60 amp Bates plug?

Azmyth said:
I'm really interested in these Par 64 cans. I never thought about using them because I thought they were strictly for stage.
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What kind of bulbs did you think were used in these guys? These are all PAR 64 bulbs.

3595919025_2be28e78e8.jpg


BOOM! :thumbsup:
 
Azmyth said:
I'm really interested in these Par 64 cans. I never thought about using them because I thought they were strictly for stage.
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They are versatile lights. When I shot with them we used them with the highly reflective narrow beam bulbs and put them so they shot shafts of lights up through a grated bridge behind the zombie aliens (don't ask....). With a a little smoke they looked great. They can be used for many other uses also. Now the cheaper DJ or stage versions will need a female junior stand adaptors that bolt to the yoke so you can use them with stands, but that is not a big deal. Also check and make sure if you by cheap ones on the internet that they are wired with cords, with plugs. Because the cheap ones are stage lights, this cord is going to be very short, and they will (probably) not be switched so they will be on as long as they are pluged on. Just put a switched extension cord on them (of good quality). Other lighting controls are also avaialble like snoots and gel frames. They are handy lights to have.

I just dropped hammer on this set. It is cheaper then dinner and a movie.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4x-PAR-64-STAGE-THEATRE-CHURCH-BULB-LIGHTING-PAR-64-CAN-/350359858297?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193132c79
 
phudsontx said:
I always keep a few Source 4 pars around. The improved efficiency of these lights make the 575 watt bulb a very good choice when building multi lamp reflector set-ups.

They are a bit more expensive than the standard par 64 but the price is well worth it IMO.
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The Source 4 Par looks very cool. Thanks for the heads up. I like that you change the beam and spread by changing the lens. Looks like they are proprietery and not as readily available as the Par 64 cans, but still very affordable. Nice.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Source_Four_PAR

http://www.stagelightingstore.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3740/.f?gclid=CJ-9vPbb9aECFQEhDQodEDv2FQ

EDIT:

It looks like there are a lot of designs that are similar to the Source 4 Pars. These do not look like they are as high a wattage as the source 4, but still interesting.

http://www.guitaraudio.com/lighting/par-cans
 
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David G. Smith said:
They are versatile lights. When I shot with them we used them with the highly reflective narrow beam bulbs and put them so they shot shafts of lights up through a grated bridge behind the zombie aliens (don't ask....). With a a little smoke they looked great. They can be used for many other uses also. Now the cheaper DJ or stage versions will need a female junior stand adaptors that bolt to the yoke so you can use them with stands, but that is not a big deal. Also check and make sure if you by cheap ones on the internet that they are wired with cords, with plugs. Because the cheap ones are stage lights, this cord is going to be very short, and they will (probably) not be switched so they will be on as long as they are pluged on. Just put a switched extension cord on them (of good quality). Other lighting controls are also avaialble like snoots and gel frames. They are handy lights to have.

I just dropped hammer on this set. It is cheaper then dinner and a movie.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4x-PAR-64-STAGE-THEATRE-CHURCH-BULB-LIGHTING-PAR-64-CAN-/350359858297?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193132c79
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See, I learn something new here every day. I'm a former musician and I have been in front of PAR 64 can lights for many years.. just never knew you could use them for this purpose. I actually have access to a whole slew of them due to that fact. I would still look at buying a couple. That set you just bought, what is the light equivalent as far as wattage is concerned, compared to say my cheap 800w chinese red heads?
 
Azmyth said:
See, I learn something new here every day. I'm a former musician and I have been in front of PAR 64 can lights for many years.. just never knew you could use them for this purpose. I actually have access to a whole slew of them due to that fact. I would still look at buying a couple. That set you just bought, what is the light equivalent as far as wattage is concerned, compared to say my cheap 800w chinese red heads?
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Yes, the cheap set I bougth will take from 500 to 1000 watt bulbs. The bulbs come in very narrow spot (VNSP), narrow spot (NSP), normal flood (NFL) and wide flood (WFL). The bulbs are in the $25ish range. I am going to set up this kit with two with VNSP bulbs and two with WFL bulbs. I think that would be the most useful. Of course I would still have the ablity to trick them out with the other bulbs if I need to. The bulbs are mostly regular tungsten bulbs, with a color temp of 3200K, but I think they also make dichoric bulbs for 5000K output if need be (I think those are pretty pricey, but I haven't checked). Throwing a CTB gel in front of them ain't now big deal either (except for the filter factor).

EDIT:

Just to be clear, for $70 bucks, plus shipping, I am not making a life long investment in lighting gear and I know that these lights are not going to be of great build quality. I have a specific use for them coming up. So if they don't last forever, I am cool with that.
 
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Thanks David.

Well see thats kinda why I mentioned that I have access to some already without the need to buy them. I only need them for this specific project right now, and while they might be useful for other projects.. if you got em for free? why not use em.
 
Ryan Patrick O'Hara said:
@ Drew... yeah those new lights are awesome. I suggested going 1.8 HMI in my first reply to this thread. It's hands down the most powerful, simple, (but not cheap) solution on a 20amp circuit. It will put out tungsten light equivalent around 8k give or take. Right? Last I checked HMI's power to light efficiency was around 4 0r 4.5 times greater then tungsten.
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It's hard to say exactly what they're equivalent to, but the 4-4.5 figure is what I've always heard as well. The reason the MaxiPAR is brighter is because it's not losing light through the fresnel lens, but I don't really know how much the lens cuts. It is much brighter than a 1.8K HMI fresnel though.
 
Azmyth said:
Thanks David.

Well see thats kinda why I mentioned that I have access to some already without the need to buy them. I only need them for this specific project right now, and while they might be useful for other projects.. if you got em for free? why not use em.
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Absolutely. Never buy when you can borrow....
 
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