Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

petri63 said:
You might as well just go with an external LCD monitor that can flip the image. Some models do apparently.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize this, I will have to check into one. Thanks for the info.

zakaree said:
use a magnent and go into setting and turn off mirror (or was it on??) i dont know.. but it works like a charm
Click to expand...

A magnet? Somewhere on the cam? I don't think I would be to keen on putting a magnet next to my new cam. Where exactly do you put the magnet?
 
snodart said:
This is what I was curious about.

Having to use mirrors is a bummer. I wish there was a better way. Does the setting on your cam just flip the image horizontally? ...and then the mirrors flip the image vertically? I wonder if there is a piece of hardware (a small box or something) that could do all the flipping, then the image could be output from the hardware device to a separate LCD monitor. This could come in handy for steadicam or jib use when a separate LCD monitor is usually used.

Or, if the DVX can flip the image horizontally, couldn't I just mount a separate LCD monitor upsidedown for the jib or steadicam?
Click to expand...

I ordered this http://www.varizoom.com/products/monitors/vztft7u.html but from B&H (cheaper)

It doesn't say it on their website but it has a flip mode so you don't have to find a way to mount it upside down. It should arrive today.

I just didn't want to be rigging up more stuff and the magnet thing just doesn't set well with me.......something about magnets and electronics. So I bit the bullet and bought the monitor that I wanted anyway for low mode shots.

Having tested my adapter I'm happy with the results, enough so that I'm starting on another one to refine the first........ya learn best by doing.

As for Ebay.....yep.....it can be a pain but I only had to go through the bidding process with the Canon 50mm 1.4, for everything else........"buy it now". I just bought enough parts to build 2 more adapters but at least I don't have to buy another lens.

I now have my microcrystalline wax so my next project will be making the wax focus screen. I do like my Nikon type D that I lucked out on and got for $11.99 on Ebay (opps did have to bid on that), but I really want to do the wax screen just to see if I can refine the grain.

Then comes the DIY support for the lens as it's really hard to rack focus and not cause the whole mess to move around. It can be done but it's too much work to try and not jiggle it.

First test from my LowBay35 is here

http://www.stickypod.com/stickypod_upload/uploads/LowBay35_Test.mov

and you can really see the need for support of the lens not to mention the importance of a clean screen.

New model will hopefully use the wax screen and be shorter to maybe reduce some of the vignetting but I will try Ed's suggestion to add on another +4 close-up.

Marlene
 
Panasonic - "monitor flip"

Panasonic - "monitor flip"

I'm sure Panasonic could easily add a "monitor flip" button to upcoming cameras. Seems like it could come in good use....and the feature is already present when you flip the screen over towards the front of the camera but it's only triggered when you flip it to a certain point.....maybe a small toggle switch on the monitor itself sort of like what we have for zoom controls on the handle.


Just some food for thought.....ok, enough food...time for beer!! :beer:
 
Flips both I understand. Don't know about 4x3 because I only shoot 16:9 but they do make one that's 4x3.

If you'd like I'll report back on it after I've tested it out. Should get it today or tomorrow.

Marlene
 
I posted this in another thread for PaPa but I'll restate it here in case snodart isn't following the other thread.

Ok.....here's the skinny on the Varizoom VZ-TFT-7 from the printed instructions that come with the unit. "If shooting in 4:3 mode, select Normal to display the image in it's natural 4:3 aspect ratio with black bars along the sides" "If shooting in 16:9 mode, select Full to display the image in its natural 16:9 apsect ratio"

Marlene
 
marlenedegrood said:
First test from my LowBay35 is here

http://www.stickypod.com/stickypod_upload/uploads/LowBay35_Test.mov
Click to expand...


You are almost there Marlene. I think the first thing I'm going to do tomorrow morning is to get out and check for the Nikon D Focus screen :)

I don't know what kind of PVC tubing we have here in Europe, but I'll see and report in case someone else from the old world' d like to engage on the Edwierdo's journey of no return.

I feel like it :)

I consider myself a handyman. I'll put it to trial, just as you folks dared to. Maybe someone will benefit out of it. It would be a landmark :)

Best regards,
nenaD
 
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Marele: wax screens are tricky but do show the least grain. I could never get one to work just right. Keep us posted on the progress on that, I wish you luck :) Oh and thats a sweet screen, it puts my lowly mirror to shame :(

I agree on the flip within the LCD idea. It flips already when you turn it over for self shot, why not add a menu that flips it horizontaly? Hellll-loooo, Panasonic!!!

NenaD- welcome to this crazy project, I hope you can find the PVC you need. As a side note to our friends overseas: if you cant find the PVC you want, perhaps I could sell it to you (at cost) and ship it over.

My Linhof screen is taking too much time, so I will begin shooting my video tutorials with a generic screen in the meantime.

Oh and another thing, someone earlier spoke of the difficulty in drilling set screws in the empty UV filter ring that is attached to the Cokin. Yes it is hard if the empty ring is shallow. Try taking the ring to HD (or better yet Ace Hardware: they have better selection) and finding a screw that is narrow enough to screw into the side without damaging the threads. They are out there, I think they are 3mm screws. Its ether that or buy a filter ring that is less shallow (old Toshiba ones are great-they are very deep).
 
