C100: C100/Ninja 2 Nature film "Their Last Days"

Paul Frederick said:
Thanks, the interview and the fern is the Canon 24-105 F4 and the wide angles are the Tokina 11-16 f2.8.
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thanks! I was wondering if the wide shots were with the tokina 11-16. I just placed an order for this same set-up. Your footage helped me with my decision.
 
Paul Frederick said:
My Custom Profile is based on Cowpunks as a base:
I created a custom profile called WIDE PF, listing only the changes below- here are the settings:
Gamma curve is L:5, M:8, H:5
Gamma: Wide DR
Black-Master Ped: -1
Knee ON: Slope: -15 Point:109
COLOR MATRIX (This is the biggy) WIDE DR Gain:+30, Phase: +3, R-G: -20, R-B: +11, G-R:-23, G-B: -14, B-R: -10, B-G: +1

As for the Ninja 2, yes, I find it shows alot of grain that isnt on the AVCHD files. I always roll on both so I can compare directly. The AVCHD recording must use some kind of NR, because the recordings are cleaner in the dark areas, but don't lose any detail. And I'm not just talking about when you underexpose, it seems to be stronger in the blue channel but not sure. In very detailed scenes like a distant hillside with lots of detailed foliage, the AVCHD starts to break down, the biggest challenge is blowing reeds in a swamp. It just blocks up but the Ninja recording, with way more bits, keeps it all very solid! The Ninja doesn't make the recording any sharper, where it really helps is in heavy motion or highly moving detailed scenes. So it's a love hate for me! I love the more robust recording, but the grain it adds (or should say-records from the HDMI as I don't think it is adding anything, the HDMI out is noisier) is a bummer.

Most of the Ninja comparison videos online have it wrong! They show a static scene and say "Look-very little difference" and they are right, it won't show a difference on a static scene. Add motion, like waves, moving water, blowing reeds and the AVCHD starts to block up due to not enough bits. I'll try and post a motion based comparison soon.
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Using which of Cowpunks as a base? Or did you adjust this going off of the WideDR profile and using Cow's adjustments as a start?
 
I used the WIDE DR profile and used some of Cow's adjustments as a base. He didnt have any with the WIDE DR profile (I don't believe-it's been a while since I did this!). Anyway, its mostly me tweaking WIDE DR to my liking. No scopes or anything just through trial and error so I'm not saying it's 100% accurate color or anything, but it looks more pleasing to me then the base WIDE DR, which I found too desaturated and a little greenish blue.

Another quick tip I found useful: I was always overexposing, still do occasionally, but when I turned the LCD screen setting to BRIGHT instead of normal, it was a HUGE help in me getting exposure nailed easier! I HIGHLY recommend people set the LCD screen setting to BRIGHT. Normal just looks too dark so you are always trying to compensate with the exposure!
 
Doug_EX said:
thanks! I was wondering if the wide shots were with the tokina 11-16. I just placed an order for this same set-up. Your footage helped me with my decision.
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Its an awesome lens! TACK sharp when stopped down to F4. Even F2.8 is quite crisp. You will love that lens!
 
Paul Frederick said:
I used the WIDE DR profile and used some of Cow's adjustments as a base. He didnt have any with the WIDE DR profile (I don't believe-it's been a while since I did this!). Anyway, its mostly me tweaking WIDE DR to my liking. No scopes or anything just through trial and error so I'm not saying it's 100% accurate color or anything, but it looks more pleasing to me then the base WIDE DR, which I found too desaturated and a little greenish blue.

Another quick tip I found useful: I was always overexposing, still do occasionally, but when I turned the LCD screen setting to BRIGHT instead of normal, it was a HUGE help in me getting exposure nailed easier! I HIGHLY recommend people set the LCD screen setting to BRIGHT. Normal just looks too dark so you are always trying to compensate with the exposure!
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Cool, I'll give your settings a go and see if I can make any adjustments as well. I like the grabs you posted and I agree, WideDr is nice but it does need improvements.
 
Let me know if you improve it! Always good to get someone elses take on it. I shoot for clients that I have to hand the footage off to alot of the time, so I needed something with a wider DR, and richer colors, some would freak if I gave them a C-log clip!
 
Paul, I used your Wide DR + Matrix settings today and thought it is a huge improvement to the stock one. Skin is a little warmer and overall so much more pleasing. I'l be using your matrix from now on!! Thanks heaps for sharing this :)

Funny u mentioned about setting LCD to bright as I do this as well as i have a tendency to sometimes overexpose and this really helps.
 
