Do you know where I can find their V-Mount vs AB plates for conversion?
Aputure Light Storm LS 1s Review
- Thread starter Erik Naso
- Start date
Do you know where I can find their V-Mount vs AB plates for conversion?
Erik Naso
Veteran
adaptation
Active member
Just asking if im the only one here, im having problems with V-mount batteries(switronix non-hypercore). They seem to shut down after 5-10mins of running above 90% - is anyone able to run their lightstorm 1s with V mount batteries at 100% for an extended period of time?
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Has anyone tried the LS 1S through a medium Chimera Quartz Pro? I really like the quality of light mine gives and I have had it forever so the front screen has an appealing "bleached Muslin" quality to it, it's far from bright white. But very nice for lighting talent. I also have the egg crate for the Medium Chimera. I would have to bring a beefy steel light stand and I would use the speed ring from my Mighty Mole, there is no way the yolk on the Aputure could hold that kind of weight and leverage but two stands (one for Aputure and one to hold the speed ring and Chimera) isn't insurmountable. I've used it with my Arri 1k open face and it works nicely so if the LS 1S is outputting similar levels, could be a very nice setup as a key for two shots or wider framing that I can get now with my existing wimpy LED panels and a small Chimera.
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Not sure if this helps, but a few days ago I connected this V-mount / Sony NPF adapter to a LS1C, set to daylight at 100% with a couple Sony batteries, and it was going strong for a couple hours. But the 1c at daylight uses less LEDs than the 1s, so maybe that's something.
patrickbaldwin
Well-known member
I tried one of these on a 1S and it cut out after a few seconds. I think the power draw is too much.
FrameFarmMedia
Veteran
Same here. The LS1 trips the fuse in the adapter I think.
Anyone else experiencing this when powering the LS1 with batteries? I just picked one up with a V mount plate but I still haven't purchased a battery to try it with.
Oh I see! I totally missed the NPF batt part, I thought it was tripping with a regular V mount batt attached. Any specific reason why you switched from V to gold mount? Just curious because I'm starting to buy more of these lights to build a kit and I want to make sure I make the right selection. (I don't own any specific battery yet) Thanks!
Erik Naso
Veteran
I don't have any V Mount batteries. Only use AB Gold Mounts. They are the same just a diffrent way to mount.
Some other good things to note for Light Storm users:
The LS1 nicely fits into a Tom Bihn Horizontal Brain Cell - a pretty durable hard laptop case. I recently flew with an LS1C in the brain cell, packed into a checked standard suitcase along with other stuff, and it was a great way to travel safely with the LS1 without having to get a bulkier protective case. The yoke mount sticks out a little, but otherwise the entire light fits snuggly inside.
I guess this is several months old news now, but I've just come across the D-Fuse 12" softbox that is built to fit the LS1. Previously I had tore up the smaller 9" D-fuse to fit the LS, but it was a less than stellar fit. The large size seems like a perfect combo for the Light Storm. And they sell on Amazon now.
Cheers,
Slavik
The LS1 nicely fits into a Tom Bihn Horizontal Brain Cell - a pretty durable hard laptop case. I recently flew with an LS1C in the brain cell, packed into a checked standard suitcase along with other stuff, and it was a great way to travel safely with the LS1 without having to get a bulkier protective case. The yoke mount sticks out a little, but otherwise the entire light fits snuggly inside.
I guess this is several months old news now, but I've just come across the D-Fuse 12" softbox that is built to fit the LS1. Previously I had tore up the smaller 9" D-fuse to fit the LS, but it was a less than stellar fit. The large size seems like a perfect combo for the Light Storm. And they sell on Amazon now.
Cheers,
Slavik
Never thought about putting the LS1 in a laptop case. Thanks for the tip, Slavik!
The D-Fuse softbox looks really practical but a bit too small. I personally opted for the ILED which has been mentioned here before. I wish ILED was bigger and deeper too, but it works pretty well as is.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Do you use the grid often? Any idea of what degree the grid is? Does it cut down on the output much? I have grids for all of my Chimeras but rarely use them because my current LEDs are too wimpy and the light loss makes them unusable. But it would be nice to be able to go back to using softboxes with grids so I am not always fighting spill.
puredrifting
Major Contributor
Thanks for the heads up!
I was looking for cases to carry two of these, along with the cables/chargers/batteries etc. Laptop bags are good for carrying one at a time.
This Tenba is a good bag, but expensive. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1074947-REG/tenba_636_551_1x1_led_2_panel_case.html
Has anyone tried this: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-x-12-12-in-x-8-in-aluminum-case-69317.html ?
This Tenba is a good bag, but expensive. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1074947-REG/tenba_636_551_1x1_led_2_panel_case.html
Has anyone tried this: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-x-12-12-in-x-8-in-aluminum-case-69317.html ?
puredrifting
Major Contributor
I fly a lot so my pair of LS 1S will live in a Storm ATA case with a handle and built in casters. LED panels, in general, are kind of delicate, I think they are a better bet for hard cases. Storms are just as good as Pelicans and a lot cheaper.
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QuickHitRecord
Veteran
I shot a micro budget short last weekend. During the week prior, the gaffer and I tested out my daylight LS1s against my Alzo 3200s and his Alzo fluorescents (kind of like Divas). The CRI of these lights really shines when looking at them side by side with lower CRI lights. We all know this, but seeing it was something else.
We used my pair of LS1s plus one that he bought after our test as our keylight for most shots. The remote controls were really handy for dialing in ratios when the lights were mounted to the ceiling (though it seemed like they needed to be turned on once before the remote became active).
A few screen grabs:
The only problem that we experienced was that one light was getting exceptionally hot and started cutting in and out. This also affected the ballast/controller, which became too hot to touch. Even though the other lights were cranked up to 90% plus as well, we only had any trouble with the one. The only way that we could get through a take was to drop the light intensity by 1% via remote. That would buy us four or five minutes before the light would start cutting out again. Then we'd have to drop it by another percentage. I'm wondering if we were working with a bad outlet, or if it was just a bad unit (this was the brand new unit that the gaffer had just purchased). Has this happened to anyone before?
We used my pair of LS1s plus one that he bought after our test as our keylight for most shots. The remote controls were really handy for dialing in ratios when the lights were mounted to the ceiling (though it seemed like they needed to be turned on once before the remote became active).
A few screen grabs:
The only problem that we experienced was that one light was getting exceptionally hot and started cutting in and out. This also affected the ballast/controller, which became too hot to touch. Even though the other lights were cranked up to 90% plus as well, we only had any trouble with the one. The only way that we could get through a take was to drop the light intensity by 1% via remote. That would buy us four or five minutes before the light would start cutting out again. Then we'd have to drop it by another percentage. I'm wondering if we were working with a bad outlet, or if it was just a bad unit (this was the brand new unit that the gaffer had just purchased). Has this happened to anyone before?