Alzo 300 LED light

Hm, after more thought if the guy doing the review got f8 at 2000 ISO, that's only f4 at 500 ISO.

I know with a 500w tungsten lamp in a 24x36" softbox at 1 meter I have measured f4 @ 800 ISO, or also 42 foot candles.

There's no way then that this is anywhere near the proclaimed 9000 lux @ 1 meter (which converted would be 850 foot candles.)

This Alzo seems no better than sticking two 85w CFLs in a softbox using y-splitter.
 
hm, this is from the comments section of the C47 review video:
" I went back to re-measure and realized the Alzo dimmer was cranked down 2 clicks - a whole stop. I re-tested and it's pretty close to a 1K equivalent. "

The guy was upset first as his measurements showed the equivalent of 750W. The guy from the review also states output similar to a 1KW.

I'll order and report back when I have it, might take a while getting it to Germany though.
 
I'll have one by Tues this week (actually two of them). I'm shooting all week and will put these into the system alongside my Sola 6 and the Westcott Skylux Led's (which are really nice). I'll post some thoughts during the week...
 
Great, looking forward to your findings!

Skylux should be a good comparison both color and output wise.

Looking at lux and beam angle of the SkyLux, the Alzo could get near the same output with a beam angle of around 45° which would give it 4300 lumen (4460 lumen SkyLux, 60°).
 
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stip said:
hm, this is from the comments section of the C47 review video:
" I went back to re-measure and realized the Alzo dimmer was cranked down 2 clicks - a whole stop. I re-tested and it's pretty close to a 1K equivalent. "

The guy was upset first as his measurements showed the equivalent of 750W. The guy from the review also states output similar to a 1KW.

I'll order and report back when I have it, might take a while getting it to Germany though.
Click to expand...

That guy corrected himself 3 times on that post of the review, we need someone who actually knows how to use a light meter to do the test.

:)

Dusty - if you get one and can let us know some facts about it that would be great.
 
I would say that light is like a 350-400 watt filament bulb. Or 6400 lumens. Or 10,500 lux at 3 feet.
Anything more and I eat my hat.
 
forbyfiev said:
just something to think about: get an HID ballast kit from Alzo and a 150 HID lamp from Richard and put them together with a photoflood or fresnel fixture. OR an ETC PAR with Richards lamps. Great color and a lot of footcandles. Add diffusion of course, but then you have a fixture with some throw and control.
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Won't work. The Alzo ballast will strike Richard's bulb, but it "flickers" - actually, the filament sort of wobbles at many angles, and it comes and goes, it's a physical flicker, not electronic, like 2x a second versus something measured in KHZ. The Alzo (according to some sources) is actually a 140 watt ballast.

The Alzo bulb and ballast together are a really really useful and affordable combo. Great temp and CRI. Not enough oomph for a softbox IMO, and I've fresnel'd it - it's just not a projector style bulb like Richard's, so the inefficient fresnel + frosted bulb is somewhat a waste of time. The Alzo is a very "soft" bulb and DYNAMITE in a china ball. Seriously, very sweet for it's output. Kickass in a simple clip-light behind diffusion - but it's not a 575 HMI by any means.

Richard's bulb is what you want in a fresnel, and you can use 1/4-20 bolts to make a standoff getting it in the sweet spot of the reflector/lens. However, Richard's ballast is just stupid-expensive. But the bulb works just fine with a 150w aquarium ballast - generally about $130 new.

Now, back to LEDs...
 
Norman99 said:
I would say that light is like a 350-400 watt filament bulb. Or 6400 lumens. Or 10,500 lux at 3 feet.
Anything more and I eat my hat.
Click to expand...

It does not beat your cute little 24.000 lumen beast, that's for sure; just ordered that Alzo, wanted an LED to use with parabolic umbrella and it's built for that.

Still curious for dustylense's comparison to Westcott Skylux and Sola 6.
 
I put a 250w CFL grow-ops light (6000k) in a medium softbox (24x36) and I guarantee you it will be about the same output as this LED 3000, actually if not MORE and for only $52.

But time will tell,.
 
I emailed ALZO for some specs regarding beam spread on the 3000 at varying distances. However, from the data provided on their site (if accurate), you could get about 55FC at 12 feet with a F/4 stop and 400-500ISO. If the beam angle is decent at that distance, you'd have a very nice, "almost hard" light with good barn door control.
Hopefully, they will be replying promptly.
Ken
 
I actually like the light that 5400K CFLs in softboxes give but they are a pain to take with you on set, really no option for me.
 
kplo said:
I emailed ALZO for some specs regarding beam spread on the 3000 at varying distances. However, from the data provided on their site (if accurate), you could get about 55FC at 12 feet with a F/4 stop and 400-500ISO. If the beam angle is decent at that distance, you'd have a very nice, "almost hard" light with good barn door control.
Hopefully, they will be replying promptly.
Ken
Click to expand...

