This goes out to anyone interested in installing a 35mm DOF adaptor on their XH-A1/G1 but does not want to buy an additional flip module.
It is a very simple addition of a mini SPST sliding switch available at any electronics shop.
The flipping switch for this model camera is actually cam driven and lives inside the LCD casing. You simply remove the 3 screws holding the back shell of the LCD and pry it apart. You might need to use some force because it clips down around the perimeter. Don't worry it wont snap as it is made of very flexible plastic - just be gentle on the LCD panel - don't twist it!!
Once you've got it open you'll see a pair of black & white wires. These need to be cut as they will need to be soldered onto the switch as shown below:
Once that's done you will need to dig out some of the plastic ribbing in the cavity & also cut a small slot on the edge of the casing (both sides) to allow the switch toggle to protrude. I used a low wattage soldering iron with an old tip and simply meted some of the plastic away and then finished off the edges with a sharp knife (you could also use a Dremel tool if you have one). Then I filled the space with a little epoxy glue and placed the switch in it and left it to dry.
Then I popped the back shell back on and that's it!!
Here's the view from the bottom:
Apologies for the blurry photos (I really need to get myself a proper digital camera.)
Enjoy!
It is a very simple addition of a mini SPST sliding switch available at any electronics shop.
The flipping switch for this model camera is actually cam driven and lives inside the LCD casing. You simply remove the 3 screws holding the back shell of the LCD and pry it apart. You might need to use some force because it clips down around the perimeter. Don't worry it wont snap as it is made of very flexible plastic - just be gentle on the LCD panel - don't twist it!!
Once you've got it open you'll see a pair of black & white wires. These need to be cut as they will need to be soldered onto the switch as shown below:
Once that's done you will need to dig out some of the plastic ribbing in the cavity & also cut a small slot on the edge of the casing (both sides) to allow the switch toggle to protrude. I used a low wattage soldering iron with an old tip and simply meted some of the plastic away and then finished off the edges with a sharp knife (you could also use a Dremel tool if you have one). Then I filled the space with a little epoxy glue and placed the switch in it and left it to dry.
Then I popped the back shell back on and that's it!!
Here's the view from the bottom:
Apologies for the blurry photos (I really need to get myself a proper digital camera.)
Enjoy!