C500: C500 MkII Accessories

[Liam Hall]

For those of you buying the C500 MKII what accessories do you plan on getting and what will be your go-to power source?

I'm tempted to add the V2 Module, the EVF and PL mount. And, I'm torn between regular Canon batts and the aftermarket ones with P-tap for using the camera stripped down.

 

[rob norton]

Re batteries I'd wait until the core swx nano-c98 is released and we hear some reports just in case there's any major negatives. It may be your only choice though if you require a single battery when stripped down. Core is the only third party battery that communicates with the electronics at this time. SWIT's version is just a dumb mount via the contacts, then gives you an inelegant d-tap. I don't see why the core batteries won't be excellent, as well as cost 65% of the canon bp-a60. On the flip side, despite being expensive, the canon bp-a30/bp-a60 are amazing batteries and I can't recommend them enough. I think if your c500 ii was a workhorse in many different situations you'd probably end up with v-locks for the largest set ups, core batteries for in between and bp-a30s for bare bones!

 

[JPNola]

For those of you buying the C500 MKII what accessories do you plan on getting and what will be your go-to power source?

I'm tempted to add the V2 Module, the EVF and PL mount. And, I'm torn between regular Canon batts and the aftermarket ones with P-tap for using the camera stripped down.

Get the batts with the P-tap. No reason not to.

I have the Core Nano's for my Fs7. You'll want the Canon-mount version:


https://www.coreswx.com/store.coreswx/product/nano-c98/

 

[Grug]

I'll be waiting to test the camera before making any decisions on whether to move over to it, but I've been pondering accessories a bit, and have come to a few conclusions:

Lens Mount:
- PL
- + Locking-EF if I can convince Canon to sell me the camera without the standard EF mount

Baseplate:
- For me it's either the Bright Tangerine or the Wooden Camera (because I want direct connection to standard Arri dovetails), the BT is about 250g vs. 400g for the WC, so I'd be leaning towards the BT.
- I'd be adding a compatible 19mm Studio bridgeplate as well, to add on when needed for larger zooms/anamorphic glass.
- Side Note: I don't understand why Arri aren't making their own 15mm LWS baseplates compatible with their own dovetail standard. Instead they have an in-between dovetail stage that's only a little bit smaller than the old standard, and requires adding a separate dovetail clamp on to it (that then has to be removed before you can switch over to a studio bridgeplate.

Top Handle:
- I'd put a NATO rail across the top, and use my Berkey Systems Versahandle - with three 15mm mounting points, it can hold all of the accessories I'd likely mount to the top of the camera (EVF, Monitor, Wireless TX) via 15mm rods/spuds.

Batteries:
- TBD.
- The Core batteries with a DTAP Splitter velcroed on top is probably the tidiest option, but I'm not delighted by the fragility of relying on a splitter, or spending more on batteries when I already own a bunch.
- Wooden Camera "Pro" V-mount plate, mounted to 15mm rails out the rear of the baseplate (both the WC and BT have front and rear clamps for 15mm rods, so you can mount your rear ones and front ones separately - handy if you're using lenses of a variety of lengths). The WC plate has three DTAP outputs, which paired with my AB Cine V-mounts gives me up to four separate DTAPS.
- I think a standard v-mount plate option would suffice to begin with. Hopefully someone will come out with a properly integrated option with sufficient power outputs - if we can avoid having to rely on a DTAP to XLR cable feeding the camera externally, that's one less failure point to have to worry about.

Cage/Top Plate:
- Unless the camera chassis struggles with the weight of my standard lenses and accessories, I'll avoid going for a full cage or top plate. There's a bunch of mounting points built into the top of the camera, so if I don't NEED to add the extra weight, I'll avoid it. The full BT cage is 1kg in total, and although that's actually quite light for a full cage, it's 60% of the weight of the bare camera body.

Monitor/EVF:
- This is a tough one.
- Already owning a Gratical Eye, it would seem silly to spend so much on the Canon V70, but having the single power/video cable (located at the front of the camera) is an appealing option.
- Because there are only 2 SDI outputs on the camera, there is some complexity added if you want to use a 3rd party monitor, EVF, and wireless TX at the same time. Because you'd have to loop at least one signal through another device. Which is totally doable, and not a big issue, but it does create considerably more cable mess.
- Another option is adding something like the Zacuto loupe to the Canon monitor that comes with the camera. The monitor is 720p, so should be pretty nice to use, and a good loupe solution would let you use it both as a monitor and an EVF (which is a nice way to work).

