Beginner T2i user.

AllAroundFilmLV

AllAroundFilmLV

Well-known member
So I've had a DSLR for a couple years, mainly learning the basics of photography. But now I have this fantastic T2i in my hands with the kit lens.

So far, I LOVE the camera. But is it just me or is the kit glass a much inferior compared to something like this.

My friend just bought a 7D and I was tinkering around with it with that lens and the images I was getting were blowing my mind up (Howard Stern reference)!

My question is: is this due to the glass I was using or the step up in camera model?

Also, Where is a good place to start to become educated on which lens I should purchase? AND WHY? I've heard a lot about X lens being superior to Y lens for such and such reasons. But I never paid attention in my photography classes, so I don't know jack about making an educated decision on my next lens of choice.

T2i/7D team assemble! Form of: film geek!
 
It's the glass. I mean there's all sorts of lenses to get. From the 14mm to the 28mm wide angles, 35-60mm standard, and 70mm and on telephotos. For a flatter look, grab a telephoto. To get closer for emphasis, grab a wide angle. For a look that replicates the view of the human eye, grab a 35mm f/2 or a 50mm f/1.4. There's all sorts of lenses.

For me, I always use a standard 35mm f/2 and a telephoto like a 85mm f/1.8

It's your call. Here's a good place to start:
http://photonotes.org/articles/beginner-faq/lenses.html
 
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Also look into a zoom lens if you only want one convenience lens. Make sure it's a f/2.8 lens. These non-zooms are faster but the zooms will be more expensive and more convenient.
 
I think another issue that's bothering me is max iris setting can only stop down to 5.6 which is driving me fu**ing mental. I hate it.

Is there a reason why I need to make sure it's an f/2.8 lens?
 
Well I mean it's not a necessity, but it gives you more versatility. Light loss is measured in F-stops, and can be seen in the f/** number on the lens. A fast prime (non-zoom) lens generally gives you from f/1.4 to f/2 wide open. Very little light lost. This means turning up ISO less, and shallower depth of field (narrow range of whats in focus). A slow lens like a kit lens loses way more light, and is wide open at f/3.5 to f/5.6. You lose 2 f-stops of light going from f/2 and f/3.5. This is the difference from using a higher ISO and grainier images. The fastest zooms only get up to f/2.8 unless you're shooting a 4/3rds camera (Olympus and Panasonic), and those are really expensive anyway. This is why people tend to use primes.
 
Word to the wise, the best way to shoot is to do it. No talking, no crying. Go out there and make it happen.

In the Sun Light you will be shooting with your F Stop well into 12+, on cloudy days F 5 is still fine.

The only real time you need a lower F stop is indoors with NO LIGHT, but even then you can raise the iso to 800 which gives a lot of light or max 1600 which provides some grain but imo it is still acceptable.

Get yourself an on camera light and you will be golden. I am a self taught videographer making it happen.
 
heyrobert said:
Also look into a zoom lens if you only want one convenience lens. Make sure it's a f/2.8 lens. These non-zooms are faster but the zooms will be more expensive and more convenient.
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Last week I just got the Canon 70-200 f/4 L for my T2i. $650 from B&H, and I love it! Even at f/4 it still gives good shallow DOF and the quality is freaken incredible! Sharp as hell, insanely fast AF for photos, and smooth zoom and focus rings! Plus, it looks professional to give this giant white lens barreling off your camera! I also use a 28mm and 135mm prime for video, which are both f/2.8. They are older M42 screw mount lenses, but I got a $5 adapter on ebay. The only thing I wish is that they were a little sharper, and had a little less chromatic aberration, but hey, it gets the job done!
 
Yeah. It totally depends on the user. I really dislike grain, thus I love low ISO's with super fast primes and recommend them. To his their own. It's all about the final product.
 
AllAroundFilmLV said:
what's a "prime"?

Edit: Nevermind. I found out in the article heyrobert linked.
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yeah i think what you're looking for are FAST lenses. the fastest you can get are primes. primes don't zoom. but they let in so much light that you don't care, it gets great pictures.

of course the effects, like any, can be overdone then it's just gimmicky.

it's all about painting with light, and the more options you have to "catch" that light, the better.

but of course, the downside is that your fixed to a single focal length. wide, normal, and telephoto are the basic types. what zooms do is try and be two or more of those things at the same time.

but anyway, PRIMES! FAST LENSES!

:)



*not all primes are necessarily fast. and depends on your needs
 
Cieloent said:
Word to the wise, the best way to shoot is to do it. No talking, no crying. Go out there and make it happen.

