GH2 Best Practices for minimizing rolling shutter jello, wobble, jitters on the GH2

Shenan

Well-known member
Hi All,

I was finally hit by the wobbles, jitters, and jello effect of rolling shutter whith the GH2 recently (shooting events handheld without OIS), and have been doing some research on how to minimize it in the future. I've compiled what I found so far (as well as some possible ideas) for my own future reference, but wanted to post it here in the hope that it might help others, and also in the hope that others will add their knowledge and experience as well. Please jump in with any input and I will edit the post with updates as I get them.

I have divided this info into 3 categories: physical operation/movement, camera lenses/settings, and post production.

* Notice that this is mostly about dealing with the jittery/wobbly effect of rolling shutter on a relatively static or slow moving shot, not so much the big leaning vertical lines noticeable on fast pans or fast moving objects. Some of these recommendations may help with that as well, but the leaning effect may be harder to prevent depending on the speed of the movement of the camera or object.

A. Physical Operation / Movement

This is perhaps the most important factor in preventing jello effects and applicable to all cameras that suffer from it, not just the GH2. Go for the most stable platform that you have available or that is practical for the shot. In order of most stable to least stable (not including more specialized things like car mounts, aerial platforms, etc, but if you do have experience with them, please add), they are:

  1. Video Tripod
  2. Video Monopod
  3. Dolly or Slider
  4. Jib
  5. Steadicam or other similar floating gimbal device
  6. Shoulder rig, gun-stock rig or other similar fixed, body-mounted/braced device
  7. Tension device, like a string monopod, a strap monopod (steadistrap, strap pod), or applying tension to the camera strap
  8. Double-handed floating camera rig, like a fig rig, halo rig, etc - something with one handle on either side of the camera
  9. Pistol grip (is it better than bare handholding, particularly if bracing your elbow on your torso and looking through the EVF for additional point of contact?)
  10. Bare Hand-holding

Q: Should any of these be placed in a different order?

I should also note that all of the above can be improved with proper technique and practice. For example, here are some still photography camera handling techniques that may be applicable to hand-holding for video as well. Also try to always use the viewfinder or a loupe system instead of holding the camera in front of you and using the LCD - putting the viewfinder or loupe against your eye socket will serve as a third point of contact that will help stabilize the camera more than just your two hands. Slower and steadier movements in general will lead to less or no jello effects. Bare hand-holding seems to be only a last resort, particularly if using a non-OIS lens, and especially anything above a 50mm.

B. Camera Lenses and Settings

Second most important factor in preventing jello effects. Several of these are specific to the GH2 (not in any particular order):

  1. Use lenses with image stabilization. If possible, experiment with the camera IS settings to find the optimal one for the specific lens you are using and types of shots you are trying to achieve.
  2. Use wider lenses. The longer the focal length of the lens, the more noticeable the shake is, leading to more pronounced jello effects. Otherwise, the longer the lens, the more solid stabilization is required.
  3. Use higher frame rate modes, like 60i instead of 24p. (source: post by Barry Green)
  4. Use 720 resolution modes instead of 1080. (source: post by Barry Green)
  5. Use ETC mode.

Q: Do shutter speed and aperture settings have any positive effect? I've seen some posts saying no for shutter speed, but was hoping for a concensus or real observed results. I doubt that aperture has any effect, but doesn't hurt to ask.

Q: Do any of the hacks or any stock bitrate settings have a positive effect? Again, I believe I've seen some posts mentioning this, but I'm not sure.

Q: Do any other camera or lens settings / factors have an effect?

C. Post Production

It's always best to prevent jello effects while you are shooting, because the post-production fixes listed below can be expensive, time-consuming, and probably won't produce perfect results. If you end up with jello effects in your shots anyway, there are post-processing tools (usually in the form of plug-ins) that can help you remove some of the effect from your footage:

  1. Vegas Pro 10 and above
  2. Deshaker (filter for Videodub)
  3. Final Cut Pro X
  4. After Effects CS 5.5 or later
  5. iMovie (version?)
  6. Vegas Movie Studio (version?)
  7. Mercalli (plug-in for various programs)

I've heard of some other tools as well, but don't recall their names right now. Please add any that you know will reduce jello effects.

Q: Is there anything else that I left out or that I should change? Please jump in with your thoughts. I will edit this first post with updates or changes as you mention them.
 
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Can you post some footage that was ruined by the jello affect but would be usable if the camera did not have any jello affect. My guess is that the filming techniques that produce jello affect also produce undesirable footage.
 
Yes, I agree with you in principle, and I could have probably prevented what happened with my footage had I prepared better for it and used some of the ideas that I listed above. :) However, marginal or undesirable footage is sometimes in the eyes of the beholder, and sometimes it's all you can get in a given situation if you want to have any video at all of a certain moment. The jello effect can make a shot that could have been salvageable by a shake reduction plug-in into an unsalvageable or barely usable shot. In short, this is the main purpose of the thread: to share and learn all that can be done to prevent/reduce/repair jello, including camera handling technique, which I acknowledge is the most important factor. Thanks!
 
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:) I'm not sure what you mean, but should it go under camera handling, camera settings, or post production?
 
Pretty much NEVER hand hold it. It's a light camera, and even if you think you're steady you'll find lots of little micro-jitters when you review your footage. Always use some sort of stabilization, and treat it like a much bigger, heavier camera.
 