 

[rob norton]

Batteries:
- Wooden Camera "Pro" V-mount plate, mounted to 15mm rails out the rear of the baseplate (both the WC and BT have front and rear clamps for 15mm rods, so you can mount your rear ones and front ones separately - handy if you're using lenses of a variety of lengths). The WC plate has three DTAP outputs, which paired with my AB Cine V-mounts gives me up to four separate DTAPS.
- I think a standard v-mount plate option would suffice to begin with. Hopefully someone will come out with a properly integrated option with sufficient power outputs - if we can avoid having to rely on a DTAP to XLR cable feeding the camera externally, that's one less failure point to have to worry about.

What AB batteries do you already own? What are your thoughts on mini v-lock batteries e.g. swit pocket or hawk-woods mini? I don't see much point in these mini v-locks if the core ends up being a solid option. You might as well have another more powerful category of battery for different situations?

 

[indiawilds]

I will test it before making a decision to buy. If I buy then I will be buying the basic configuration. And I would get the locking EF mount as that would be better for my heavy wildlife lenses as well. I don't use PL. And I only rent out my equipment if I am operating it. So not getting the PL mount. I can buy the PL mount when needed. Of course I will check the lead time between ordering a PL mount and getting it.

I always like working in barebones configuration. I will get the EVF-50. And many BP-A60 batteries so that I can shoot in tiny spaces. Also, I think if I am handholding, it is always better to have less weight to start with and then use the electronic stabilisation and IS of the lens. My brain doesn't function at its optimum when I am tired.

Will it be better to get a Wooden Camera plate with V mount and DTaps? Nevertheless I will wait to see the best way before buying EU-V2.
PS: The core Nanos look cool

 

[Grug]

What AB batteries do you already own? What are your thoughts on mini v-lock batteries e.g. swit pocket or hawk-woods mini? I don't see much point in these mini v-locks if the core ends up being a solid option. You might as well have another more powerful category of battery for different situations?

I have ten of the 150Wh "Cine" ABs. Which I like because of their 12amp output (great for powering thirstier things like my Alexa Studio and LED lights.

I'm uncomfortably attracted to the new mini v-locks though. They're a fraction of the size!

None of them have a high output like the ABs, but they're sufficient for most things. I would much rather add half a dozen of those to my kit, than the Core ones - because I can then use them on directors monitors, and focus pullers' wireless setups, and anywhere that saving size and weight will make life easier. With Canon specific batteries, they'll only be good for Canon cameras (unless you run the DTAP out of them, and find random rigging solutions to attach them other gear that already has v-mount plates on them).

Universal/standardised kit is ALWAYS the way to go (in my opinion). It just makes life easier. Less varieties of batteries chargers you have to haul around with you etc.

As a way to bring the weight of the camera package down, they're a no brainer - the 98Wh versions I looked at recently, come in at about 40% of the weight of my ABs. That's about 500-600g shaved off the camera rig instantly.

 

[Liam Hall]

Great replies. Lots to digest here. And good to see I'm broadly in-line with everyone's thinking.

Interesting, no one mentioned getting Module 2.

 

[rob norton]

I have ten of the 150Wh "Cine" ABs. Which I like because of their 12amp output (great for powering thirstier things like my Alexa Studio and LED lights.

I'm uncomfortably attracted to the new mini v-locks though. They're a fraction of the size!

None of them have a high output like the ABs, but they're sufficient for most things. I would much rather add half a dozen of those to my kit, than the Core ones - because I can then use them on directors monitors, and focus pullers' wireless setups, and anywhere that saving size and weight will make life easier. With Canon specific batteries, they'll only be good for Canon cameras (unless you run the DTAP out of them, and find random rigging solutions to attach them other gear that already has v-mount plates on them).

Universal/standardised kit is ALWAYS the way to go (in my opinion). It just makes life easier. Less varieties of batteries chargers you have to haul around with you etc.

As a way to bring the weight of the camera package down, they're a no brainer - the 98Wh versions I looked at recently, come in at about 40% of the weight of my ABs. That's about 500-600g shaved off the camera rig instantly.

