FS7: which lightmeter for fs7

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Publimix

Veteran
I want to buy a lightmeter to use with the mighty fs7. Any suggestions for a not to expensive and good one?

thanks

I like stupid simple.
 
Publimix said:
I want to buy a lightmeter to use with the mighty fs7. Any suggestions for a not to expensive and good one?

thanks

I like stupid simple.
Click to expand...

Why do you think you need a light meter?

The FS7 has all the exposure tools you need to ensure your exposure is spot on.
 
Thanks, I will spend some time on Ebay now.

Nirv, when the FS7 should have a nice 'needle' in the viewfinder (like the old olympus OM1) I would be so happy. (maybe a nice 'hack for a creative computer student:-) ) No Histogram, waveform or zebras disrupting the image.

om1.jpg
 
I agree with Nirv, you shouldn't need a light meter because the FS7 already has excellent exposure tools built into it that are more accurate and easier to use than a meter. If you find zebras are disrupting the image too much, I would suggest that you are not using them the best way. My images are "disrupted" by just a touch of zebras on the very brightest whites and I hardly even notice them -- but they tell me precisely what my exposure is.

But if you have your heart set on a light meter I really like my Sekonic 758c and would gladly buy it again.

Also, if you do start setting exposure with a meter it is critical that you set the camera up exactly how you will use it and then figure out for yourself the camera's actual sensitivity. Don't make the mistake of trusting the untrustworthy ISO numbers the camera will show you.
 
Nothing wrong with using a meter for planning contrast ratios and the like in a scene.

I have the Sekonic 478 with spot attachment.
 
Yes, a meter definitely still has its uses and every pro should have one and know how to use it, but I just don't think its a practical substitute for zebras, false color, and other marvels of the electronic age for setting exposure 90% of the time. :-)
 
I like using a light meter to quickly analyze a scene or quickly light a set. It is also a very fast way to evenly light a green screen. Though the new Odyssey software is now fantastic for this, it has multiple target spot meters you can move around the monitor, it is the fastest way to evenly light a chroma screen shoot.
 
I had a Luna lux ? with spot and incident metering used it for photography with ancient camera's. When I bought the Olympus OM4 with multi-spot meter I sold it.
(the antiquairs here know now how long ago that was.)

Why are all the lenses and lightmeters cheap in America? And why do I have to pay so much import taxes even for old stuff (which were originally made in Japan or Germany)?
 
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I think a light meter is the best tool a D.P. can have. If you are a cameraman, then yes, zebras, waveform etc, as you probably don’t even have time to do any elaborated lighting. But as a D.P. a light meter is a time saver. You don’t use a meter only to set exposure. I can light a whole set without even having the camera on sticks yet. It saves lots of time and is a much more fluid way of working. Lighting by monitor is slow and inefficient in my opinion.
 
My preference is for a combo meter, so that I don't have to carry round separate incident and spot meters. I currently have the Sekonic L758-Cine, the meters are good and true, but I'm not really a fan - the user interface on it is absolutely horrible.
 
I basically only use the LunaPro as an incident meter. It shows immediately the value of key and fill aimed at the lights/reflectors. And the evenness of a green/blue screen by aiming at the camera in different locations. And I can quickly run around a set and get the relative light from any light source wherever am.

For spot metering I use the camera, most cams do this extremely well, using a zoom lens makes it even easier.
 
There's also this add-on lumishphere for iPhone called Luxi
luxi2.jpg


And without any add-on there's a LightMeter app you can check out too. As for accuracy, no idea but what's more important is repeatability of readings. Perhaps worth looking into if on the cheap.
 
Spectra Cine IV-A is what I've used for years. And a Minolta M for spot, although that hasn't come out of the case in a very long time.
 
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