I Still think getting a recorder is a better use of $3500....
That said, sLog>Sliced Bread.
That said, sLog>Sliced Bread.
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That 5600K button is one of the camera's little quirks and so easily overlooked.
Note, however, that it is additive. If you are set to 3200K preset, it effectiely adds +2400 to make 5600. If you happen to be in either A or B, it will add to whatever setting you have whether from a manual wb, atw, or value you have set.
Ned
In S-Log you're limited to either 3200K or 5600K. Thus, in S-Log you need to keep your white balance on pre-set (3200K) and toggle to 5600K
Even though it was Sony's intent that S-Log be used for later post color correction, we all know that often we find other ways to use tools. Just like FILM REC mode on the Panasonic Varicam was really only meant for film out finishes, but many people chose to shoot with in to get an extended gamma range and simply light and expose to that. Sony offers a very similar mode using their Hypergamma settings. The Japanese engineers might say that we're "using it wrong<" but so what if we like the way it looks?
Instead of the overly saturated, heavy-colored highlights look of Sony's Rec709, try this: shoot in S-Log and RECORD one of the Hypergamma viewing LUTs. I like the 800% with grey point at 40. You get an expanded Dynamic Range compared to Rec709, but with some protection from clipping at the top. Even more importantly you peel away Sony's color matrixing, which has the classic "Sony look" of over-saturated highlights that can both appear very Kodachrome-esque and can also lead to odd over-exposure highlight artifacts like white objects turning yellow. On film (and on the film-emulating look of the Alexa), colors desaturate as they reach overexposure into white. I much prefer that look.
Shoot in this mode and record it either externally or internally. You my find that you wish to add a little touch of saturaton to the final image, or perhaps not depending on your taste. But you won't have to go through a rigorous color correction and gamma adjustment, which is when the lower bit depth and heavier compression really bites you. Just light to this look and you can get stunning images out of the F3 which are remarkably better than the standard Rec709, no matter what you do in the Picture Profile menus. You can record this externally or to the SxS cards. It really turns the F3 into an altogether different camera.
Most jobs do not have the time, money or inclination to go through in depth color correction. This is a way to improve the look of the camera without recording true Log, so that what is recorded can be the finished image. Again, you may wish to add a bit of saturation to the colors in this mode, but it wouldn't be much and would likely be an overall adjustment to the entire project based on the look you prefer. That's pretty easy and the image is much better.
The SDI A will only output a clean, non-lut signal. You can output either a LUT or non-LUT signal from either SDI or HDMI out.
The Samurai has HD-SDI loop through. So I presume your TVLogic has HD-SDI, so just lopp the output through the Samurai. Since it seems that you don't want to record the non-LUT output, all that is really relevant to you is the HD-SDI with the LUT turned on. Personally, I would record non-LUT to the Samurai and monitor the viewing LUT through the SDI port to the TVLogic.
sorry just trying to get my head around this. So I could record the LUT S-LOG signal through the SDI output directly to my Samurai, and send a clean non LUT signal through the HD-SDI A connector through to my TVLOGIC monitor, which I could use that to judge the exposure on its waveform monitor, and of course accurate focus. Make sense?
So I could record the LUT S-LOG signal through the SDI output directly to my Samurai, and send a clean non LUT signal through the HD-SDI A connector through to my TVLOGIC monitor, which I could use that to judge the exposure on its waveform monitor, and of course accurate focus. Make sense?