But the mini v-lock batteries (along with plate) aren't a size/weight savings compared to the core batteries. The core sits partly inside the camera vs. even a small v-lock requiring x-amount of length. The weight difference is pretty small though with cores about 400g vs. 500g for the swit pocket. This cores like you mentioned are of course at the expense of more cable management. I know your set ups would probably be more production oriented though, so I understand the total v-lock appeal!

I agree about powering accessories, keeping the monitoring set ups smaller e.g. a pair of 7 inch monitors which are more comfortable to be handheld or safer on smaller stands.

Roughly how long would a 98wh mini v-lock be able to power a camera, wireless FF, wireless transmitter and possibly small monitor for?

 

[JPNola]

That price tag for internal raw keeps climbing.

And we haven't even gotten to investing in CFexpress cards.

_______________

 

[rob norton]

That price tag for internal raw keeps climbing.

And we haven't even gotten to investing in CFexpress cards.

_______________

Despite internal raw being expensive, at least the choice is there vs. fx9 which doesn't have that ability. They're both obviously awesome but different cameras. A company in Europe bought 20 sony cameras, so what? National Geographic will buy 100 c500 iis. Eric Coughlin is good for about 20 himself. Both cameras are going to be very popular and excel in various scenarios.

I don't understand your crusade to bad mouth the canon camera every chance you get?

 

[Eric Coughlin]

I'm eyeing the Alexa Mini LF with say six Arri Signature Primes and two (or three if they come out with a wide angle) Fuji Premista lenses. Costs about as much as 20 C500 Mark IIs but I'll take the Arri route instead. I'm also eyeing a house.

I'm in no hurry to get the C500 Mark II. Maybe a purchase in a year or two, which is how long I imagine it will take before any producers start requesting them. Even then, for corporate and doc work the camera doesn't have a big advantage so it's a bit of a tough sell, and for higher end work that would want 6K RAW, there's the even more glorious 3.2K ProRres from an Arri. Aside from specs, if a camera can make you do your job better, then it's often worth the purchase assuming you already have an existing client base.

 

[JPNola]

Despite internal raw being expensive, at least the choice is there vs. fx9 which doesn't have that ability. They're both obviously awesome but different cameras. A company in Europe bought 20 sony cameras, so what? National Geographic will buy 100 c500 iis. Eric Coughlin is good for about 20 himself. Both cameras are going to be very popular and excel in various scenarios.

I don't understand your crusade to bad mouth the canon camera every chance you get?

And I don't understand your hyper-sensitivity here. Or your hostility, "mate".

 

[indiawilds]

That price tag for internal raw keeps climbing.

And we haven't even gotten to investing in CFexpress cards.

_______________

The lack of internal raw in a certain camera seems to be badly hurting some folks. Relax Brother! It is just a camera. Not Religion. It is a tool to do our work and make money.

We were taught in MBA days about cognitive dissonance. When we make a choice, we are always doubtful if that choice is good or not. So watching advertisements of the product that we just bought can calm our nerves. For folks like us forming a smaller group of owners and talk about how great that camera or equipment is, will similarly help calm nerves.

It is very important to be objective and know our bias. We all have some bias or other and the extent varies. Remember all these camera companies treat us just as customers. We are some anonymous customers for them. So baying for blood of someone else for the sake of camera doesn't make sense. :embarasse

As far as CFExpress card is concerned, Canon is bundling one 512 GB card. I don't know if buying a 1TB CFExpress would be a good idea or just go for 512 GB cards. A Sandisk 512 GB CFExpress card in B&H costs 599 US Dollars.

In comparison the Sony XQD cards used in FX9 costs a lot. A 240GB XQD card costs 425 US Dollars.

So I don't think XQD cards are cheap. May be someone will says that since FX9 is only 4K and not 6K and doesn't have the ability to record raw, so the XQD card may last longer. Well we can keep on bitching and perhaps turn it into a fine art

 

[Grug]

But the mini v-lock batteries (along with plate) aren't a size/weight savings compared to the core batteries. The core sits partly inside the camera vs. even a small v-lock requiring x-amount of length. The weight difference is pretty small though with cores about 400g vs. 500g for the swit pocket. This cores like you mentioned are of course at the expense of more cable management. I know your set ups would probably be more production oriented though, so I understand the total v-lock appeal!

