. I just can't figure it out what for sizes these are, because I can't translate this into german.
So guys, is there anyone outthere, from germany, austria or switzerland who can give me the right translation for all this stuff above?

thank you very much
and sorry if there are mistakes in my post (I'm sure there are...)
best regards
clemento
 
mrmoe said:
Anyone working on a hand crank version ?
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I've ordered mine and I'll be working on a spooled nylon rope crank system on both ends. If it works I'll post my progress and whatnot.

Thanks for everything Zaza! You're the man
 
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clemento said:
So guys, is there anyone outthere, from germany, austria or switzerland who can give me the right translation for all this stuff above?
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The sizes are inches (Zoll in German)
1 inch (1") equals 25.4 mm

3/8" 16 thread tap (and a tap handle) is a 3/8" UNC Gewindeschneider + Windeisen

a 5/16 metal drill bit is used to drill the hole for a 3/8" thread. Use an 8mm drill bit

a 3/8" hex head bolt is a Sechskantschraube mit 3/8" Gewinde.

3/8" is the larger thread (Gewinde) used on those large video heads shown here. The usual camera thread is 1/4"

A 3/8" UNC thread tap can be found here:
http://at.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0510844

and here's a 3/8" Schraube:
http://at.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0292209
 
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Thanks & Questions

Thanks & Questions

Hello All– first post here! I suppose it's good to enter with a huge "thanks".

I've enjoyed following and searching this riveting thread. Now I'm the proud owner of a small-ish Igus system. THANKS to Zaza for apparently finding that manufacturer, clarifying the slider design for all of us, or otherwise creating this monster. And THANKS to everyone else here for their input!

For reference, my system:
863 mm of rail WS-10-40, 1 shuttles number WW-10-40-10; Nikon D90; Manfrotto 701hdv head, 190xdb legs. Haven't used it yet. But from the look of things, this is going to work out great. Igus is amazing stuff. My shuttle was sliding like silk right out of the box! $94.24 total. Arrived the next day!

Note to others: I forgot to specify to Igus about holes placement, so mine didn't have one dead center. Ok by me.


Clarifications/Questions (forgive me, I'm fairly new to this):

• I'd like to be able to switch the track from "on the legs" to "on the head plate" positions. I guess I need one 3/8" threaded hole dead center in the track for this, as I have both 3/8 and 1/4" screws for the quick release plate. Anyone else doing this?
• I guess I need both a 3/8 & 1/4" hole toward the center of my shuttle. If a 5/16" drilling is needed for a 3/8 threading, what drill bit size is needed for a 1/4" thread?
• From an early test, it seems like my track could surely get in the way of a shot, if shooting/sliding length wise. Anyone have a good and cheap method for adding height above the shuttle? Something glamorous like... a block of wood? Maybe a thick dowel w/ bike handle grip or something? Not sure how to do it. Is a bowl and/or bowl adapter ($$) really needed? The ideal for creative options seems like a head on the tripod and a head on the shuttle. But... more $$$.

• Zaza, isn't there potential for accidental rotation of the track on the tripod (unscrewing)? AND– Anybody know how to have that joint rotate but not unscrew?

• Travel: Anyone have the perfect cozy carrying-case for our tracks? Am I stupid for thinking I'll carry mine on a plane next week, stowing it in the overhead? It's only about 33" long, but still.


OK. Just thought I'd share my scenario so far, for anyone else who's doing this on the smaller cheaper side. Thanks for any assistance! Hope I'm thinking of all this correctly. Exciting times, people...

FK
 
if anyone is looking for a slider prebuilt i have to sell mine, it's listed along the rest of my gear in the market, has a 100mm ball, and bowl, ball and bowl each cost 50 bucks, thats why I'm selling it for 100 more than the igus costs,
 
freedom_kit said:
• Zaza, isn't there potential for accidental rotation of the track on the tripod (unscrewing)? AND– Anybody know how to have that joint rotate but not unscrew?
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I've never had a problem with it unscrewing...haven't seen the need to have the track rotate. Could be cool though!

• Travel: Anyone have the perfect cozy carrying-case for our tracks? Am I stupid for thinking I'll carry mine on a plane next week, stowing it in the overhead? It's only about 33" long, but still.
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I purchased a "bat bag" from the local sports store. It has a zipper pocket along the bottom that holds the track and then I put the carriage and head in the upper part along with the additional Manfrotto tripod and end blocks. Works nicely.
 
Carry-on

Carry-on

I purchased a "bat bag" from the local sports store. It has a zipper pocket along the bottom that holds the track and then I put the carriage and head in the upper part along with the additional Manfrotto tripod and end blocks. Works nicely.[/quote]

Nice, thanks! And I just read through the TSA (USA) guidelines for carry-ons. To answer my own question, yes, it appears I am stupid to think I can bring my 33" narrow track on a plane. :( Which sucks because it means an additional baggage fee both directions just for the track. Maybe I should ship it instead.

Anyone taken their track onboard a plane? (Musicians can get away with long guitars and basses in the overhead. But I can just hear the security argument now: long hunk of metal = weapon.)
 
Anyone taken their track onboard a plane? (Musicians can get away with long guitars and basses in the overhead. But I can just hear the security argument now: long hunk of metal = weapon.)
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That's a tricky one. I almost had the Whipf for my follow focus, AND my carbon fibre rods confiscated "because they could be used as weapons". I had to show them what the whip was for and the rods were hollow so light as hell, so I had some bargaining power there... glad the guy was reasonable.
 
I can take my cane onboard, its a long hunk of metal, and I can do more damage with it much faster than I can with a slider,


Martin nice, what is the inchpound rating on the motor?
 
hmm, that would be strong enough to pull an hvx on wheels, but i don't think its strong enough to pull it on the slider, whats its rpm at .62?
 
Jason Miller said:
hmm, that would be strong enough to pull an hvx on wheels, but i don't think its strong enough to pull it on the slider, whats its rpm at .62?
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Jason, I used 30 rpm.

By the way to cut noise the motor is operated in half step mode so it doesn't offer the full torque plus the ULN2803A interface allows to connect twice as strong motors.

For more power you could use a different interface plus stronger motor or you could also use a d.c. motor with gear assembly. The Arduino board offers pulse width modulation (PWM) control to set different speeds. The possibilities are endless and it's fun to play with the Arduino system.
 
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