BeeHop said:
Paul, I used your Wide DR + Matrix settings today and thought it is a huge improvement to the stock one. Skin is a little warmer and overall so much more pleasing. I'l be using your matrix from now on!! Thanks heaps for sharing this :)

Funny u mentioned about setting LCD to bright as I do this as well as i have a tendency to sometimes overexpose and this really helps.
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GREAT BeeHop! Glad you liked it. Indeed I always felt the stock WIDE DR setting had too much green and blue so I warmed it up some. I think that was the biggest change I made to it. Also brought Master Ped down a tick.
 
OlegKalyan said:
Paul, how would you normally color balance for your shots?
Ps thanks for sharing your thoughts!
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For the early morning shots, I used the daylight preset. If you do the white card in front of the lens way at that hour of light, it will drain all the dramatic orange from the shots. I actually use the daylight preset for most outdoor shooting on a sunny day, if it's near magic hour (first or last light of the day) I want the light to look like it's that time of day anyway, so it'll be warmer by sticking to the daylight preset, which is more dialed in at mid-day light. If it's cloudy, I will use a white card in front of the lens to get the right "color" of the overcast day. Inside, I always use a white card as there is usually varying kinds of light in a room. Some window light, my LED lights, etc. So a white card in front of the subject will get their fleshtones right under that specific location. That's how I do it anyway, not saying it's the right or only way. Happy shooting!
 
Paul Frederick said:
My Custom Profile is based on Cowpunks as a base:
I created a custom profile called WIDE PF, listing only the changes below- here are the settings:
Gamma curve is L:5, M:8, H:5
Gamma: Wide DR
Black-Master Ped: -1
Knee ON: Slope: -15 Point:109
COLOR MATRIX (This is the biggy) WIDE DR Gain:+30, Phase: +3, R-G: -20, R-B: +11, G-R:-23, G-B: -14, B-R: -10, B-G: +1
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Did you start with WDR or one of the default CPs as a base or does it not make a difference like it does for the log based profiles?

Thanks a lot for sharing Wide PF, I do prefer the look over the standard WDR.
 
I just used the standard WIDE DR and made these adjustments. Someone in the other post mentioned the Knee has no effect in the Wide DR setting. I don't know myself about that, will have to test it to see. But I don't see how it will hurt to leave it at these settings, if it has no effect then nothing lost!
 
Gorgeous Paul, just stunningly gorgeous!

Hope I didn't miss answers to these questions in the thread, but:

What's your preferred exposure method? WFM? Zebra? The exposure bar at the bottom of the LCD?
And where do you set it/them? I been struggling a bit lately on outdoor shoots.

And did you use an EVF, or just the stock cam LCD or what?

I use Wide DR and will definitely check out your Wide PF.

Thanks for sharing!
 
groveChuck said:
Gorgeous Paul, just stunningly gorgeous!

Hope I didn't miss answers to these questions in the thread, but:

What's your preferred exposure method? WFM? Zebra? The exposure bar at the bottom of the LCD?
And where do you set it/them? I been struggling a bit lately on outdoor shoots.

And did you use an EVF, or just the stock cam LCD or what?

I use Wide DR and will definitely check out your Wide PF.

Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks! Biggest tip for better exposure (in my opinion anyway) is to change LCD setting in menu to BRIGHT. It looks too dark always with the stock setting and you are always overexposing to get it to look decent on the LCD. On location I use a combination of the bar at the bottom of screen to get me close, then I use the waveform to really fine tune it. I have zebras on as well but mostly rely on the other two methods. If you leave waveform on and raise and lower the exposure, you can see it starts to mushroom some near the top end, this means it's getting too bright and its best to lower it, even if it seems like you are no where near 100IRE. You can tweak it more in post, but its better to be SLIGHTLY underexposed then over if you ask me. Too underexposed and you will end up boosting grain in post so its a delicate balancing act!

I use a hoodman loupe (the one for the EX1 coupled with the extender they sell). Its not ideal as it's blurry in the corners, so you have to move your eye around to see all of the screen in perfect clarity, it is very light however and I attach with simple rubber bands and it will stay in one spot and not droop with this method. Quick to take on and off too.

Happy shooting and let me know what you think of WIDE PF for a custom profile!
 
Paul Frederick said:
Thanks! Biggest tip for better exposure (in my opinion anyway) is to change LCD setting in menu to BRIGHT. It looks too dark always with the stock setting and you are always overexposing to get it to look decent on the LCD. On location I use a combination of the bar at the bottom of screen to get me close, then I use the waveform to really fine tune it. I have zebras on as well but mostly rely on the other two methods. If you leave waveform on and raise and lower the exposure, you can see it starts to mushroom some near the top end, this means it's getting too bright and its best to lower it, even if it seems like you are no where near 100IRE. You can tweak it more in post, but its better to be SLIGHTLY underexposed then over if you ask me. Too underexposed and you will end up boosting grain in post so its a delicate balancing act!
!
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Even with lcd set to bright, I found that the lcd shows the image quite underexposed. I will try to tweak the brightness and contrast a bit.
 
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