New Panasonic AG HC-X2 (HC-X1/UX180 successor)

Related to Panasonic HC-X2:
  • How have you assigned the USER BUTTONS? Here is my choice:
    • USER1: initiate RTMP Streaming
    • USER2: activate Fast Zoom (don't know why it doesn't remember this setting when powered off)
    • USER3: DRS ON/OFF, it is handy in challenging lightning
    • USER4: Audio out selection (it lets me cycle through listen CH1, listen CH2, both L/R, mixed)
    • USER5: LCD backlight (useful for increasing the backlight on sunny locations but lower it indoors to save battery life)
    • USER6: OIS (default)
    • USER7: D.ZOOM (default)
    • USER8: ZONE (configured for focus and iris, to when I tap a screen region (typically a speaking head), it automatically adjusts the focus and the exposure)
  • How do you usually operate your camera, what are your basic settings? Here is my workflow:
    • Switch to Manual mode
    • White Balance: ATW (AUTO), I found that it usually nails it. Set it so that chA is AWB, and chB is for setting it manually with a white card.
    • Gain: 0dB (MANUAL)
    • Shutter: 1/100 (MANUAL). We shoot basically in MOV 1080p50 422 Long-GOP 100Mbps. No need to go All-I as the longGOP edits like butter in our experience.
    • Iris: STD (Standard AUTO Iris). If we need to manual adjust it we just press iris and use the lens ring
    • Focus: AF (AUTO) or MANUAL it depends on the situation. Sometimes it hunts.
    • ND: Manual
    • Stabilizer: ON in PAN/TILT as it is the only mode that works well and it does not "jump".
I would love to know your settings or "best" tips/tricks!
 
NorBro said:
I haven't, but I'd rather sell it on DVXuser, or I'll just keep it.

~$2K isn't a lot of money (in the grand scheme of cameras) and it's an incredibly loaded system to have even if it's just on the shelf for now. If I could use it in the future for a job instead of renting $500-$1000 worth of stuff, that's great.

And if I only keep it for the ND filters for the 5x a year I go out and randomly shoot surfing, I can live with that.

___

As far as the accessories, I never liked the crane-style build for the Canon cinema cameras, so I personally went for the B for a few reasons:

(1) I didn't like the monitor's mounting and overall experience (nothing like with the stills cameras).
(2) Rarely use an EVF and the one on the back of that kind of camera just doesn't work for me personally.
(3) Handle is way too bulky, IMO.
(4) The grip is SUPER nice, it's awesome, and I actually bought it for the B (it's also sold separately, as is the monitor and handle) but returned it because I wanted to continue keeping the camera compact.

I also convinced myself it will be smaller and easier to fly on a gimbal for all of those times I'll be flying it on a gimbal, but that hasn't happened yet. lol
Click to expand...

Sometimes, it makes more sense to hold on certain tools for backup. I still have an HMC80 that I have not used for few years and hold on it for backup just in case. I do not shoot AVCHD any more but it was a great camera for conferences. Other times it's best to sell ASAP when there is no need for it as value will evaporate! In the mid 1990's my first non-linear editing system was a Newtek Flyer Toaster system (for those who remember that technology!) I bought it used about 10k, original owner paid 22k and it was about three years old. It had couple 40GB 5.25" drives that sold at $3600 each then. Four years later I sold it for $3500, I felt I was lucky as within couple years HD became the new standard. I guess it's all about timing if you can read the future:huh:.
 
I was at NAB for a few days last week (one of the largest conferences in the United States) and as you can imagine there were tons of cameras.

These kind of events were always flooded with camcorders but didn't even see one - and I'm watching like a hawk, lol, although of course didn't see every camera in the building.
 
NorBro said:
I was at NAB for a few days last week (one of the largest conferences in the United States) and as you can imagine there were tons of cameras.

These kind of events were always flooded with camcorders but didn't even see one - and I'm watching like a hawk, lol, although of course didn't see every camera in the building.
Click to expand...

What do you mean with that?
 
I guess I mean I was surprised to not see any camcorders.

I saw probably over 100 mirrorless' (don't know which models exactly but I could see they were Canon/Sony stills cameras) and then I saw what looked like either the FX6 or FX9 all rigged out (maybe even the FS7, IDK), one RED, and the rest were a few Canon C300/200-type bodies.

The big presentations were filmed with the usual in-house TV broadcast cameras, but there were no camcorders on the exhibitor floors that I ran into.

I stopped using camcorders for these events a long time ago - even when I needed a smooth zoom - because the IQ wasn't working for me, but even just a few years ago (pre-Covid) I remember seeing more.
 
Camcorders do have a place in broadcast when the budgets are not so high to use ENG/EFP/Studio cameres with B4 lenses. That is schools, sports streamings, small broadcast productions, etc.
DSLR cameras offer the best quality/price combination thanks to using bigger chips and becoming mainstream.
Like everything in life is a compromise:

DSLRS/Mirrorless: great quality and price but limited zoom range and lack of proper controls
1" camcorders: not so great quality but decent zoom and price range. Lots of image adjustments
Broadcast shoulder mount cameras, ENG, EFP, Studio with b4 mount: Great quality, great adjustability, great connectibity, large lens selection but comes at a very high-price






NorBro said:
I guess I mean I was surprised to not see any camcorders.

I saw probably over 100 mirrorless' (don't know which models exactly but I could see they were Canon/Sony stills cameras) and then I saw what looked like either the FX6 or FX9 all rigged out (maybe even the FS7, IDK), one RED, and the rest were a few Canon C300/200-type bodies.

The big presentations were filmed with the usual in-house TV broadcast cameras, but there were no camcorders on the exhibitor floors that I ran into.

