Digital storage does deteriorate, an expample is a hard drive, after time the magnetic code gets weak and will eventially go away completely. Most drive manufactures recommend pulling them off the shelf's once a year and copying them over to another hard drive to restore the strength of the magnetic signals.
HMC150 vs. XH A1...Help!
- Thread starter dUNIT
- Start date
Digital storage does deteriorate, an expample is a hard drive, after time the magnetic code gets weak and will eventially go away completely. Most drive manufactures recommend pulling them off the shelf's once a year and copying them over to another hard drive to restore the strength of the magnetic signals.
That's not totally correct.
Every mfg. has reccomendations, usually listed as MTBF. Thats for an operating, not stored drive. The MTBF is usually listed as 5 years and there is no "pull it out of storage and copy it" reccomendation.
I still have some 20 MB (not GB) drives from the 80s that still work fine and I have never copied the data to refresh it.
There are a lot of data management web-sites that cover this.
green thumb
Well-known member
i saw some pretty good looking stuff on vimeo. posting from my phone so i'm too lazy to link, but it should come up pretty easy with a search.
MarkMiller
New member
Sample HMC150 Frames
Sample HMC150 Frames
Hi,
I came across this forum thread and thought you might want to see some frames from footage I shot this week of a stage performance at full zoom.
Settings: Gamma=CineLike-D, gain=+6, Iris= either open or 4.0, matrix-Norm1, DRS=off, recording format=PH 720p.
The guitarist in two of my frames was standing under a bright stage light.
I wish I had the camera longer, but I was only able to borrow it for a week. I had difficulties brightening the stage behind the performers without overexposing/clipping the performers under the stage lights. The HVX200 I have been using seems to do a better job brightening up the picture without overexposing the bright areas. With the zebra pattern set to 75%, the HMC150 overexposed the highlights while the HVX200 does not.
Mark
Sample HMC150 Frames
Hi,
I came across this forum thread and thought you might want to see some frames from footage I shot this week of a stage performance at full zoom.
Settings: Gamma=CineLike-D, gain=+6, Iris= either open or 4.0, matrix-Norm1, DRS=off, recording format=PH 720p.
The guitarist in two of my frames was standing under a bright stage light.
I wish I had the camera longer, but I was only able to borrow it for a week. I had difficulties brightening the stage behind the performers without overexposing/clipping the performers under the stage lights. The HVX200 I have been using seems to do a better job brightening up the picture without overexposing the bright areas. With the zebra pattern set to 75%, the HMC150 overexposed the highlights while the HVX200 does not.
Mark
Attachments
Hm, I usually dislike versus threads, but here goes.
First of all, who gives a crap about storing your footage on tape? You're going to digitize that and store the raw on a hard drive, just like you do footage from a solid state camera! Unless you plan to store your footage on P2 cards permanently, it's going on a hard drive, and then we're back to square one.
Second of all, who cares about component and HDMI? HD-SDI is the professional standard. My HDTV has both component and HDMI, and the quality is exactly the same. So what's your point?
This is just ridiculous. Newer doesn't always means better. I explained a while back in another thread why the HMC would not work for everyone, and you can take a look at it here. Bottom line is that you always need to consider what you need the camera for and whether you can handle the flaws of the camera.
leteeci
Well-known member
miniDV tapes..
miniDV tapes..
Hi Guys,
I don't know what are you talking about loosing data on miniDV tapes..
I have a series of tapes recorded 10 years ago, and they work like it was shoot yesterday..
On the other hand, I have some fotos on the HDD for three years not moving arround and it is allready impossible to open the,, lost completely..
Cheers,
:beer:
miniDV tapes..
Hi Guys,
I don't know what are you talking about loosing data on miniDV tapes..
I have a series of tapes recorded 10 years ago, and they work like it was shoot yesterday..
On the other hand, I have some fotos on the HDD for three years not moving arround and it is allready impossible to open the,, lost completely..
Cheers,
:beer:
MarkMiller
New member
Iris/Gain settings
Iris/Gain settings
Good question. First of all, I am not a professional cameraman although I have been recording Sunday morning services for four years now. The reason I use a gain of +6 is because if I don't then the musicians not under the spot lights are dark and grainy. With a gain of +6 I am able to open the Iris for the musicians not under the spotlights and then I am able to close it to f/4 for those in the spot lights and/or the main speaker. I also read that an f-stop value between f/5 and f/8 produces the sharpest pictures (Television Production Handbook 9th Edition). Bottom line, these settings look best to me. I am wide open to suggestions however.
Regards,
Mark
Iris/Gain settings
Good question. First of all, I am not a professional cameraman although I have been recording Sunday morning services for four years now. The reason I use a gain of +6 is because if I don't then the musicians not under the spot lights are dark and grainy. With a gain of +6 I am able to open the Iris for the musicians not under the spotlights and then I am able to close it to f/4 for those in the spot lights and/or the main speaker. I also read that an f-stop value between f/5 and f/8 produces the sharpest pictures (Television Production Handbook 9th Edition). Bottom line, these settings look best to me. I am wide open to suggestions however.
Regards,
Mark
pietro jona
Active member
(quote) "I also read that an f-stop value between f/5 and f/8 produces the sharpest pictures (Television Production Handbook 9th Edition)."
Not with small sensor cameras..
Not with small sensor cameras..
Last edited:
Actually, this is true for all cameras. Stopping down a lens always improves sharpness across the board and even though you're getting a cropped FOV the image is still going to be sharper if the lens is stopped down.
pietro jona
Active member
Theorically you are right. But with small sensors, and therefore small lenses, diffraction problems come in as soon as you start stopping down.
Even the very good, professional and expensive 35mm lenses loose quality when stopped down to -say- f22. With shorter lenses this happens way before.
Nd filters are there for a reason, not only not to use faster shutter speeds.
Even the very good, professional and expensive 35mm lenses loose quality when stopped down to -say- f22. With shorter lenses this happens way before.
Nd filters are there for a reason, not only not to use faster shutter speeds.
ecking
Veteran
That argument doesn't even make any sense unless your trying to claim the 150 shoots UHD...one thing does not have anything to do with the other.
Barry_Green
Moderator
Diffraction at HD resolution starts to kick in at f/4 for the red wavelength. The smaller the pixels, the more affected the imaging system will be. You can get away with f/8 on an HVX200, but I wouldn't normally run f/8 on an XHA1 or HPX300. Lenses typically perform best around f/4 to f/5.6, yes, but when you're dealing with small highly-dense chips you really have to avoid deeper f-stops. As a normal practice I'd probably say f/5.6 is about the limit you'd ever want to go to on something like an XHA1 or HPX300 or V7U.
MarkMiller
New member
Would you please explain your comment in more detail? The HMC150 and HVX200 have 1/3 inch CCDs while more expensive cameras have 2/3 inch CCDs. What is considered a small sensor camera and what f-stop values work best with small sensor cameras verses large sensor cameras?
Thanks,
Mark