Advice on AF102

E

evanrm

Active member
Hi all,

I am looking to purchase an AF102 (that's the Australian model number) and was looking for some advice on some of the quoted items with it. I've read up as much as I think I can, and was looking to hear from some experienced users if possible.
The questions I have are about the audio gear. I have been quoted the Sennheiser K6-P-C powering module and the ME66 microphone. Given that I understand that the AF102 has phantom power, do I need a powering module? Secondly, is the Sennheiser ME66 any good? I suspect it'll be okay (being a well recognised brand), but would a more expensive model or even a different brand (such as Rode) be a better buy?

I'm looking to shoot short films and so forth. A mix of inside and outside shooting.

Any advice would be appreciated. FYI the rest of the kit is a Pelican case, Rycote softie, some SD cards and the Lumix 14-140mm lens (which I will purchase separately as I can get it for around $800 vs $1400 with the camera).

Thanks,
Evan
 
Yes, you need the powering module even with phantom power. I have a k6 and it gets the job done. I use it mounted on the camera during run and gun, and on a mic stand during sit down interviews. With mics, you kinda get what you pay for, So more $$ equals better sound, but I've been happy with the k6/me66.
 
evanrm said:
Hi all,

I am looking to purchase an AF102 (that's the Australian model number) and was looking for some advice on some of the quoted items with it. I've read up as much as I think I can, and was looking to hear from some experienced users if possible.
The questions I have are about the audio gear. I have been quoted the Sennheiser K6-P-C powering module and the ME66 microphone. Given that I understand that the AF102 has phantom power, do I need a powering module? Secondly, is the Sennheiser ME66 any good? I suspect it'll be okay (being a well recognised brand), but would a more expensive model or even a different brand (such as Rode) be a better buy?

I'm looking to shoot short films and so forth. A mix of inside and outside shooting.

Any advice would be appreciated. FYI the rest of the kit is a Pelican case, Rycote softie, some SD cards and the Lumix 14-140mm lens (which I will purchase separately as I can get it for around $800 vs $1400 with the camera).

Thanks,
Evan
Click to expand...

The ME66 is not a 'bad' mic, but not steller by any means. If you want an awesome mic, get the Sennheiser 416, but it is around a $1K, so a bit pricey. For the price of the ME-66, I would get a Rode NTG-1 or NTG-2 I personally have a Rode NTG-1, and often borrow a 416 for higher end work when my sound guy is booked. (I picked the NTG-1 over the 2 as they are the same mic, the 1 is phantom power only and a little more compact... and I always have phantom power on hand). I find the cheaper Rodes to be better than the cheaper Sennheisers, and really like the sound of the NTGs compared to the ME66 when I had both around one day to play with. I would buy the Sennheiser 416 over a Rode NTG-3 in the $800-1K price range, but in the $200-300 range, the NTG-1 or 2 (depending on if you want the option to not use phantom power) are the best bang for buck, IMHO. Also, Rode makes a softie that is comparable to the Roycote in quality and wind noise performance, and is 1/2 the price.

As for lenses, I would reconsider the 14-140, especially if you are looking to shoot movies with it. It is a bit slow, the autofocus I have heard leaves alot to be desired (if that matters to you), and franly the ergonomics of the current lumix zooms do not lent them selves well to film style shooting... The fly by wire focus ring being a major issue that comes to mind. Dont think of it as the HVX lens for the AF100 or anything (it does not exist). I would consider taking the money and buying three good quality relatively fast primes if you want to shoot film, and then work on building up a lens set from there. For $800 you can get 3-4 nice nikons if you play your cards right and look around, and you will be able to use them with pretty much any future camera.
 
Oliver Rush said:
The ME66 is not a 'bad' mic, but not steller by any means. If you want an awesome mic, get the Sennheiser 416, but it is around a $1K, so a bit pricey. For the price of the ME-66, I would get a Rode NTG-1 or NTG-2 I personally have a Rode NTG-1, and often borrow a 416 for higher end work when my sound guy is booked. (I picked the NTG-1 over the 2 as they are the same mic, the 1 is phantom power only and a little more compact... and I always have phantom power on hand). I find the cheaper Rodes to be better than the cheaper Sennheisers, and really like the sound of the NTGs compared to the ME66 when I had both around one day to play with. I would buy the Sennheiser 416 over a Rode NTG-3 in the $800-1K price range, but in the $200-300 range, the NTG-1 or 2 (depending on if you want the option to not use phantom power) are the best bang for buck, IMHO. Also, Rode makes a softie that is comparable to the Roycote in quality and wind noise performance, and is 1/2 the price.

