Canon ENG B4 Lens on GH1
- Thread starter bumkicho
- Start date
Koitz_roller
Member
Haha, mike88, my partner has same Nikkor and when I mount it in my GH1(3), it really seems weird. Good quality, but it lacks tripod ring 
.
Some news about servos.
I finally finished "beta version" of servo adapter. It has a Hirose connector, a typical 5mm rounded connector (like in V-Mount batteries) for battery and a piece of cable with a 2'5mm jack. It provides 12V to servo zoom and makes REC and RET buttons to work as shutter button and half-press button (to escape from menus). It's powered with a cheap and little 12V 6800mAh Li-ion battery from ebay (which seems a mini V-Mount battery). It's a pleasure to do precise zoom while focus, watch throw EVF and hold entire system as a normal camcorder, but with a DSLR!!
I try to put some photos (and maybe a video) this week, but if someone wants to try it, it's a mix from a remote shutter tutorial knowing Hirose pinout (page 27 on this thread).
Byez
.Some news about servos.
I finally finished "beta version" of servo adapter. It has a Hirose connector, a typical 5mm rounded connector (like in V-Mount batteries) for battery and a piece of cable with a 2'5mm jack. It provides 12V to servo zoom and makes REC and RET buttons to work as shutter button and half-press button (to escape from menus). It's powered with a cheap and little 12V 6800mAh Li-ion battery from ebay (which seems a mini V-Mount battery). It's a pleasure to do precise zoom while focus, watch throw EVF and hold entire system as a normal camcorder, but with a DSLR!!
I try to put some photos (and maybe a video) this week, but if someone wants to try it, it's a mix from a remote shutter tutorial knowing Hirose pinout (page 27 on this thread).
Byez
I love the lens, played a bit with it last night, but most of my night was devoted to turning my camera into a GH13. It is a beast with that lens, Even the Fuji S2 Pro that we used this lens with previously did not seem like enough camera for that lens.
I would love to see a writeup on that! It's sad but thinking of that kind of functionality literally makes me drool! I love this site and this cam, it seems like you are only limited by creativity, its kind of like it should be called a Panasonic Linux instead of Lumix.
It started snowing today, icing in the cake after watching KU loose. But when life gives you snow, make lemonade, so I edited a short piece all shot with the stock lens, and a really cheap tripod. So I apologize for shake, and I had to scale the last clip up, because I got cold and didn't shoot as much of the daffodils as I should have. PLus I don't have Vimeo yet, so sorry for Facebook quality, totally doesn't do justice to the footage.
david.rhsc
Member
Happen to have a link to the remote shutter tutorial? (I found the pinout while reading this thread a while back).
Koitz_roller
Member
http://www.instructables.com/id/Panasonic-G1-GH1-Remote-Shutter-Release/
I think there is a version of this tutorial in the forum, but I didn't found it. In my case I use it as guide to disassembly a cheap chinese remote shutter, because I didn't found a metal 2'5mm 4 pole jack and this remote shutter has an angled jack, better to this purpose.
Byez
david.rhsc
Member
Thanks, that will be a huge help. I was considering doing one of the 8.4v RC battery mods, but if I build up something for a B4 lens, then I need 12v. That means rigging up something v-lock related and then stepping down to get 8.4v into the DCC-8.
Mostly talking that through for future reference. Please let me know if the above sounds crazy.
I'll have to cruise through this thread a few more times, I think folks mentioned specific lenses that perhaps worked a little better in this application than others?
Mostly talking that through for future reference. Please let me know if the above sounds crazy.
I'll have to cruise through this thread a few more times, I think folks mentioned specific lenses that perhaps worked a little better in this application than others?
Koitz_roller
Member
None of above sounds crazy, all of them are possible options 
.
RC batteries only outputs 7'2-8'4V but you could attach two of them. It's very bulky, and it's possible you need some regulation, but it's a cheap and easy to find option.
V-Lock battery was my first (and ideal) option, because have a huge power which can feed camera, servo and led lamp for a day without too much problems. In addition, in a rig or a "steadycam" it could be a good balance weight (it's my main problem now, because lens and servo weights about 2 kg). But it's bulky, heavy, hard to positioning (needs a rig or a "steadycam") and very expensive (you probably need to buy a V-Lock mount to avoid problems).