I agree about powering accessories, keeping the monitoring set ups smaller e.g. a pair of 7 inch monitors which are more comfortable to be handheld or safer on smaller stands.

Roughly how long would a 98wh mini v-lock be able to power a camera, wireless FF, wireless transmitter and possibly small monitor for?

No, you won't be saving any size/weight with the mini v-locks - you just get the added versatility of being able to use the batteries elsewhere (and don't have to lug an additional battery charger around).

According to CVP’s info from Canon, “average” power draw (which I’d assume means 10-bit recording with the included Canon monitor) = approx 36.6w draw, and 5.9k raw + a bunch of accessories = approx 62w

On a 98Wh battery (assuming full efficiency) that should work out to around 2.2 hours at the “average” power draw, and 1.3 hours at the “high” power draw.

With a 150Wh battery, you’d get 3.4 hours at the “average” draw and 2 hours at “high” draw.

That seems very reasonable to me. It's not much worse than the F55 (which sips powers), and you're getting twice the sensor real estate.

 

[Liam Hall]

On a 98Wh battery (assuming full efficiency) that should work out to around 2.2 hours at the “average” power draw, and 1.3 hours at the “high” power draw.

Using LUTs, waveforms, slow-motion etc will all increase the draw and if you're hooking up video transmitter or additional accessories to the P-Tap on those Core SWX batts they are going to last an hour an half. It's one of the reasons I might get the regular Canon Batts and module 2 or a 3rd party V-lock plate. Use the little Canon's when stripped down and the V2/plate when in big-boy mode with all the accessories.

 

[morgan_moore]

Have u still got the bits from the fs7?

Id carry on as ever.
Vlock or BPU plate (I have both so depends on job)
Arca 20cm on bottom 12 CM on top
arca- homebuild handle
If I bought the EVF Id get a couple of the canon camera batts

 

[Grug]

Using LUTs, waveforms, slow-motion etc will all increase the draw and if you're hooking up video transmitter or additional accessories to the P-Tap on those Core SWX batts they are going to last an hour an half. It's one of the reasons I might get the regular Canon Batts and module 2 or a 3rd party V-lock plate. Use the little Canon's when stripped down and the V2/plate when in big-boy mode with all the accessories.

Here's an interesting post from one of the FB groups:

Very tidy setup with the mini v-lock plate. Looking at it, if you were using mini v-lock batteries, I don't think they'd actually be extending any further out the back of the camera than the Canon battery does already.

In theory you could also double them up, Canon batts for the camera, mini v-lock for any accessories. But worrying about two separate batteries is more effort than I have any interest in. I seem to constantly have assistants fail to keep track of the single V-lock on my Alexa - and those AB batteries LITERALLY count down the remaining runtime for them!

Do you ever need four-channels of audio? I feel like that's really the main reason anyone would want the Module 2 accessory. I'd never have a need for it myself, which makes it even harder to swallow that Canon have only put one DTAP and one RS port on it.

 

[Liam Hall]

I agree that's a good set-up. I've got a couple of mini V-locks, but most are full size. I wonder what that plate is??

Dove-tail is definitely a bonus for this camera as there will be so many different configurations.

Do you ever need four-channels of audio? I feel like that's really the main reason anyone would want the Module 2 accessory. I'd never have a need for it myself, which makes it even harder to swallow that Canon have only put one DTAP and one RS port on it.

I sometimes need 3 channels of audio. It wouldn't be a massive ballache to only have two. Genlock is useful on the V2, but not something I'll need for a while. I like the way the V2 moves the controls to the side and I like how it is fully integrated into the camera and I'm told it helps balance the camera on the shoulder.

There aren't many compelling reasons to buy the V2 module, but if I can get it for a good price it might be worth adding to the kit. It's neater and tidier than a plate, plus I won't be relying on a DC input cable.

 

[chris f]

Here's an interesting post from one of the FB groups:

Very tidy setup with the mini v-lock plate. Looking at it, if you were using mini v-lock batteries, I don't think they'd actually be extending any further out the back of the camera than the Canon battery does already.

I didn’t realize you could mount a third party battery plate directly to the camera, interesting. Mini v-mounts sound interesting, usually I prefer gold mount so that’d be nice if I could connect my existing gold mount plate directly to the camera....