As for lenses, I would reconsider the 14-140, especially if you are looking to shoot movies with it. It is a bit slow, the autofocus I have heard leaves alot to be desired (if that matters to you), and franly the ergonomics of the current lumix zooms do not lent them selves well to film style shooting... The fly by wire focus ring being a major issue that comes to mind. Dont think of it as the HVX lens for the AF100 or anything (it does not exist). I would consider taking the money and buying three good quality relatively fast primes if you want to shoot film, and then work on building up a lens set from there. For $800 you can get 3-4 nice nikons if you play your cards right and look around, and you will be able to use them with pretty much any future camera.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, Oliver. That's some good advice that I'll look into. I wasn't going to look at other manufacturers lenses at this stage due to the crop factor, but I'll shop around.

Is a powering module necessary, given that it has phantom power?

Evan
 
tacotim said:
Yes, you need the powering module even with phantom power. I have a k6 and it gets the job done. I use it mounted on the camera during run and gun, and on a mic stand during sit down interviews. With mics, you kinda get what you pay for, So more $$ equals better sound, but I've been happy with the k6/me66.
Click to expand...

Oh hey. Thanks for that. I missed this reply when browsing on my iphone. Okay, so I need the powering module anyway. Forgive me for being dense, but I assume the same will apply to Rode and other brand mics?

Thanks for the reply,
Evan
 
evanrm said:
Thanks for the reply, Oliver. That's some good advice that I'll look into. I wasn't going to look at other manufacturers lenses at this stage due to the crop factor, but I'll shop around.

Is a powering module necessary, given that it has phantom power?

Evan
Click to expand...

nope, I got the one with out the power module (NTG1) as it was smaller and I always have phantom power. Alot of people I know got the NTG2 just incase, but I perfer the more compact size.

As for lenses, don't think in terms of crop factor. It is a major source of confusion, and alot of people misunderstand the concept. The term is a misnomer in itself. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens regardless of sensor size. So your 50mm m4/3 lens have the same image as a 50mm FF lens on the af100. The field of view (FOV) changes between sensor sizes, that is it, and only the 5D shoots video using a FF35mm sensor (FF is for still photography), all other movie cameras normally use a s35 sensor, which would be considered a 'crop sensor' next to a FF camera like the 5D, but it is all relative... i digress... My point is that a 14mm lumix m4/3 lens will have the same image as my nikon mounted tokina @14mm at the same iris setting on the af100. The tokina just covers a larger sensor size, which will give it a larger FOV due to the larger sensor.
 
Vaughan Wood said:
Hi Evan,

Where are you located? Have you sourced your camera yet?
Click to expand...

+1 can probably point you in the right direction.

On the mic - for the same price (actually a little cheaper) in Australia as the ME66, you can grab a Rode NTG-3, a far better mic in my book.
 
Vaughan Wood said:
Hi Evan,

Where are you located? Have you sourced your camera yet?

I'm in Apsendale, Melbourne.

Cheers,

Vaughan
Click to expand...

Hi Vaughan,

I'm in Canberra, and looking to get the camera (or at least the body) through Videocraft.

Evan
 
Last edited:
Oliver Rush said:
nope, I got the one with out the power module (NTG1) as it was smaller and I always have phantom power. Alot of people I know got the NTG2 just incase, but I perfer the more compact size.
Click to expand...

Hang on, I'm getting two different opinions on this. tacotim claims that I need the powering module, and you say I don't.

As for lenses, don't think in terms of crop factor. It is a major source of confusion, and alot of people misunderstand the concept. The term is a misnomer in itself. A 50mm lens is a 50mm lens regardless of sensor size. So your 50mm m4/3 lens have the same image as a 50mm FF lens on the af100. The field of view (FOV) changes between sensor sizes, that is it, and only the 5D shoots video using a FF35mm sensor (FF is for still photography), all other movie cameras normally use a s35 sensor, which would be considered a 'crop sensor' next to a FF camera like the 5D, but it is all relative... i digress... My point is that a 14mm lumix m4/3 lens will have the same image as my nikon mounted tokina @14mm at the same iris setting on the af100. The tokina just covers a larger sensor size, which will give it a larger FOV due to the larger sensor.
Click to expand...

Okay. I thought it was something like a 14mm lens would become the equivalent of a 28mm lens. I'll look into it more. I've been scouring amazon and ebay for lens. I found a website that recommends the Canon fd primes, and has a few screenshots. The close shots are where they seem better. The kit Lumix appears to fare less well in low light, which is something that I'm considering.

Thanks for the advice,

Evan
 
Noel Evans said:
+1 can probably point you in the right direction.

On the mic - for the same price (actually a little cheaper) in Australia as the ME66, you can grab a Rode NTG-3, a far better mic in my book.
Click to expand...

Hmmmmmm. Videocraft sell the NTG-3 for $500+. I'll have to shop around. Thanks for the advice.

Evan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top