Can I create a timelapse by fixing the mirror on my 60D without ML somehow?

A

AndyGandy

Active member
Hello! Not the mirror I think. I get flicker because the aperture variability I think...
I just want to get flicker-free movie.
I have two remote controls. One is IR remote control and second is programmable wired USB remote control.
Can I fix the len's aperture somehow on my 60D to shoot flicker-free footage? Should I block the len's contacts?
 
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All in manual mode already of course. I mean light aperture difference between shots. Deflickering plugin is awesome but I wish to try to correct it on camera. Is it possible?
 
Get your camera all set up in manual mode. Hit the DOF preview button. while holding down the DOF preview button push the lens release button. turn the lens just about a 1/4 of the way. You want it still attached to the camera but not electronically engaged. This will disconnect the contacts making the lens sit at whatever aperture you set it to. Then let your camera go to work.
 
treynolds said:
Get your camera all set up in manual mode. Hit the DOF preview button. while holding down the DOF preview button push the lens release button. turn the lens just about a 1/4 of the way. You want it still attached to the camera but not electronically engaged. This will disconnect the contacts making the lens sit at whatever aperture you set it to. Then let your camera go to work.
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Wow! Treynolds you are my hero! Thank you! I even didnt noticed this DOF button on my camera! Great cheat! Thank you sir!
 
The flicker issue is this: on an SLR, the lens is wide open for focusing - when you trip the shutter, the lens closes to the stop selected (IE, a 2.8 lens set at f8 is at 2.8 when you focus so you get all the light - when the shutter trips, it closes for an instant to f8). But it's an old-school mechanical device, and does not close precisely the same every time. Thus you see flicker with time lapse.

The 2 ways around this are to use the "stick the aperture with the DOF button" method mentioned above, or shoot time lapse wide open. The mirror has nothing to do with it and is only an issue for long exposures where the mirror mechanism can cause blur.

Just make sure you don't loosen the lens too much - make sure it's still attached firmly!
 
No prob - I'm not a timelapse freak, but lakehouse weekends I often shoot some clouds or sunsets. You never look at clouds the same again. And putting a scrap of food out and timelapsing the ant-attack is kinda fun...
 
AndyGandy said:
All in manual mode already of course. I mean light aperture difference between shots. Deflickering plugin is awesome but I wish to try to correct it on camera. Is it possible?
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Try using NDs and close the lens down so you can slow the shutter speed. The longer shutter speed should be more acurate and similar one frame to the next. I shot a lot of timelapse in film using a Norris which at long shutter speeds. It shoots 1/4 sec and slower which is ultra smooth. You may in full daylight need to stack a few NDs to reach 1/4 sec. In lower light or at night slow the shutter speed to 1 sec for streaking lights etc.
 
I've had zero time lapse problems from shutter speed with modern DSLRs. It's aperture inaccuracy that gives the flickers, in my experience. Easy enough to test, but choosing the shutter speed that works for your shot shouldn't give you any trouble. Get the aperture locked in place or shoot wide open and you should be fine.
 
Michael Carter said:
I've had zero time lapse problems from shutter speed with modern DSLRs. It's aperture inaccuracy that gives the flickers, in my experience. Easy enough to test, but choosing the shutter speed that works for your shot shouldn't give you any trouble. Get the aperture locked in place or shoot wide open and you should be fine.
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Yeah you are right. I forgot that I never used anything in film timelapse other than manual cine lenses. How can you lock the aperture on a 60D? Even set to manual the lens still stops down for each shot than opens back up which most likely what causes the flicker. I have a collection of manual lenses but nothing wider than 24mm so I would still want to use my wide Aps-c lenses
 
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I've only owned DSLRs of the "two-knob" level - generally one controls aperture and one controls shutter, higher end. I owned a T2i for video that only had one knob, for example. So all my nikons have had the DOF preview button, don't know if all Canon DSLRs get the preview or if 'lesser' bodies eliminate it.

On a Nikon, you set your aperture, and hold down the DOF button - the lens stops down. At the same time, you press the lens lock, and twist the lens as if removing it - just unscrew the lens enough that releasing the DOF button doesn't cause the aperture to open back up.

I don't own a single SLR lens without an aperture ring though, so not sure how this works without one. But yes, the problem is the aperture is a mechanical linkage and opens slightly differently each time.

Buying a wide lens with aperture ring may be the only solution here - the good thing is, an EOS body opens you up to all sorts of vintage glass and a $20 EOS adapter... the EOS flange distance means all sorts of stuff will work, old Pentax, OM, etc far as I know - AND their aftermarket counterparts, Vivitar, etc. Since your goal is stopping down, I'd guess there's a world of primes and non-constant zooms you could find for under $100 (though wider than 20mm might kick that figure up). Since you'll be shooting stills (I generally shoot medium sized JPEG for time lapse, it's overkill) and not going wide open, top of the line glass may not be necessary - you could try batch sharpening a bit before going to video, etc. How to do the DOF trick would take some testing or googling... would you use the Canon's release or the adapter's, etc...

And cheaper vintage-ish primes and zooms can be dynamite for video, too.
 
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