In the Sun Light you will be shooting with your F Stop well into 12+, on cloudy days F 5 is still fine.

The only real time you need a lower F stop is indoors with NO LIGHT, but even then you can raise the iso to 800 which gives a lot of light or max 1600 which provides some grain but imo it is still acceptable.

Get yourself an on camera light and you will be golden. I am a self taught videographer making it happen.
Click to expand...

That is a very acceptable approach to shooting, no doubt. However, there are other approaches that work also.

Depth of field (DOF) is, for the most part, is a function of lens focal length and aperture diameter ("F" stop). A lower "F" stop, or wider aperture opening increases DOF and a higher "F" stop, or smaller aperture opening decreases DOF. One aesthetic approach is to choose a specific aperture (or range of aperture settings) and there for DOF, and maintaining the proper exposure by controlling the light quantity or the judicious use of filtration (i.e., ND or Neutral density filters). This helps to maintain a visual continuity over your shots, scenes and projects. Sudden radical changes in DOF, focal length or ISO setting can be as jarring in a scene as a jump cut or continuity blunder. (I know that exposure is also a function of shutter speed, but I would pick a cinematic shutter speed (1/50thish) and stick with it, unless a specific effect is wanted).

Pick the ISO setting you want (for the "Look" you are going for). Pick an aperture setting or range of settings, and focal length range that you want and works for your look, then control the light and/or use filtration to control exposure. Now placement and quality of the light is very important, but the quantity of light used should be based on what you need to get a proper exposure based on the lens choices you have made.

To me, this is the essence of cinematography. It is choosing the look I want with the tools I have, not just getting an exposure. Now I know in available light situations this can be difficult, but new tools are making things better.
 
David G. Smith said:
That is a very acceptable approach to shooting, no doubt. However, there are other approaches that work also.

Depth of field (DOF) is, for the most part, is a function of lens focal length and aperture diameter ("F" stop). A lower "F" stop, or wider aperture opening increases DOF and a higher "F" stop, or smaller aperture opening decreases DOF. One aesthetic approach is to choose a specific aperture (or range of aperture settings) and there for DOF, and maintaining the proper exposure by controlling the light quantity or the judicious use of filtration (i.e., ND or Neutral density filters). This helps to maintain a visual continuity over your shots, scenes and projects. Sudden radical changes in DOF, focal length or ISO setting can be as jarring in a scene as a jump cut or continuity blunder. (I know that exposure is also a function of shutter speed, but I would pick a cinematic shutter speed (1/50thish) and stick with it, unless a specific effect is wanted).

Pick the ISO setting you want (for the "Look" you are going for). Pick an aperture setting or range of settings, and focal length range that you want and works for your look, then control the light and/or use filtration to control exposure. Now placement and quality of the light is very important, but the quantity of light used should be based on what you need to get a proper exposure based on the lens choices you have made.

To me, this is the essence of cinematography. It is choosing the look I want with the tools I have, not just getting an exposure. Now I know in available light situations this can be difficult, but new tools are making things better.
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Great post, and yes I do agree with you as well. The thing is though, to learn , have fun, express yourself and hopefully make a living from it. I feel blessed to have this talent and people pay for it.
 
The way I explain it to people is...

Think of your aperture like you are squinting.

If you squint, everything is in focus. this is like having a high F-stop (F16)

If you look at something with your eye wide open, the object in the foreground will be in focus, while the background objects will be out of focus. This is like a low F-stop (F2 or less)


Hope this helps!
 
Just to throw my 2 cents in.....
I also recently bought a T2i with the kit lens, also got a canon 50mm 1.8 and here's my take on what I'm gonna do just because.......

The kit lens is $100 but I'm sure you've already realised that it has some "problems"
(not really problems, but you know what I mean)

The canon 50mm is awesome (I got the $100 job, but it's great) One of the things that I immediately noticed was the 50mm is great for portrait stills but for video, (especially at 1.8 or 2.0 ish) the DOF is VERY thin. (and keeping focus at under 2.0 is kinda hard for me) Not to mention that for video, NOT having a zoom can be somewhat problematic for shot composition on certain "run n gun" stuff.

So what I'm gonna do (and I would suggest you think about this also,) Is get a tokina 16-50 mm
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/498661-REG/Tokina_ATX165PRODXC_16_50mm_f_2_8_AT_X_165.html

I think this will fill in nicely for most of what I need. Do a little research on this lens and you might agree (depending on what you use the camera for)
 
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