A7S PicPro Settings

Nah, it had to be graded a bit to get the colors more normal. I used the LOG Impulz lut to move it to Cineon color space then I believe the Kodak film stock. On top of that I used Fast Color Corrector to get the contrast to my liking and fix the white balance a bit.
 
Certainly. Here's my custom picture profile:

Black Level: -5
Gamma: Cine2
Black Gamma: Middle
Knee: Auto
Color Mode: Still
Saturation: +7
Color Phase: 0
Color Depth: everything at zero
Detail: +3


I used the settings for this video:

And here's a frame grab from the video:

A7S_VideoStill_DerranNL.jpg

I seem to be having difficulties showing it at 100% in this post so here's a direct link to the full size image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2f0e9hj5lj...l_DerranNL.png

I also did a bit more tweaking with this profile after filming and now have Color Phase at +2 and Color Depth at: R=0, G=0, B=+4, C=+3, M=0, Y=+2
 
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Shot a short film on the a7s last weekend, just to test it out and see what works and not. A dimly lit room ofc to test low light. Only stills for now with a quick dirty grade (too much for my taste and not matching too good, but I also wanted to see how much I could push it. It's quite flexible), just levels and curves, no LUTs or film convert. Will do proper grade when I've edited the short. Used Kholi's SLOG (really like it, man!). Canon 24-70 f/2.8. Started out with FF, but switched to crop mode when I felt that I needed more tele. Didn't really see any difference, stayed at ISO 3200 all the time.

2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_1.jpg
2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_2.jpg

2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_3.jpg
2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_4.jpg

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2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_6.jpg
 
I like your colours, man!

Shot a short film on the a7s last weekend, just to test it out and see what works and not. A dimly lit room ofc to test low light. Only stills for now with a quick dirty grade (too much for my taste and not matching too good, but I also wanted to see how much I could push it. It's quite flexible), just levels and curves, no LUTs or film convert. Will do proper grade when I've edited the short. Used Kholi's SLOG (really like it, man!). Canon 24-70 f/2.8. Started out with FF, but switched to crop mode when I felt that I needed more tele. Didn't really see any difference, stayed at ISO 3200 all the time.

2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_1.jpg
2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_2.jpg

2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_3.jpg
2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_4.jpg

2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_5.jpg
2014_08_18_218_68f1367480542bb546e9_6.jpg
 
Are you guys finding a noticeable difference between using tungsten lights and daylight balanced lights with the camera? Does the a7s sensor react differently to Tungsten vs Daylight. What is everyone using to light these wonderful images I'm seeing here. Excluding the daylight and night shots of course. Erik? Cyork? Ssvet?
Thanks in advance.
 
dcarsten, you seem to have a nice grasp on the camera. your clips look very detailed. could you state the lens you used? thank you for doing this.
 
Ok I see. and here lies why your shots look drastically set apart from others I've seen, lol. I guess the old saying rings true it's not just about the camera but the glass you put it front as well. thanks again for sharing.
 
That is a very helpful test dcarstens thank you, I am still trying to nail down my slog2 workflow. Most of what I have shot with the camera has been pp2 and 4
 
Awesome. That saved me some time: I was about to test exactly the same thing: how much can I over/under expose a normal image before it becomes unusable? It seems the answer is +2 and -2, any more than that and the image starts to break. Not bad at all, but a bit of a letdown, I was hoping for one or two stops more of range (this allows me to shoot somebody in an open shadow and have a white sunlit background that is not clipped, but if it is a relatively closed shadow, like a narrow street or something like that, the difference with the sunlit areas can easily be 5 or 6 stops, which means you have to choose whether you crush the highlights in the background or you get a noisy subject and try to fix it later with NR).

Also, you can see why sgamut2 is giving some unpleasant results: skin goes towards yellow in the highlights but towards red in the shadows, which will create undesired color patches. And that's the kind of non-linear transformation that sgamut3 intended to avoid.
 
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