Homemade Steadicam

the cost is still up for debate. right now, i've spent about 250-300. All of the cost is for the metal and hardware since i'm machining the pieces myself. Im working on the vest at the moment, and I might use a kite boarding vest (150-200 dollars)

Vest_Harness.jpg


still not sure of my options yet.

I'll keep you guys updated on the price though...
 
Shred,
The vest needs to provide a ridged attachment point to your torso for the arm.

Generally the simplest (and best) design is a stiff front plate/spar that has soft peices that run behind your back. These "straps" should be sort of stiff, but flexible (Leather works great), these should then be lightly padded to distribute the weight.

The whole vest should be ridged in front and fit snugly, all without restricting any movement or putting preasure on any one area (like the back).

- Mikko
 
i plan on reinforcing a pre-made vest with aluminum and steel. If i use this vest, I will reinforce the waste belt with aluminum plating, and have a back mounted steel beam to where the arm will attach to. I'll also have a section going up my back parallel to my spine made of aluminum. This should reinforce the vest so it can take the weight
 
I'd recomend goign with a front mount vest. Backmount vests can cause all sorts of trouble as they bypass the body's natrual support system - do it wrong and you can cause soem serious problems.

Font mount vests are much harder to get wrong to the point of injury.

- Mikko
 
Mikko is right about the front mount (of course he is). I just went through a discovery process building my own rig and the vest was one of the trickiest parts. I had originally gone with a back-mounted design, but initial testing proved that the design wasn't quite right and I was really feeling it in my back.. Not a good thing, so i went back to the drawing board and redesigned everything for a front mount. So far it works perfectly and is considerably more comfortable.

Go Front Mount, go!
 
Alright, got my vest. Check this guy out...he looks like 50 cent. oh wait, that's me

1590780-b38


1590778-7d7


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I ran out of aluminum, but this is what the back exoskeleton would look like. The waist plate will be bent, of course.
1590781-565


The waist plate will slide into the harness back. There is a pocket that wraps around the waste of the vest for the belt to go through.
1590782-35a



Think it will work? It better.
 
shred444 said:
haha I'm glad you guys like the progress so far. It's been a busy couple of weeks.

The last part I need to finish is the vest. I'm waiting for some pieces to be welded...and I dont know any welders.
Click to expand...


If I was near you I would do the welding for you. You could always check at your local community college and see if they have a welding class. If so, see if they will weld it for you.

Looks good. When you going to start building mine. :thumbsup:
 
North Carolina isnt that far... right?

I sent my stuff off to a local welder on friday. It should be done tomorrow(monday). I'll post images when i get it.

After that.... I'm 95% done. I just need to assemble all the pieces
 
Not willing to sound negative, but I wouldn't say your steadicam could be called "homemade", as it needs CNC.

I am not sure everybody will have a CNC machine at home. Where I live, in Rio de Janeiro, I don't even know where to find a CNC service to make the holes at.

Is there a more "home" way to do the holes?
 
Oh yes, the holes can be drilled with a 55/64 drill bit. But since i didnt feel like searching everywhere for that bit, it was easier for my to use a CNC.

The results were a little overkill for my application, but hey, why not?
 
Ahhh, nice thread. I bought Cody's book over a year ago. I have almost everything cut and ready to go. I have just been waiting until we move and I have my shop set up. Thanks for posting so many pics, they will be a huge help once I start piecing this thing together. If only I could afford a remote FF for my 35mm adapter so I could actually use the rig...
 
shred444 said:
Oh yes, the holes can be drilled with a 55/64 drill bit. But since i didnt feel like searching everywhere for that bit, it was easier for my to use a CNC.

The results were a little overkill for my application, but hey, why not?
Click to expand...

In any case you will also need a precision table drill for the holes, and that large diameter drill may not be easily available.

How do you fix the ball bearins to the holes?

Sorry if my question sounds a bit simplistic.
 
yup, youll need a drill press...which arent very expensive any more. $150 bucks can buy you a nice one at home depot. As long as your careful, you can be pretty accurate with that and a vice.

The bearings can be pounded in with a piece of wood and a hammer. They are rollerblade bearings, so they are pretty rugged. I had a bearing press available to me, so of course i used that, but again...it was overkill.
 
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