Pretty much NEVER hand hold it. It's a light camera, and even if you think you're steady you'll find lots of little micro-jitters when you review your footage. Always use some sort of stabilization, and treat it like a much bigger, heavier camera.
This is what I'm kind of afraid of. Sometimes I like hand holding it, and sometimes it's necessary, so what can be done to improve that? Does a pistol grip help? Has anyone experimented with adding weight to the camera? I suppose I also didn't mention using the viewfinder for an added point of contact for increasing stability.
 
Use a non Panasonic lens handheld and get ready for a wonderful jello and micro shake dish. Non GH2 compatible OIS lenses, basically anything but Panasonic specific ones, are a disaster in the making when you use them with the GH2. And there is a lot of footage on Vimeo and You Tube to prove it.
 
​Funny, I'm shooting a documentary where I pretty much ONLY hand-hold the camera. I have not seen ANY jello effect. I am using the Varavon LOUPE EX-SUPPORTER GH1/GH2. What a great product! I'm sure that it helps to stabilize my shots, but it does so much more than that. Totally lovin' it for hand-held work.

Jeff


 
You forgot to add video monopod to your list.

...Also, longer lenses require better stabilization than wider lenses. ( i.e. The longest lens I will use with my video monopod is 50mm with the GH-2 )
 
Use a non Panasonic lens handheld and get ready for a wonderful jello and micro shake dish. Non GH2 compatible OIS lenses, basically anything but Panasonic specific ones, are a disaster in the making when you use them with the GH2. And there is a lot of footage on Vimeo and You Tube to prove it.

Interesting. I hope that's not the complete case, but after my experience with even the brand new Panasonic/Leica 25mm f/1.4 (non-OIS) I'm afraid that the general idea is that one should not do bare hand-held shots with any non-OIS lenses. I don't think anyone besides Panasonic has made any OIS lenses for MFT, right? Olympus has IS, but it's all in-camera?
 
​Funny, I'm shooting a documentary where I pretty much ONLY hand-hold the camera. I have not seen ANY jello effect. I am using the Varavon LOUPE EX-SUPPORTER GH1/GH2. What a great product! I'm sure that it helps to stabilize my shots, but it does so much more than that. Totally lovin' it for hand-held work.

Cool, good to know. What lenses have you used so far? The Varavon looks pretty interesting. Is it better than just using the EVF, and why? Thanks!
 
Thanks TheDingo, I did completely forget the monopod. Added now. I also forgot the string/strap monopod, and bracing against solid objects, which I will add.

Thanks Brian@202020 as well, I will remove the question mark for FCP X.

Also, I found some interesting links of stabilization techniques that I was not previously familiar with, if anyone is interested (I will probably link these from the first post):
http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-avoid-camera-shake
http://www.cameratechnica.com/2011/08/21/how-to-steady-a-camera-without-a-tripod/ (the laser pointer measurement is interesting!)
I've also seen some mentions of using the camera strap itself to help stabilization, but I still need to research it more because it's not completely clear yet.
 
I also find the HaloRig Mini very useful as a quick stabilizer for the GH-2, especially if you hang a weight underneath the camera. ( my video monopod snaps underneath, and folded up it makes a great counter balance for the HaloRig Mini )

HaloRig Mini
 
I like hand holding it, and sometimes it's necessary, so what can be done to improve that?
i built a couple of VERY simple yet effective hand-held and shoulder mount stabilizers with a variety of ikan elements parts.

myrig.jpgIMG_3671.jpg
 
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Cool, good to know. What lenses have you used so far? The Varavon looks pretty interesting. Is it better than just using the EVF, and why? Thanks!

Just returned from a documentary shoot in Cambodia. No time for tripods, or anything else. Wait, I lied: I prefer to shoot handheld. Iʻd rather NOT use a tripod for this project!

I took just 3 lenses:

Panasonic 14mm f2.5 pancake
Nikon 24mm f2.0
Nikon 50mm f1.4

For me, the Varavon offers 4 advantages:
1) itʻs a critical focus aid
2) allows low angle shooting
3) flips out of the way when you need 2-eyed viewing, while shading the LCD from extraneous light
4) offers a contact point with your body, which can aid stability

The EVF is pretty lousy, and is very limited in terms of angle of viewing. Every single GH2 shooter should have a Varavon!

Aloha, my friend.

Jeff
 
Thanks again, TheDingo, wgzn, and jdesignhi!

I'm still curious about these three questions, so if anyone has an answer based on experience, I would love to hear it:
Q: Do shutter speed and aperture settings have any positive effect?
Q: Do any of the hacks or any stock bitrate settings have a positive effect?
Q: Do any other camera or lens settings / factors have an effect?
 
Thanks again, TheDingo, wgzn, and jdesignhi!

I'm still curious about these three questions, so if anyone has an answer based on experience, I would love to hear it:
Q: Do shutter speed and aperture settings have any positive effect?
Q: Do any of the hacks or any stock bitrate settings have a positive effect?
Q: Do any other camera or lens settings / factors have an effect?

I do a lot of aviation work and the best fix for rolling shutter issues with propellers is shutter speed. Typically 1/125 or even slower for video when shooting 60fps deals with it.
I haven't found any hack or other variable that helped with my application
 
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