XH-A1 Image flip mod for 35mm Adaptor users

Evro

Well-known member
This goes out to anyone interested in installing a 35mm DOF adaptor on their XH-A1/G1 but does not want to buy an additional flip module.

It is a very simple addition of a mini SPST sliding switch available at any electronics shop.

The flipping switch for this model camera is actually cam driven and lives inside the LCD casing. You simply remove the 3 screws holding the back shell of the LCD and pry it apart. You might need to use some force because it clips down around the perimeter. Don't worry it wont snap as it is made of very flexible plastic - just be gentle on the LCD panel - don't twist it!!

Once you've got it open you'll see a pair of black & white wires. These need to be cut as they will need to be soldered onto the switch as shown below:

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Once that's done you will need to dig out some of the plastic ribbing in the cavity & also cut a small slot on the edge of the casing (both sides) to allow the switch toggle to protrude. I used a low wattage soldering iron with an old tip and simply meted some of the plastic away and then finished off the edges with a sharp knife (you could also use a Dremel tool if you have one). Then I filled the space with a little epoxy glue and placed the switch in it and left it to dry.

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Then I popped the back shell back on and that's it!!
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Here's the view from the bottom:
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Apologies for the blurry photos (I really need to get myself a proper digital camera.)

Enjoy!
 
wow! genius! I would pay good money for someone to do this for me...really creative, but i just dont trust myself enough =(
 
I actually surprised myself at how easy it was because I've been contemplating doing the same for my HV30, however all up it took me about an hour to complete on the XH-A1.
 
Soldering experience as a hobbyist only but don't let that dissuade you, it's only two connections!

Read this beginner's guide to soldering:
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

In a nutshell:
1) Use a low power iron (25-30 Watt) with a thin conical tip
2) Keep the tip of the iron clean and occasionally moisten it with solder
3) Warm the switch terminals & coat them with a little solder (not blobs of it)
4) Do the same for the two wires
5) Solder each wire to the switch terminal using only a light touch of solder if any because the terminal and wire will already have enough solder on them to make the joint

While you are soldering, the actual solder has a limited time that it can be applied after it has melted, so it's best to only apply solder to the joint while you are heating it - don't put solder on the tip and take it to the joint because all of the rosin (lubricant that makes solder flow) would have gone up in smoke by then and you'll find that the solder just sticks to everything in horrible globs of crap :( Do some practice runs with bits of wire & thin metal to get the feel for it.

Also You will need to make sure you get the smallest size switch you can because the switch terminals will be in very close proximity to the circuit board that the LCD is mounted on. If the switch terminals do short out with the board you will probably find that the image will remain flipped regardless of switch position so you might need to really trim back the terminals and perhaps insert a bit of electrical tape or small piece of card stock (piece of playing card) behind the switch terminals as a shield.

Other than that just be careful how you make the slot for the switch to poke out of because it can look pretty bad if you just gouge it out with a soldering iron.

Good Luck!
 
does this modification also flip it horizontally or just vertically? If it's just vertically, you still have the issue of the mirrored image.

If it does both, I'm taking out my soldering iron!
 
I wish it flipped the horizontal axis but unfortunately with the XH series this is not even a menu option (like it was on the DVX). Still I guess it's better than upside down.
 
breaches with a capital "B"

By the way, Evro says to cut both the black and the white wires (resulting in 4 connections), but there is only a SPST switch being used (2 connections). Something is missing and the pic isn't that clear.

Could we have a clarification?
 
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Yes I forgot to mention that the two wires actually plug into the tiny circuit board that the existing switch is mounted on.

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As this is no longer used you can just remove and store it somewhere safe.
Then all you have two wires left that come off the LCD circuit board that will be soldered onto your new switch :)

The picture above was taken with my A1- to prove that it still works after it's lobotomy :cheesy:

PS: I just want to add that I'm not advocating that peeps not buy an optical flip module. I think we should all support our DVX User sponsors! The reason I don't want an optical flip module is because I'm a run-n-gun event shooter taping mostly in available light and my rig needs to be light and portable for hand held use (that's why I went for the RNG35 DOF Adaptor). A rig with rails and supporting hardware is simply not practical for me.
 
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