Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.
- Thread starter Ed Kishel
- Start date
I've sort of got a mount for the minolta, its a plastic cover thingy that i'm going to drill a hole through, it should do until I can find a proper mount.
The other thing is that in New Zealand no-one seems to know that +10 macros exist, the best that i can find is a +1, +2 and +4 connected together to achieve whatever power your need . Do you know if this is going to be a good idea, i.e. lots of little macro lenses vs. one big +10??
The other thing is that in New Zealand no-one seems to know that +10 macros exist, the best that i can find is a +1, +2 and +4 connected together to achieve whatever power your need . Do you know if this is going to be a good idea, i.e. lots of little macro lenses vs. one big +10??
I have the FX1E and my adapter is now finished. I managed to build in a way that I can change the mount just by unscrewing the front part, I can even change the gg as long as it's 2" diameter. there is no glue at all in my system can take it apart and rebuild in a minute. I'm over the moon... nearly I'm still waiting for my down size ring to be able to fix it on my camera, but when I have it I will send picture of it, a still shot 1920*1080, one with nikon screen and one with gg and plano convexe from thorlabs so we can compare grain...(I tried wax today, it was a disaster...)
and of course I will send a little short movie....(please no mad expectation, I'm no spielberg...Yet)
till then good luck everyone and a big thank you to Ed again....
and of course I will send a little short movie....(please no mad expectation, I'm no spielberg...Yet)
till then good luck everyone and a big thank you to Ed again....
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ALBASIC Dude
Member
Moochy, I'm excited to hear abou the Thorlabs GG. I just got their catalog in the mail today, and I'm ready to order the GG and condenser lens if your adapter looks good. Did you mount the GG and the condenser lens in one empty UV ring or two? How?
ALBASIC Dude said:
I haven't got the parts from them yet, what I have is a 1500 square gg that I used on my first attempt of building my adapter, hence why I can say that it looks to me that the thorlabs gg seems to have less grain but I'm waiting on the 2" diameter 1500 grit gg and the planoconvex to install it in my adatpter.
no I won't put it in an empty UV because the gg and plano are 2" and the inside on my tube is 2" so no room for it. 'm just going to use a tape on circonference to make that they stay together and just slide the lot inside my tube.
As I said before I don't really need to protect the stuff to much as I can open every part of my adapter. I'm thinking of getting a compressed air can to blow any dust away if any, when I'm shooting it better than using a clothe espacially in HD, the tiniest dust looks like a meaga spot on the screen...
Any way thorlabs told me that the stuff should be with monday or tuesday, and tuesday I will also get my ring to fix the adapter on the camera, so if I'm not to tired after work I will start to put things together and publish what I can...So frustrating to have to wait for a 50 cents ring when everything is ready...Anyway let's keep cool and wait..
Just quickly off the topic if anyone uses HDV(fx1/z1 or anything) and uses a PC for editing then tell me what's your favorite editing package. I have premiere pro 2 and edius pro 3.5. edius is not as good as premiere in terms of functionality but it's all real time, even 3 line on HD color corrected plus effects...just wondering what you guys are using?
Hey moochy, $25!! thats around $40 NZ dollars, i paid $140 NZD =~$100US !! argh...i've also noticed that alot of camera accesories, ie uv lenses and rings etc are quite expensive here, 49-52 step-up rings = $17NZD ($10US)....
RE: editing software, I Avid Liquid 7 (formerly Pinnacle Liquid Edition). Its the best software when you want realtime HD and SD editing on the same timeline, it takes in just about any format you can think of and you can place it on the timeline and play it like it was a native format. Plenty of good reviews on it, in New Zealand our major TV broadcaster have all gone to Liquid.
RE: editing software, I Avid Liquid 7 (formerly Pinnacle Liquid Edition). Its the best software when you want realtime HD and SD editing on the same timeline, it takes in just about any format you can think of and you can place it on the timeline and play it like it was a native format. Plenty of good reviews on it, in New Zealand our major TV broadcaster have all gone to Liquid.
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Also another note: i was playing around with the flip-out lcd on the Sony HDV camera and found that its perfect for using with 35mm adaptors!!!
If you flip the monitor around, it corrects the vertical flip, but not the left/right...if you flip it back on itself it will still be wrong....however if you flip it back on itself but leave it slighty out (ie, not 'clicked' in) it flips the image both vertically and left/right. So you end up with a perfect solution!!! I'll post a pic soon.
If you flip the monitor around, it corrects the vertical flip, but not the left/right...if you flip it back on itself it will still be wrong....however if you flip it back on itself but leave it slighty out (ie, not 'clicked' in) it flips the image both vertically and left/right. So you end up with a perfect solution!!! I'll post a pic soon.
marlenedegrood
Flicks By Chics
snodart said:Lense mount was taken from a "Gemini auto tele converter 2x for canon FD mount" from ebay. Pic of it is below.
Hmmmm.....well all I can tell you is that I took my mount off a trashed T70 and when the lens is mounted to it, the aperture works perfectly. So my guess would be that it's the tele converter that is the problem. So you will either have to use the toothpicks/plastic or get yourself a mount off of a camera that uses FD lenses. I bought 3 T70's off Ebay for $12.95 each (pretty cheap for mounts).
