auto focus problem

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Danny1280

Well-known member
I put a post on her a couple months ago...weird auto-focus issues.
Like I'm focussed on someone in a room using AF, and the AF # on the display seems to go from 13 ft to infinity. I sent it in to panasonic and the problem is still there. Funny thing is that it doesn't seem to happen when I put the whole camera on auto, only when the camera's on manual and I use the auto focus switch at the front. Anyone have any ideas? Wondered if doing the firmware upgrade might help it? Might be time for a phone call to panasonic?
 
Yea I have similiar issues, if I'm in manual focus, and just want a fast switch to infinity by pressing the AF button, it gets all messy and blurry, and we got a ruined shot =P. I don't think that there is something wrong with your camera, mine is the same, and probably others too- it's just the way they work.

That's why I absolutely never use the AF, it a big no no IMO.
 
I've had the 150 for about a week and noticed immediately how poor the autofocus is sometimes...I guess thats why it pays to be good at manual focus ;)
 
As I consider which HD camera to purchase, with the 150 being the current front-runner, this news is more than a little troublesome. For event work, a fast and accurate auto-focus and auto-iris are must haves. As I concentrate solely on composition, moving about the often fast moving 'scene' to react to what's happening at the event, I need to know that when I get back to the edit bay, my shots will be properly exposed and in focus.

Can anyone using the 150 compare it's auto-focus to that of the DVX100, my current camera? Is the 150 worse, about the same, better?
 
Whenever I hear of autofocus complaints, I have to ask what mode the person is shooting in. Yes, in 24p, autofocus is really slow and hunts a lot. But in 60p/60i it's tremendously better. Same as on the DVX, autofocus in 24p was awful, in fact on the original DVX they disabled autofocus entirely because the performance wasn't satisfactory. Too slow of a refresh rate means that the autofocus system can't perform optimally. In 60i/60p it's much better and that's the same with the HMC150.
 
For event work, a fast and accurate auto-focus and auto-iris are must haves. As I concentrate solely on composition, moving about the often fast moving 'scene' to react to what's happening at the event, I need to know that when I get back to the edit bay, my shots will be properly exposed and in focus.
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you must be used to doing this, but i would be careful with autoiris. once you are in a room and have an exposure set for people shouldnt it pretty much stay set that way? you dont want things going dark everytime you pan by a window in the backtground. i was recently given some autoirised footage to edit and most of it was unusable because of that.
 
Jim Simon said:
For event work, a fast and accurate auto-focus and auto-iris are must haves.
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No, it's not.

It will take some practice, but you should learn to do *everything* in manual. It takes just as long as allowing the camera to find focus, and your results will be 100 times better. The focus ring on the lens is good enough, and the built in zebra pattern and waveform monitor accurate enough that you shouldn't need to let the camera decide for you what is and isn't in focus or what the proper exposure should be

Never ever ever ever allow a computer algorithm to decide for you what should and shouldn't be in focus or what the proper exposure should be. Most ENG cams don't even have an auto-focus... I used to shoot PAC-10 football, basketball, and soccer with cameras that lacked auto-focus (and rarely used the auto-iris as I didn't trust it... and these were $20k-$35k cameras). And these were 2/3" cams with shallower DoF making it more difficult to do. It takes practice, but it *can* be done, and the results are worth the effort.

Trust me, once you learn to go full manual, you'll never want to use auto-anything again.
 
Mike Harvey said:
No, it's not.

It will take some practice, but you should learn to do *everything* in manual. It takes just as long as allowing the camera to find focus, and your results will be 100 times better. The focus ring on the lens is good enough, and the built in zebra pattern and waveform monitor accurate enough that you shouldn't need to let the camera decide for you what is and isn't in focus or what the proper exposure should be

Never ever ever ever allow a computer algorithm to decide for you what should and shouldn't be in focus or what the proper exposure should be. Most ENG cams don't even have an auto-focus... I used to shoot PAC-10 football, basketball, and soccer with cameras that lacked auto-focus (and rarely used the auto-iris as I didn't trust it... and these were $20k-$35k cameras). And these were 2/3" cams with shallower DoF making it more difficult to do. It takes practice, but it *can* be done, and the results are worth the effort.