I stopped using camcorders for these events a long time ago - even when I needed a smooth zoom - because the IQ wasn't working for me, but even just a few years ago (pre-Covid) I remember seeing more.
Click to expand...
 
I didn't even see any of those shoulder cameras...the broadcast cameras I mentioned were those big boxes that are on those crazy tripods.

But I hear you, they all have a place.
 
The people who buy eng cameras probably don't go to NAB to make a purchasing decision. These camera types haven't changed much.
 
Not anymore because a much more sophisticated internet exists, but back in the day that was the entire point of those conferences...going and trying out the gear, learning about it, talking to people at the booths.

The closest you got to a YouTuber is the guy/gal behind the counter talking about how high-definition is a game-changer.
 
mitteg said:
Related to Panasonic HC-X2:
  • How have you assigned the USER BUTTONS? Here is my choice:
    • USER1: initiate RTMP Streaming
    • USER2: activate Fast Zoom (don't know why it doesn't remember this setting when powered off)
    • USER3: DRS ON/OFF, it is handy in challenging lightning
    • USER4: Audio out selection (it lets me cycle through listen CH1, listen CH2, both L/R, mixed)
    • USER5: LCD backlight (useful for increasing the backlight on sunny locations but lower it indoors to save battery life)
    • USER6: OIS (default)
    • USER7: D.ZOOM (default)
    • USER8: ZONE (configured for focus and iris, to when I tap a screen region (typically a speaking head), it automatically adjusts the focus and the exposure)
  • How do you usually operate your camera, what are your basic settings? Here is my workflow:
    • Switch to Manual mode
    • White Balance: ATW (AUTO), I found that it usually nails it. Set it so that chA is AWB, and chB is for setting it manually with a white card.
    • Gain: 0dB (MANUAL)
    • Shutter: 1/100 (MANUAL). We shoot basically in MOV 1080p50 422 Long-GOP 100Mbps. No need to go All-I as the longGOP edits like butter in our experience.
    • Iris: STD (Standard AUTO Iris). If we need to manual adjust it we just press iris and use the lens ring
    • Focus: AF (AUTO) or MANUAL it depends on the situation. Sometimes it hunts.
    • ND: Manual
    • Stabilizer: ON in PAN/TILT as it is the only mode that works well and it does not "jump".
I would love to know your settings or "best" tips/tricks!
Click to expand...

nobody?
 
Does anyone have comments on the image quality of the HC-X2/X20? I am noticing what reminds me of the effect generated by noise reduction software like neat video. I haven't changed anything in the scene file.

I'm comparing this image to that of other Panny camcorders I've owned (AC90, AC30, DVX200, CX350, UX90), and finding it "plasticky."
 
Last edited:
To me its comparable to the CX350. Do not see the plasticky effect, in fact, there is some texture (noise) in the picture.
 
bluesgeek said:
I'm comparing this image to that of other Panny camcorders I've owned (AC90, AC30, DVX200, CX350, UX90), and finding it "plasticky."
Click to expand...

I've used the HC-X2 on a number of jobs. There's a small amount of noise in the picture - but the HC-X2 certainly produces a better image than the HC-X2000 under the same conditions (I have one of those, too).

There are enough image controls available to tweak to your preference. A bit of DRS seems to keep the highlights from blocking up in contrasty situations.
 
This applies to a number of Panasonic camcorders, but since this is the newest, I'll post it here.

I called parts today to order some spare AC power adapters. In the past, I was able to purchase them for about $50 each. Ever since we've been provided with a battery charger that requires the AC adapter to be dedicated to it, I've made sure to order extras so one can live with the cam, and one with the battery charging station on my bench.(Don't get me started on what a horrible implementation that is. Oh, and the AC cable is too short to even reach the floor if the tripod is set to any height over 5-6 feet.)

Today I was told the AC adapters are no long being sold separately but only as a kit with a battery charging bay. (Really? I don't need 2-4 battery bay ports for every one battery that comes with the camera. I need backup AC adapters.)

But, here's the kicker. The price of the AC adapter / charging bay kit is... $426.63.

I do have a question for anyone who might know. Is that real, or does the parts department have an incorrect price listing?

SMH
 
As long as you know the voltage, size of the dc jack, and it’s polarity you can buy 3rd party power supply for far cheaper. It’s a good practice to use a dedicated power adapter for the battery charger and another that stays in your camera bag, to avoid forgetting it at home.
 
Peter C. said:
As long as you know the voltage, size of the dc jack, and it’s polarity you can buy 3rd party power supply for far cheaper. It’s a good practice to use a dedicated power adapter for the battery charger and another that stays in your camera bag, to avoid forgetting it at home.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Peter. I have purchased inexpensive 3rd-party power supplies off of Amazon. First, I have always been in the habit of using OEM power supplies for cameras and computers though. I just find it a disappointment that Panny will not sell them without the charger, and that the price of the kit is so inflated.
 
bluesgeek said:
Thank you, Peter. I have purchased inexpensive 3rd-party power supplies off of Amazon. First, I have always been in the habit of using OEM power supplies for cameras and computers though. I just find it a disappointment that Panny will not sell them without the charger, and that the price of the kit is so inflated.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's annoying but a lot of manufactures to this.
 
Hello, I have detected a possible problem or thing to improve. When using auto iris, the iris wheel becomes the exposure compensation function and it is very easy to touch it inadvertently and inadvertently change the setting. Can it be disabled somehow? Thank you
 
mitteg said:
Hello, I have detected a possible problem or thing to improve. When using auto iris, the iris wheel becomes the exposure compensation function and it is very easy to touch it inadvertently and inadvertently change the setting. Can it be disabled somehow? Thank you
Click to expand...
I've gotten into trouble with this when set to auto iris, brushing the iris ring while using the zoom ring.
 
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