Marlene
ChrisLyon
Well-known member
I have mine all built... but with nothing more than some off brand ground glass that isnt very fine. I need some better alternatives other than the nikon screen since it no longer is made by nikon. and all the ones on ebay are being eaten up by retards who outbid themselves....
http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=7598647512
http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=7598647512
Precision said:
I was just about to post the same one, I kn ew about the trick, but really we need to have something better than because shooting with this trick is a nightmare, so now I'm lokking at a solution either with prism or surface mirror to rotate the image or an lcd monitor that rotate the image.....
Precision said:Hey moochy, $25!! thats around $40 NZ dollars, i paid $140 NZD =~$100US !! argh...i've also noticed that alot of camera accesories, ie uv lenses and rings etc are quite expensive here, 49-52 step-up rings = $17NZD ($10US)....
RE: editing software, I Avid Liquid 7 (formerly Pinnacle Liquid Edition). Its the best software when you want realtime HD and SD editing on the same timeline, it takes in just about any format you can think of and you can place it on the timeline and play it like it was a native format. Plenty of good reviews on it, in New Zealand our major TV broadcaster have all gone to Liquid.
hey precision I thought england was one of the most expensive country in the world but on this one, NZ seems to be the winner. well maybe not, because the truth is (although I have a successfull business on the internet) I don't really like buying on internet or in big shops, I like my little corner shop, I can chat to the guy, and he is an expert in photography so of course instead of buying all my tv, camera and accessorie equipment on the net or big shop I decided a long time ago to get everything from this little shop, so considering the amount of money I spend every year with him I quess he must reduce some items for me. Yesterday I bought him an X Fujinon 28 mm for £15. Bargain.. Sometime I don't have to pay at all espacially for stepup rings, he has hundreds of them that used one but it does the job for me.
Also thank s for the tip on avid liquid, did you by the complete kit with the breakout box, or are talking about the sofatware on it's own?
Ed Kishel
Veteran
marlenedegrood said:
This teleconverter thingy shouldn’t be a problem if Snodart is just using the FD mounting ring from it, and discarding the rest.
When connected to the FD ring (whether on or off the PVC)- if your Canon made 50mm f1.4 stays wide open at f1.4 no matter what f-stop you set it at, AND only closes down to the set f-stop when you engage the trigger on the back, then your lens is the same as mine and therefore will work fine.
Keep in mind Canon didn’t make every 50mm f1.4 lens the same, so there may be variations. But no matter what your lens- as long as it will stay open by itself at f1.4 (or f1.8 if thats your lens) when connected to the mounting ring- you will be fine.
If not, you will need to jam something against the trigger on the back to keep it open as wide as possible.
Remember, with most DIY designs (not jut mine), you will want to stay at f1.4 most of the time anyway as you need as much light as possible to get through all that extra glass, and so you will adjust your exposure not by the Canons f-stop but by the DVX/FX1 exposure.
Also, Marlene brought up a good point earlier- some of you may need to cut the front hole of the PVC cap larger than 20mm to allow the lens to clear the back when attached. In this case if possible please adjust your measurement from 20mm to width of the FD mounting ring. This will allow full clearance. Sorry about the confusion.
-Ed
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PaPa
Major Contributor
Originally Posted by PaPa
hey man
im in the midst of building my own HD35 ( modeled very similarly to yours ) and i had a few questions for ya.
I noticed that yours is backwards. IS there a reason for this? the +10 macro lens is nowhere to be found in any store, is that why?
Do you find the way you built yours to be easier to build? Higher in Quality?
I have posted pictures in my thread http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=49382
and am having trouble deciding exactly how much i should be sanding down my pvc piping. But as i see you mounted your lens on the opposite end, did this cause any problems?
How exactly does your GG ( i think you actually used ground glass yes ) fit inside the adapter? It looks as though it would fall right inside the bigger end of the barrel, but then held in by the male end.
If you would be so kind and open yourself up to my questions as they come i would appreciate it on an epic scale.
Thanks!
-Jon
hey man
im in the midst of building my own HD35 ( modeled very similarly to yours ) and i had a few questions for ya.
I noticed that yours is backwards. IS there a reason for this? the +10 macro lens is nowhere to be found in any store, is that why?
Do you find the way you built yours to be easier to build? Higher in Quality?
I have posted pictures in my thread http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=49382
and am having trouble deciding exactly how much i should be sanding down my pvc piping. But as i see you mounted your lens on the opposite end, did this cause any problems?
How exactly does your GG ( i think you actually used ground glass yes ) fit inside the adapter? It looks as though it would fall right inside the bigger end of the barrel, but then held in by the male end.
If you would be so kind and open yourself up to my questions as they come i would appreciate it on an epic scale.
Thanks!
-Jon
moochy said:
I've got the Pro version, which is EXACTLY the same as the standard version except its got the breakout box - thats the only difference. You only need the breakout box if you want to capture from analog sources or preview out to a tv, otherwise the standard version gives you everything you need. Hope this helps