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Hey Ed, a question .... I found a Nikon D focusing screen - it has a small spot in the center that is clear. Is that normal? Will it ruin the effect inside the adapter?
 
I'm not Ed but I can tell you that what you have is not the right screen. You do not want the clear center, it needs to be completely matte with no grids, lines or circles. You will see whatever is on your screen, as it's the screen that you are focused on.

Marlene
 
My day of luck...

My day of luck...

this morning I went to the plumbase in search for the parts needed.. of course in uk we don't seem to have what you guys have in US. Anyway got there and absolutly nothing seems to be right. so I decided to buy 3 parts for 10 quid and go back home to have a play...after 20 minutes of playing and getting of one part, things started to take shape in the way that I wasn't expecting.

I cut the hole in the cap screwed my mount for fujinon lenses and then realised that inside the cap tube there was a sort of lip. I stuck my nikon screen in one 49mm uv without the glass, and for fun I screw another uv with the glass this time to protect the screen. then I pushed the lot in the cap tube against the lips, look in it and guess what.... full focus on infinity....incredible, the lips were just at the right distance from the lense... how lucky, then now on the other part of plastic that goes around the cap I inserted a ring 49 to 52 by pushing hard I must admit, and here you go the thing is here ready in front of me. I looked at it, and for a second I swear it looked at me saying great job :dankk2: ....

Now just need a 52 to 58 ring screw my x10 58mmm on it and then a 58 to 72 and screw my x4 on it and the whole lot in my camera. I made some test hand held today and the image is georgous... the paint is now drying in my garage and hopfully soon I'll post a picture and shots... the funny part of that is that this morning when I woke I was thinking that would be great if I could have it finish in 2 or 3 weeks... and now here I am by tomorrow I should be shouting with it... bloody great....

Anthony
 
By the way ED, many thanks for giving me hope,light,energy,advice and everything else in building the 35 adapter... I know that you will say once again that it wasn't your design, butlet me tell you that without you it would be just an idea..it's great to see people like pushing whole group of people the way you did. there has been more people succeding in bulding since you started your thread than ever before... so thanks again and congratulation...

By the way, I start to think of a little box that would contain a prism that I can screw on my 35adapter on the 52mm ring and out of the box 52mm ring as well...I will gather infos and probably start a new thread...I would like to be able to work with you on this one see if we can come up with an idea that won't loose every stops avalaible.....
 
thats great news moochy! I cant wait to see some of your footage. As you can see my adapter was just a general guide to get started, to help light a fire under those who have been wondering if they can do this since so many others are and charging for it.

Many like you are finding ways to modify and customize it. Discovering alternatives and such, to make it better. And upgrades too? A prisim to flip it upright...go moochy go... :)
 
forsammyray said:
Hey Ed, a question .... I found a Nikon D focusing screen - it has a small spot in the center that is clear. Is that normal? Will it ruin the effect inside the adapter?
Click to expand...
Marlene is correct, the Nikon D screen used for this design should have no circles/dots/grids/hatch marks. It is a plain matte GG screen:
7.jpg


By the way I found this pic on Google- NEVER place this or any other screen down on paper, keep it in its box or rest it on a towel. And never clean them with paper towel, tissues, or any other paper product (they are all still chips of wood, now matter how soft they might feel). Only use cotton cloths or microfiber cloths.
 
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So, I’m starting to piece together my adapter today and ran into a few problems. Any help would be great!


First off, I bought the Fotodiox 58mm (medium format) lens hood and the cannon 50mm (1.4) lens. The 50mm and 58mm don’t match up, for obvious reasons. I didn’t see anything mentioned about this. Did I get the wrong hood or am I just missing something?


Pics below show the hood. The second pic shows the removable 58mm-62mm ring that is locked into the hood. Do I just need a 50mm-62mm ring like this
instead?


hood.jpg




hood_ring.jpg



Another problem that I ran into is that the 50mm canon lens has various appendages sticking off the camera side of the lens. With the FD mount attached to the PVC cap, there is no way for the lens to fit on the mount as the appendages hit the PVC. I have yet to cut the 20mm hole in the PVC cap, but I can see that the appendages of the lens will not fit within the 20mm hole and will hit the PVC around the hole.

I thought of making or buying some sort of extension for the FD mount to allow these items to clear the PVC, but one of the items is an appendage that engages the ability of the F-stop control. This appendage apparently turns to engage the F-stop when the lens is attached to an actual camera. The other issue with and extension for the FD mount would be that it would change the distance from the lens to the D screen. I’m not sure what to do. I would hate to try and modify the 50mm lens to make the F-stop control always engaged, but I don’t see many more options. Does the hole have to be 20mm?

Here is the lens without the FD mount on.

without_fd.jpg


And here (pic below) is the lens with the FD mount on the lense. Parts of the lens stick out past the FD mount and would hit the PVC cap.

with_fd.jpg


The pic below shows the lever that engages the control of the F-stop. Even if I was to cut a bigger hole so that the excess parts of the lens would fit into the PVC cap, this lever would still have to be moved somehow to engage the f-stop.

f_stop.jpg


I'm not sure where to go from here, so any help or advice would be great.

Thanks!
 
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