Trust me, once you learn to go full manual, you'll never want to use auto-anything again.
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Very informative. Thanks, Mike.
 
Trust me, once you learn to go full manual, you'll never want to use auto-anything again.
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Sorry but, my own experience contradicts that statement. Yes, there are many times during an event where I prefer manual, but the kind of shooting I do doesn't always allow me to have my hand on the lens barrel. Fast and accurate auto features really are important for me to do the best work I can.
 
Jim Simon said:
Sorry but, my own experience contradicts that statement. Yes, there are many times during an event where I prefer manual, but the kind of shooting I do doesn't always allow me to have my hand on the lens barrel. Fast and accurate auto features really are important for me to do the best work I can.
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What are you doing that doesn't allow you to have one hand on the barrel?
 
Maybe it's time you invested in a Varizoom focus and zoom assist.

http://www.varizoom.com/products/controls/vzrockpzfi.html
Specifically designed for Panasonic HVX200, DVX100B, HMC150, and HPX170 cameras, this is the first and only zoom, focus, and iris control. This powerful combination offers precise control over these three camera functions. Operator may switch between auto and manual control for focus and iris at anytime. Works on all camera supports, stabilizers, tripods, & jibs.


Could solve all your problems.
 
During weddings, for example, I carry the camera around on a monopod at the reception. This allows me to easily reach the camera over the crowd on the dance floor. I can zoom with the rocker, but trying to also manually focus that is just not something I want to be doing, especially since the viewfinder is 4 to 5 feet away from my face under those conditions.

The camera I choose needs to auto-focus well.
 
If you want good autofocus performance, stick to 60p or 60i. Any camera is going to autofocus much, much better in 60p/60i than it ever could in 24p.
 
Spent some time playing around with 60p and 24p with autofocus. Does snap in faster in 60p. Too bad for us 24p types, but at least I understand...which helps.
 
hmm..now i am realizing that i have no idea how auto-focus works. why is it's alacrity dependant on the frame rate?
 
zaarc said:
hmm..now i am realizing that i have no idea how auto-focus works. why is it's alacrity dependant on the frame rate?
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Because it is working based on the information is being fed...and less fps means less information and slower response from AF.
I use AF when covering weddings and to be honest...Im using it more than I use MF and Im realy pleased with it as Im shooting 50i with the DVX and 50i or 50p with the HMC because I want to be able to create smooth slow motion for my video clips. I know most of the people here hates interlaced but thats my workflow. However I never trust auto iris so I dont use it.
To my opinion PANASONIC has the best AF performance.
 
Any camera is going to autofocus much, much better in 60p/60i than it ever could in 24p.
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Unfortunately, certain packages I offer specifically need to be at 24p.

Can anyone comment on other cameras' auto-focus capability at 24p compared to the 150's? I still haven't made a purchase yet, so I want to make sure I get the best model for my needs.
 
Have you considered using a consumer camera for certain shots that require fast auto-focus ?

I am astounded at how fast the auto-focus is with the Pansonic TM700 ( the new TM900 just replaced it ) and how good the image-stabilizer is. Hand-held at full zoom the IS keeps the image rock solid.

I would never use it as my main camera, but for certain situations it might make a lot of sense.
 
Jim Simon said:
During weddings, for example, I carry the camera around on a monopod at the reception. This allows me to easily reach the camera over the crowd on the dance floor. I can zoom with the rocker, but trying to also manually focus that is just not something I want to be doing, especially since the viewfinder is 4 to 5 feet away from my face under those conditions.

The camera I choose needs to auto-focus well.
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I also do that for a few shots during the reception. But I stay fully zoomed out. I just avoid to zoom in when shooting in these conditions.
 
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