As I said in other post, now I'm using a cheap (30€) "12V 6800 mAh li-ion battery" (ebay) which comes with some 7" TFT screens. I tested it with average load (a 160 Led Video Light with a 1'2A current) and it works very fine, with stable voltage all the time. As I said, it seems like a miniature V-Lock battery. Cons are no charge indicator (I'm investigating it), no mount (I'm attaching with velcro by the moment) and no real capacity (with this 1'2A load, it shutdowns after 4h, equal to 4800mAh, not 6800mAh).
About camera feed, I made time ago a simple "long lasting battery" with DCC-8 cable, a lead acid battery and a L7809 Regulator, which outputs 9V/1A and works without problem in camera (power adaptor outputs 9'3V, so it's between this voltage and battery ones).
So, my actual "DIY B4 power box" setup is Hirose connector (B4 lens), 5mm plug in power connector (input) and remote shutter cable (and jack and resistances), all together in a Siemens charger box
. I bought a better box today, so I expect to change it in a few days.
In future updates, I'd like to add a battery check circuit with leds (I don't know so much about lithium batteries), an audio jack input to switch between control and mic input (although this cable doesn't have all jack pins wired) and this L7809 to feed camera directly (although without a battery checker, it's a bit risky).
I'll put some videos and/or photos as soon as I've finished to put the components in new box.
Byez
.RC batteries only outputs 7'2-8'4V but you could attach two of them. It's very bulky, and it's possible you need some regulation, but it's a cheap and easy to find option.
V-Lock battery was my first (and ideal) option, because have a huge power which can feed camera, servo and led lamp for a day without too much problems. In addition, in a rig or a "steadycam" it could be a good balance weight (it's my main problem now, because lens and servo weights about 2 kg). But it's bulky, heavy, hard to positioning (needs a rig or a "steadycam") and very expensive (you probably need to buy a V-Lock mount to avoid problems).
As I said in other post, now I'm using a cheap (30€) "12V 6800 mAh li-ion battery" (ebay) which comes with some 7" TFT screens. I tested it with average load (a 160 Led Video Light with a 1'2A current) and it works very fine, with stable voltage all the time. As I said, it seems like a miniature V-Lock battery
. Cons are no charge indicator (I'm investigating it), no mount (I'm attaching with velcro by the moment) and no real capacity (with this 1'2A load, it shutdowns after 4h, equal to 4800mAh, not 6800mAh).About camera feed, I made time ago a simple "long lasting battery" with DCC-8 cable, a lead acid battery and a L7809 Regulator, which outputs 9V/1A and works without problem in camera (power adaptor outputs 9'3V, so it's between this voltage and battery ones).
So, my actual "DIY B4 power box" setup is Hirose connector (B4 lens), 5mm plug in power connector (input) and remote shutter cable (and jack and resistances), all together in a Siemens charger box
. I bought a better box today, so I expect to change it in a few days.In future updates, I'd like to add a battery check circuit with leds (I don't know so much about lithium batteries), an audio jack input to switch between control and mic input (although this cable doesn't have all jack pins wired) and this L7809 to feed camera directly (although without a battery checker, it's a bit risky).
I'll put some videos and/or photos as soon as I've finished to put the components in new box.
Byez
None of above sounds crazy, all of them are possible options
RC batteries only outputs 7'2-8'4V but you could attach two of them. It's very bulky, and it's possible you need some regulation, but it's a cheap and easy to find option.
V-Lock battery was my first (and ideal) option, because have a huge power which can feed camera, servo and led lamp for a day without too much problems. In addition, in a rig or a "steadycam" it could be a good balance weight (it's my main problem now, because lens and servo weights about 2 kg). But it's bulky, heavy, hard to positioning (needs a rig or a "steadycam") and very expensive (you probably need to buy a V-Lock mount to avoid problems).
As I said in other post, now I'm using a cheap (30€) "12V 6800 mAh li-ion battery" (ebay) which comes with some 7" TFT screens. I tested it with average load (a 160 Led Video Light with a 1'2A current) and it works very fine, with stable voltage all the time. As I said, it seems like a miniature V-Lock battery
About camera feed, I made time ago a simple "long lasting battery" with DCC-8 cable, a lead acid battery and a L7809 Regulator, which outputs 9V/1A and works without problem in camera (power adaptor outputs 9'3V, so it's between this voltage and battery ones).
So, my actual "DIY B4 power box" setup is Hirose connector (B4 lens), 5mm plug in power connector (input) and remote shutter cable (and jack and resistances), all together in a Siemens charger box
In future updates, I'd like to add a battery check circuit with leds (I don't know so much about lithium batteries), an audio jack input to switch between control and mic input (although this cable doesn't have all jack pins wired) and this L7809 to feed camera directly (although without a battery checker, it's a bit risky).