If that's what it is that's pretty decent. But when I converted 9000 lux to footcandles I got something like 850 fc at 1 meter. this sounds way too high.
 
Here is a handy little tool to convert Lux to lumens or otherwise, note that you have to specify distance as well as the all important BEAM ANGLE.

http://www.ledrise.com/shop_content.php?coID=19

There is also another calculator that converts LUX to an EV (equivalent exposure) value in F stops / shutter speed/ ASA values.
Once you have the lux value ( or lumen value) at a certain distance, then the appropriate F stop and shutter speed will be calculated at a particular ASA.
If I find the link I will post it. I left it somewhere...
Idealy a lux meter ( incident reading) would be great.
 
Norman99 said:
Found it
http://www.ndavidking.com/Tech Articles/EV to Lux conversion tables.pdf

The LUX will determine the EV value ( 1st chart)
Then that EV value will determine the combos. (2nd chart)
The chart is for ASA 100. add a stop or speed for each doubling of ASA.
Click to expand...

That is handy, thanks.

The problem is that extrapolating the light output of bulb/light combo at various distances beyond the stated spec of X Lux at 1 meter is not really possible. Last summer I tested all of the lights I have for their light output over a 50 foot measured space in my backyard with an analog light meter. What I found that measured light output has very little to do with the rated wattage output of the bulb. I found that bulb and fixture design are much more important than pure rated wattage output and that, based on those elements, the light output at 1 meter (Or 5 feet, which was my starting point) does not correspond to expected graduated fall off over various distances. The lamest performers, bulb wise, I found were CFLs. The best, in pure light output were, of course, my 1k PAR 64 cans with very narrow spot bulbs. In the same fixtures, medium spot bulbs had very much less light out put. One of the biggest surprise I found was that the light output from 375 watt R30 clear reflector photoflood bulbs (That I picked up a new old stock case of cheap off of eBay) dang near beat the light output of a 750 watt Fresnel at all but narrow spot close in. Now the pure light output is just one consideration of a bulb/fixture combo, but from my tests I really did gain a healthy skepticism for light manufactures rated specs, without a full photometric chart.

When Alzo says that these light are "1K" equivalent output, that statement needs to be taken with a huge grain of salt and an understanding of the influence of bulb and fixture design on output. I do think that the light would have much more punch than any comparable combo of CFLs though. Especially when diffused.

I am intrigued by these lights. I look forward to the hands on reports.
 
David G. Smith said:
When Alzo says that these light are "1K" equivalent.....
Click to expand...

...they probably added the reflector, did not use any diffusion whatever, and measured dead center of the beam and sadly did not give any indication of the beam diameter.

Anyway, yes, very eager to see results. This would still be great to run off a high power inverter from car for some stuff.

:)
 
David, the "expected gradual falloff at various distances" is not always a constant as a wide beam has a much steeper falloff than a barrow beam. It can be expected to follow the inverse square law of light falloff if the beam is 45 degrees as it is very predictable ( doubling the distance requires 4X the amount of light to be the same brightness, of every time the distance doubled there is 4X less lumens). For example, a very very narrow beam of 2 degrees will have almost the same bright spot ( brightness wise) at a huge distance varying perhaps only 5-10% up to 100ft. because it does not spread out it's lumens all over the place, it keeps them collimated within a narrow field. A wide reflector, on the other hand, will have a fast falloff after a distance doubling and the light level will be much less, perhaps 8X less than the medium ( 45 degree beam) reflector. It has to spread the lumens over a much wider area. The amount of lumens are the same wether a flood, medium or narrow beam. I can safely say that my AA powered led pocket flashlight is brighter than a 1K soft light because at 50 feet away my flashlight projects a small ultrabright spot, wheres the softlight spreads the light at a wider area but is much less bright at that same 50ft. distance. That is why when photometrics are done, the distance and beam angle must always be given in order to truly guage performance.
 
starcentral said:
...they probably added the reflector, did not use any diffusion whatever, and measured dead center of the beam and sadly did not give any indication of the beam diameter./QUOTE]

Yep. That's traditionally how FC readings are measured (+ or - reflector as applicable).
Can you tell I love the Mole catalogs with their extensive photometrics?
Also, beam angle measurements have a 50% edge falloff included. BTW: I just divide LUX by ten to get FC...close enough for all practical purposes.
I really like the potential versatility of a unit like this: Daylight fill, punch through windows for wall breaks, night exteriors with car battery and inverter, as you mentioned, or a small Honda putt putt generator, etc., for under $350 bucks.

Ken
Click to expand...
 
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