A friend will give me a pretty good deal on his xa20. Would this be a better option for making movies when compared to the t3i Im using now? I have access to a 50mm and a wide for the t3i. Havent tested them just been using the 18-55 kit. I enjoy the t3i but wondering if the xa20 will be better suited for what I want to do. I may snap a photo here and there but video is 99.9% of my use.
xa20 question
- Thread starter robbailey
- Start date
Just saw this post and if you get the Canon XA20 you will probably never go back to anything. The thing is perhaps the most awesome video cam I've ever used AND we use it for TV Broadcast without a fail. The money is right. The image is right. And the ease of use is out of this world. Just learn the menu's. It's pay dirt.
When we purchased our first one it paid for itself in two months WITH a salary for the opp coming outta the pie. The second was a no brainer. Also, you can set up for three camera shoot in minutes not hours and the gear is so light you can through it all in a back pack. I love the things.
When we purchased our first one it paid for itself in two months WITH a salary for the opp coming outta the pie. The second was a no brainer. Also, you can set up for three camera shoot in minutes not hours and the gear is so light you can through it all in a back pack. I love the things.
>>cyclone<< "I feel the same way - I love this camera. My background is advertising for national clients
and I have been waiting for a digital camera that handles just like the "old" movie cameras.
This one is all that and more (the stabilization is amazing!)."
You are absolutely right. I love watching the screen with the 2nd level stabilization on and watch the image move slowly around as it zero's in on stable. Moreover, I have noticed that on a tripod with stabilization on seems to have no effect on the final video, whereas when I used to use the Panny DVX100/HVX200 and the Sony similar series, when I turned stabilization on there was a dramatic image loss in low light . . in bright light was ok but low light the grain really got bad.
And how about the low light quality? And the gain. I've actually gotten up to about -12 and even -18 before the grain becomes noticeable and sometimes not even then. Depends on the whole frame lighting. For $2K and under on ebay or even B&H at times (sales or whatever they do to lower the price) it is a winner. One of the cameras when I bought it from B&H they had a Sony Vegas offering so I got a full offering of Sony Vegas for the full price of the camera. Since I'm a Mac user, I put the Vegas on ebay and heck lowered the price of the camera.
Imagine this camera with a 16mm (crop sensor) in it or better yet a full frame (24x36mm - true super 35) . . WOW! I wouldn't mind Iris and gain switches but from what I understand those are programmable through the extra buttons. Ever tried that? I actually haven't ever opened the manual and I shoot in manual and auto, even the cinema mode with 30p looks awesome!
and I have been waiting for a digital camera that handles just like the "old" movie cameras.
This one is all that and more (the stabilization is amazing!)."
You are absolutely right. I love watching the screen with the 2nd level stabilization on and watch the image move slowly around as it zero's in on stable. Moreover, I have noticed that on a tripod with stabilization on seems to have no effect on the final video, whereas when I used to use the Panny DVX100/HVX200 and the Sony similar series, when I turned stabilization on there was a dramatic image loss in low light . . in bright light was ok but low light the grain really got bad.
And how about the low light quality? And the gain. I've actually gotten up to about -12 and even -18 before the grain becomes noticeable and sometimes not even then. Depends on the whole frame lighting. For $2K and under on ebay or even B&H at times (sales or whatever they do to lower the price) it is a winner. One of the cameras when I bought it from B&H they had a Sony Vegas offering so I got a full offering of Sony Vegas for the full price of the camera. Since I'm a Mac user, I put the Vegas on ebay and heck lowered the price of the camera.
Imagine this camera with a 16mm (crop sensor) in it or better yet a full frame (24x36mm - true super 35) . . WOW! I wouldn't mind Iris and gain switches but from what I understand those are programmable through the extra buttons. Ever tried that? I actually haven't ever opened the manual and I shoot in manual and auto, even the cinema mode with 30p looks awesome!
cyclone
Well-known member
drdimento - yes, those are controllable by assigning them to one of the 5 custom buttons (so you don't have to dig into the menu).
Like you, I haven't gone through the manual yet - the darn thing is so intuitive...and small. My next step will be to figure the ASA of the camera and then dust off my light meter from my film days.
Like you, I haven't gone through the manual yet - the darn thing is so intuitive...and small. My next step will be to figure the ASA of the camera and then dust off my light meter from my film days.
cyclone
Well-known member
"Groovy" -absolutely. But my favorite adjective from my high school years (I'm an old guy) is "Bitchin'" - and it certainly applies to this camera. To do the assignments, tap "Function" on the screen, then "Menu", then the wrench icon and scroll down to the various buttons. As you select each one, the various options that can be assigned to each button are there. Pick the one you want! Bitchin'!
Great. Sounds like it's not difficult at all. I look forward to assigning some things accordingly. Then does the small wheel at the lower front respond to some of those elements of selection? That is, I've never used that lil feller. Only do all the changes from the screen thus far.
Old guy here too. From the 60's
Will check it out for sure. Especially, the aperture. I would like control of that feature by a rotary or adjustable button without screening the thing. Shutter speed I leave constant for th most part unless I"m outside in the bright sunshine because of its' potential negative impact on motion blur. Obviously, when done for effect I can just screen dial it in. Can you think of a time when changing of shutter is advisable other than for an incident of special effect?
For sure. And most all of what I do, even when I make my next movie, I shoot and will shoot 30p or 60i (the latter when there is more motion) because today hardly anyone looks at the so called "filmic" look other than producers. What the viewers look at today is content and composition. Even all the New York companies I film for now type in bold bring on their orders "DO NOT FILM IN 24p" Then they follow with specifications for filming in 1920x1080, 30p and preferably in AVCHD or .MOV and/or converted to Quicktime .MOV.
There is more to this response but I sent it via message because it reveals some Panasonic issues that I wanted to share with you but the last time I discussed anything negative about my Panny experience, I got blacklisted for a month or so. So, check your email for the rest of the post
Then they follow with specifications for filming in 1920x1080, 30p and preferably in AVCHD or .MOV and/or converted to Quicktime .MOV.There is more to this response but I sent it via message because it reveals some Panasonic issues that I wanted to share with you but the last time I discussed anything negative about my Panny experience, I got blacklisted for a month or so. So, check your email for the rest of the post