C100: White Balance Metering - Manual vs A/B Presets Metering - Same 3100K Diferent Colors?

Barry_Green said:
Yes.

Auto white balance adjusts all color channels.

Dialing in the color temperature only affects red/blue, and does not affect cyan/magenta.

For this reason, it will always, always, always be more accurate to set the white balance using the AWB function. Dialing in a manual color temperature is only valid if the light source has perfect color rendition.

I know that using a variable white balance and dialing in the color temperature is popular, but it is also (IMO) a mistake in many situations. The white balance metering will provide more accurate color in more situations than dialing in the color temperature will.
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Is this really true? I shot some photos yesterday on the 5D3 and switched to AWB because of what I was reading on this thread. Lately I dialed in the Kelvin to 5600 as my lights are that. When I used the 5600 in combination with my Aputure LEDs the color balance was perfect. When I set the camera to AWB there was a horrible green cast on the photos. I doubt that AWB adjusts all channels...... If I do the Manuel WB it works well.

Maybe the AWB works differently on the C100 opposed to the 5D3?
 
Hey...quick question....when I use Custom White Balance A....and I use the AWB button to set the proper white balance (shooting an 18% gray card)....is there any way to adjust the temp settings after the AWB is set. If this is the ONLY way to adjust the green and magenta hues....then its the best way. I just can't believe we can't change the settings for artistic choices after the fact. If I want to just warm it up a bit or cool it down a bit while retaining the green - magenta shift of the AWB....I need to be able to do that.

Also it seams a bit immature to not be able to this dial in numerically. If one were shooting with higher end camera...it would be a bit silly to be forced to use an AWB feature for proper color....while not being able to take a simple direction like..."warm it up a bit" .

I know the C100 is a "deal" of a camera....but I definitely feel the consumerism here.
 
On the MK II at least, under the custom picture profiles you can plant your white balance anywhere on the Green-Blue-Magenta and Amber graph. Not sure about the MK I.
 
Macaholic said:
On the MK II at least, under the custom picture profiles you can plant your white balance anywhere on the Green-Blue-Magenta and Amber graph. Not sure about the MK I.
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I don't think you can access that when "locked" in LOG mode on the Mark I. Someone please prove me wrong.
 
No screenshots, but yes, the Sony broadcast XDCAM is the same. With Kelvin WB you need make some color correction at post, with white paper WB it is sometimes difficult to get the correct result with mixed lights. I saw the resut of two cameraman's groups with both sort of WB and the result depends on light condition and on amount of time for work.
 
ReelWorksMedia said:
To my understanding....using a gray/white card and a custom white balance...by targeting the card and use the AWB button...then dialing it in to taste...is the only method of adjusting the cyan/magenta shift and give you an accurate balance. The manual kelvin adjustment only adjusts the red and blue channels....I believe. This is why the Mark I always has a green cast if you are manually adjusting the Kelvin. That method does not give you the tint adjustment...and without it...the camera leans towards the green.

Please correctly if I am wrong.
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I haven't tried this with the C100 yet, but with the 5D3 the best white balance was using kelvin. I found that setting the 5d3 to AWB it had a horrible green tint, even using consistent lights. Oddly Some how I just come to accept this over the time I've owned the camera and just deal with it in post.

Since I got the Aputure Araman LEDs (daylight) I set the Kelvin to 5500 and had much better results. I don't notice any Cyan/magenta shift. Someone mentioned before in this thread that if you used consistent lighting and set your kelvin to that the green tint wasn't a problem. I found this to be true. I don't understand why if I use AWB under 3 Aputure LEDs at 5500 kelvin I get a horrible green cast if in fact all 3 channels are adjusted.
 
ReelWorksMedia said:
Hey...quick question....when I use Custom White Balance A....and I use the AWB button to set the proper white balance (shooting an 18% gray card)....is there any way to adjust the temp settings after the AWB is set. If this is the ONLY way to adjust the green and magenta hues....then its the best way. I just can't believe we can't change the settings for artistic choices after the fact. If I want to just warm it up a bit or cool it down a bit while retaining the green - magenta shift of the AWB....I need to be able to do that.

Also it seams a bit immature to not be able to this dial in numerically. If one were shooting with higher end camera...it would be a bit silly to be forced to use an AWB feature for proper color....while not being able to take a simple direction like..."warm it up a bit" .

I know the C100 is a "deal" of a camera....but I definitely feel the consumerism here.
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I think a lot of confusion in this thread started when the OP referred to AWB or auto white balance. I believe he is actually referring to manually setting a white balance by filling the frame with a white or grey card. We're not talking about leaving the camera on auto white balance and letting it constantly change while shooting. If you want to warm it up a bit, why not set a manual white balance through something like an expodisc and add a layer of CTB 1/8 or 1/4? I believe expodisc even includes those filters.
 
drummondb said:
... If you want to warm it up a bit, why not set a manual white balance through something like an expodisc and add a layer of CTB 1/8 or 1/4? I believe expodisc even includes those filters.
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Another easy way to warm it up (or cool it down) is to use the most appropriate white balance preset, either the light bulb or the sun icon, and the thumb to the right one spot and use the + or - feature. I've accidentally hit that countless times, but I never thought to check what it actually does. Looks like, as would seem obvious, going up warms up the image, and thumbing down cools it off.
 
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