I'll put some videos and/or photos as soon as I've finished to put the components in new box.
Byez
The reason you are getting less from the L-ion battery than quoted specs is that you are putting a moderately heavy load on it. NiCd and NiMH batteries can take it better, so if you have a 4aH NiCD or NiMH battery and you put a 4 amp load on it, you will get approximately an hour of usage. With a lithium ion battery of the same rating, with the same load you will get 15-30 minutes. They just can't take high drain. So if you had a smaller load on the battery, say maybe 500mA total, you may very well get the rated capacity out of it.
Also you do want to be careful not to overdrain a Li-Ion battery as that will dramatically shorten the life too. So a battery indicator will be a good idea.
I would say probably the Canon J13x9B - the second version - the first is a little larger. Without the servo box it's not a huge lens.
Thanks lvlinux, have a client(multi-sport coach) who needs to capture practices close up and wide while following a players movements(basketball mainly) and something like this may be ideal. Being parafocal, it would simplify things for him greatly.
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Wiring a "Split Rail" B4 Lens
Wiring a "Split Rail" B4 Lens
I've got a Canon 18X9 IRS lens that I was lucky enough to find the wiring diagram for and I've attachedi t.
I'm a bit lost on where to start. I read something about this being a "split rail" DC diagram and read a primer on it but don't really understand it.
I've got a 12V and a 6V battery. I've wired up a couple of other B4 lens that were easy (one power source.)
My guess from the diagram is black and brown are +V and -V respectively..
Anyone here much better at electronics with any tips?
Need this zoom rocker for an upcoming event shoot. Thanks to everyone who can help
Wiring a "Split Rail" B4 Lens
I've got a Canon 18X9 IRS lens that I was lucky enough to find the wiring diagram for and I've attachedi t.
I'm a bit lost on where to start. I read something about this being a "split rail" DC diagram and read a primer on it but don't really understand it.
I've got a 12V and a 6V battery. I've wired up a couple of other B4 lens that were easy (one power source.)
My guess from the diagram is black and brown are +V and -V respectively..
Anyone here much better at electronics with any tips?
Need this zoom rocker for an upcoming event shoot. Thanks to everyone who can help
Attachments
Alpha Beta Omega
Veteran
If you have a 12 or 6 pin Hirose connector it's pin 3 for ground and pin 6 for +12V on both 6/12 connectors for B4 lenses.
greeches
Veteran
I am selling my B4 9.5-143mm(canon f1.8) zoom and b4-m4/3 adapter, if there is any interest...
http://vimeo.com/20171062
http://vimeo.com/20171062
I recently acquired a b4-m4/3 adapter but the B4 lens I have does not have an 2x extender. Is anyone interested in trading a "b4 to Canon FD" adapter to for a "b4-m4/3"?. Picture here:http://i.imgur.com/nR4uM.jpg I will ship it FREE. Thanks!
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DirkVoorhoeve
New member
I am really looking for a B4 to Canon FD adapter to use with the Canon FD extender. Can't find it anywhere and don't want to bother bumkicho who sold those about two years ago. I can't find it at any of the regular lens-mount-adapter suppliers on internet or e-bay. Anyone has any suggestions?
I bought one of bumkicho's b4 to canon fd lens adapters for $215. You'll see in the thread I was interested in the nikon version until there was an issue with having to modify the lens to remove the pin, so I switched to canon fd. I haven't really used it, so I was thinking about selling it if I can get what I paid. PM me if interested.
I also have a Canon J15x9.5BR4 KRE lens (9.5-143mm 1:1.8). There's no built-in 2x extender, but works with ETC mode or a Canon FD extender. It's pretty soft, especially wide open which is to be expected. I couldn't quite get the back focus adjusted to be consistent throughout the zoom range, but didn't try too hard and never got rails to support it. I bought it with an old Hitachi FP-22 ENG camera to play with.
I also have a Canon J15x9.5BR4 KRE lens (9.5-143mm 1:1.8). There's no built-in 2x extender, but works with ETC mode or a Canon FD extender. It's pretty soft, especially wide open which is to be expected. I couldn't quite get the back focus adjusted to be consistent throughout the zoom range, but didn't try too hard and never got rails to support it. I bought it with an old Hitachi FP-22 ENG camera to play with.