AF100 LCD screen

I think there's a difference to dial in a specific Kelvin, like you do in preset 3.2K, 5.6K or Var, or when you do a white balancing. The later gets your colours spot on and the slight green cast of the LCD is only a minor difference compared to when you do manual Kelvins in preset. Get the colours off and that green cast is very evident.
 
OK, well I was able to see this green cast issue - pretty ugly actually - but very very very easy to make it go away.

I'd seen this thread and was wondering why only some had seen it and others not at all, just as I hadnt.

When I first got my cam I threw it into manual WB before I even turned it on and white balanced to 3200K source - PERFECT, looked good. And then from there basically doing same for WB and not seeing this green cast. A few times I popped it on the preset when I knew the light was about 3200K and still not seeing it. That is UNTIL I used the preset under a fluorescent office fixture and boom I thought I was in the matrix. WOW so green. Easily fixed though as I then flicked the camera over to manual WB and voila perfect again, problem solved.

The next thing I did was check the result under a small kino unit first with 3200K and then with 5500K lamps. Now these lamps like other fluoro's do have a green spike - but its a lot less than your standard consumer lamps and I didnt see the issue at all.

Last night a couple of fluo street lamps, put WB on preset 3200K and there it is. Manual WB and gone.

Now this would go along way to explaining why many (like me) never saw it and anyone who generally does a manual WB won't.

So at this point I'll assume the following. The WB presets (or dialed in number) on the camera are perfectly accurate and operate within a certain tolerance to a spike in green as is common with fluoro fixtures. When that spike goes beyond a certain point, as is common in household or office lights, the greencast shows up. However, during a manual white balance the sensor can SEE the green spike and compensates for a perfect white balance.

So yes, I found the green cast issue, but just as quickly cleared it.

Any thoughts on that from others? Is this what you experience? I mean Ive done it over and over and the results are always 100% the same as what I noted above.

SO, just dont use the 3200k preset under crappy household / office fuoro lamps I wouldnt recommend doing it anyway.
 
That's cool Noel, but not quite the issue.

I don't really feel like going too deeply into it, but the issue wasn't the white balance, but the offset of the colors of the LCD versus the EVF and other calibrated sources when looking at the same image. Dat's all :P
 
Noel Evans said:
Any thoughts on that from others? Is this what you experience? I mean Ive done it over and over and the results are always 100% the same as what I noted above.
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Hi Noel,

My experience mimics yours to the "T" (or however many Ts are in your comprehensive post.) I've only had our camera for about a day and half, but I came to the same conclusion.

I think there are two issues (neither of which is anything that prevents this camera from being a very useable tool - not that anyone is claiming as much, I'm just saying): the first issue is a slightly green LCD. Take it leave it, that's what we have. Here's to hoping some update helps us fine tune it to individual taste.

Then there's the issue you're talking about (which I believe further compounds the LCD issue.) I've found that all the presets (3.2, 5.6, and all the manually assigned Kelvin balance points) will skew massively to the green under "run of the mill" fluo lighting. We have lots of cheap fluo fixtures of varying temps at the office and they all skew dramatically towards the green using the presets.

Lately I've been using an ExpoDisc for manual white balancing. Even though I'm not a camera op or a dp, I'm a white balancing maniac (or so my DP says). When manual WB is completed, as you noted, colours are spot on.

The white balance under fluo issue is one that can be proved - or at least further explored. I can shoot a test if needed - silly me didn't actually record any footage last night when I was trying to figure out what was going on.

What I did last night was I lit a poster with a junky 6500K fluo - real DIY, hardware store type stuff. I would flip between a VAR 6.5K setup and a manually white balanced setup and could watch the image colours shift and see it on the camera's outputs.

Today, in daylight, the preset and the ExpoDisc white balance matched up perfectly.

Editman was right and you hit the nail on the head.
 
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Noel -- if what you're saying is the issue, then it's completely unrelated to the LCD. It sounds like what you're saying is that the camera is seeing the green spike in the lights, which makes sense -- the lights are green, after all. But that would mean that it should show up in the footage too. It was my understanding that people were talking about the LCD only, and that it had no effect on the footage...

Obviously you cannot use the preset white balance under green-spike fluos and expect good results. Use the preset under tungsten light and it'll look great, but fluos (and especially green-spike office fluos etc) are notorious for not having a complete spectrum and for showing up very green. They are, in fact, the reason that the "fluo" matrix even exists.
 
Well thats exactly how it comes up for me Barry, Ive repeated and repeated for the exact same result. And yes, it was no big surprise to see that when using a preset that it didnt counter the fluo green spike, as how would it "see" it. I want to reiterate though its only under cheap crappy commercial or household fuoro's. And regardless of what setting Im at a manual white balance corrects it.

But this is the only circumstance where I see the green shift on the LCD as well, so assumed it could be the issue.
 
As evidenced, by these quick "very compressed" exports
 

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But -- again, to clarify -- those aren't pictures of the monitor, right? Those are pictures of the actual footage. Which would mean that the LCD was accurately displaying what the camera was seeing, correct?
 
Barry_Green said:
But -- again, to clarify -- those aren't pictures of the monitor, right? Those are pictures of the actual footage. Which would mean that the LCD was accurately displaying what the camera was seeing, correct?
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Absolutely correct.

So Ill come back to this green cast on the LCD in general monitoring, apart from what I have described here, my image colours on the LCD match almost to the T what is shown in these screengrabs I took from the timeline.
 
Petros Kolyvas said:
the first issue is a slightly green LCD. Take it leave it, that's what we have.
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But thats the point Im not getting any green cast outside of what Ive described and illustrated here. Not saying others arent, I would just like people to at least look exactly what Ive described and follow what I did and see if its the same for them.
 
How about the AF100's built-in color bar generator? On mine, the yellow looks a little green-ish on the LCD. That isn't affected by the white balance.
 
Should have mentioned, checked it comparatively to 3 rec.709 calibrated sources and no issue there for me.
 
Matthew B said:
Could it be an NTSC issue that we PAL folks don't have to worry about?
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I wouldnt say so as I switched the system frequency to 59.94 and was exactly the same outcome.

And I would fairly safely assume the only difference between the AF102EN (Aust model) compared to the AF100 US model is the software state the camera ships as - 50Hz v 59.94. They all come from the same factory.
 
My LCD is not green; I've run through a great many different settings and have never observed a green cast. Bars look good, whites look clean.

Good shooting and best regards,

Leo
 
I have the 102. My LCD does have a greenish look to it compare to the EVF. This is regardless of whatever WB setting.
 
Got my production model. The LCD has a very faint greenish bias to it, the EVF doesn't. No big deal. The EVF is more color-accurate.
 
Is it possible to assign EVF black and white on/off to a function button? I currently keep it in bw mode for much easier focus in red, but would be nice to toggle it quickly when I don't have my field monitor or I am in bright sun and want to check color.
 
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