FS7: Would You Buy A Panasonic AU-EVA1?

Its badass raw.. which for gimbals and their short shots seems OK.. I can see that one does not want to roll raw for long interviews but for little pops with a gimbale it is OK?

(Im already shooting BMC raw on my gimbal)
 
I can shoot RAW on my FS7. It's not what my clients want or need though. I'm sure the C200 will be fine, though the footage I've seen so far is 'meh'.
 
Does that mean that I could have a still zoom lens shimmed to correct backfocus?
Ok - not to derail this thread again... but nearly 20 pages in and I've found this the most interesting part of the entire discussion because I wasn't aware of it either... so really have to ask - a question more for Optitek - still zooms = par focal & shimming.... is this something a non lens tech could do themselves?
 
Ok - not to derail this thread again... but nearly 20 pages in and I've found this the most interesting part of the entire discussion because I wasn't aware of it either... so really have to ask - a question more for Optitek - still zooms = par focal & shimming.... is this something a non lens tech could do themselves?
Yes absolutely. Just need to be careful and some basic tools/technical understanding.
We started an educational video series that gets right up to the point of actually removing the mount and replacing the shims. We will post that video/time lapse soon. For now we posted the investigative videos that let you determine what you need to do- remove or add shim. Our channel has afew of these, this one is most relevant to your question:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtBJbawy1ls
Yes we should really take it to a separate thread- sorry to derail ;-)
 
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Thanks much. I would suggest you create a thread - not sure where...perhaps industry news & info...
Now back to normal thread -- will certainly be keeping my FS7... am curious about the EVA1 and am interested in those ISO numbers, codec & sensor among other things - when they are finalized but would certainly take it for a spin
 
On ISO one has to wonder.. the Vari is considered by some to be cleanest when the 5000 is rated at 2500, I wonder if custom mode on the FS7 is equally fast and clean.

S
 
Exactly. I'm sure Morgan that you'd agree based on some of your tests.... I've shot with iso 3200 (in custom) on my fs7 - using 1.8 lens with a speedbooster (so ~1.2) and got what I felt were certainly usable results. That is extreme low light and certainly more than I need for most situations.
 
Jacek,

I eagerly await your video about how to change the shims on a DSLR zoom lens . Scares the hell out of me but I'm very intrigued.

Lenny
 
On ISO one has to wonder.. the Vari is considered by some to be cleanest when the 5000 is rated at 2500, I wonder if custom mode on the FS7 is equally fast and clean.

S

I have a Varicam so I can add a couple of points about how the dual ISO works technically and in real world here. For me 5000 ISO, is clean enough, results may vary depending on how much light you put into it. Just like an underlit native 800 would have some noise on most cameras - shoot a scene in a room with around 3-4 fc of light as reference. This is where there needs to be a touch more understanding. Digital camera sensors produce noise when starved of light, that's always be then general rule and still applies today. But yes to your point, using 5000ISO base and then dialing down = negative gain so 5000 dialled down to 3200 is cleaner.

A more important point IMO is the engineering application of the dual ISO function and this is the part Pana had to get right to make this all happen. The result is that DR performance is the same at 800 or 5000 and moreover the colour accuracy remains the same, from the darkest part of the image to the brightest. As an example one part of the face registers at T5.6, one part at +5 stops and another at -6 stops - the skin tones will remain true in each sector at any ISO.

Sure ISO 5000 native lets you shoot 3.2 stops less light than 800 and that's a lot, but it does have many other creative applications in the real world.

Exactly. I'm sure Morgan that you'd agree based on some of your tests.... I've shot with iso 3200 (in custom) on my fs7 - using 1.8 lens with a speedbooster (so ~1.2) and got what I felt were certainly usable results.

That's pretty dark, however you felt they were usable results and Im sure they were, however the question of, will it be usable on the Varicam sensor isn't the same question as you know before setting the camera that you will have a usable image given the same set up. I'd be interested in doing a direct side by side for comparison.

Now Im definitely interested in EVA1 as bcam for my Vari. Ive been looking at smaller cams for awhile and nothing has really grabbed my attention enough. I need it to very small, very nimble and yet very capable and so far the "very capable" part has been a bit of a hit and miss.
 
The only thing I didn't like - only Canon EF mount, so you're stuck with Canon lens only
and only 10bit 4:2:2 internal
Give us a 12 or 10bit 4:4:4 and I'll jump on it :-)
 
I have a Varicam so I can add a couple of points about how the dual ISO works

Indeed, the thread is would you buy this camera as an FS7 owner.. my comment should be seen in that light (or lack of it ha ha) - a few thousand bucks to trade across to get another stop or two of ISO does not personally appeal to me - of course for some others it might be very appealing.

Low mass is my desire.

S
 
For me it comes down to color science which is sonys soft spot and Panasonics string suit.
2000 ISO is plenty for me all the other specs I can live with it all comes down to skintones.
If it's on par with Varicam lt it's worth acouple thousand dollars to me.
 
For me it comes down to color science which is sonys soft spot and Panasonics string suit.
2000 ISO is plenty for me all the other specs I can live with it all comes down to skintones.
If it's on par with Varicam lt it's worth acouple thousand dollars to me.

Totally agree.
 
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