Which camera is better for video, the D7100 or D5200? Something close to the GH3.

Is the 1920x1080 60 fps 60p or 60i?

Found the answer, but not a deal breaker //

So what’s the deal with 60i? Well, it’s actually a bit of marketing, since you’ll never be able to get 60p from a 60i signal. In fact, 60i is really a 30fps mode, since you have 2 fields which must be combined, therefore giving you 30 actual frames. This was a slight letdown when I first saw the specs, as I had thought for a moment that this was the first Nikon DSLR to give us 60p – which is great for slow motion.
 
Found the answer, but not a deal breaker //

So what’s the deal with 60i? Well, it’s actually a bit of marketing, since you’ll never be able to get 60p from a 60i signal. In fact, 60i is really a 30fps mode, since you have 2 fields which must be combined, therefore giving you 30 actual frames. This was a slight letdown when I first saw the specs, as I had thought for a moment that this was the first Nikon DSLR to give us 60p – which is great for slow motion.
That's really not accurate. 60i to 30p is probably a worse conversion than 60i to 60p.
 
That's really not accurate. 60i to 30p is probably a worse conversion than 60i to 60p.

I just cut and pasted that quote and don't have a D5200, so haven't personally tried any of the conversions.

But since you mentioned it, would a 1920x1080 60i signal converted to 60p work, and how would it compare to a 720p recording blown up to 1920x1080? Be great to see some side by side tests.
 
macgregor has done some very successful 60i to 60p conversions... with his F35. In principle this could be done too with the D5200, but if the image is particularly soft and cropped and all that, staying with 720p60 may be better.
 
So what’s the deal with 60i? Well, it’s actually a bit of marketing, since you’ll never be able to get 60p from a 60i signal. In fact, 60i is really a 30fps mode, since you have 2 fields which must be combined, therefore giving you 30 actual frames. This was a slight letdown when I first saw the specs, as I had thought for a moment that this was the first Nikon DSLR to give us 60p – which is great for slow motion.

This is wrong. You can easily get 60p from 60i with a proper workflow, for example in After Effects. Bob-deinteraling works by showing both fields one after the other, scaled up to 1920x1080 so you basically get 60p. Remember that it isn't 30i. It's 60. There are 60 separate images. Before 1080p HD times, we all worked with DVX100's and the like and often did slowmotion from interlaced 50fps material here in Europe.
 
This is wrong. You can easily get 60p from 60i with a proper workflow, for example in After Effects. Bob-deinteraling works by showing both fields one after the other, scaled up to 1920x1080 so you basically get 60p. Remember that it isn't 30i. It's 60. There are 60 separate images. Before 1080p HD times, we all worked with DVX100's and the like and often did slowmotion from interlaced 50fps material here in Europe.

Sounds like a real plus for the D5200. I've been shooting Canon with cinestyle since it was released dialed all the way down and I have had excellent results is all lighting conditions. What picture style for Nikon comes close and I assume you can install downloaded picture styles as you can with Canon.
 
Sounds like a real plus for the D5200. I've been shooting Canon with cinestyle since it was released dialed all the way down and I have had excellent results is all lighting conditions. What picture style for Nikon comes close and I assume you can install downloaded picture styles as you can with Canon.

I've never shot canon cinestyle, but there are some picture styles that are fantastic for Nikon.

Samuel H.'s Flaat work for the d5200 (I haven't tested these yet personally but many others have)
http://www.similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-controls/index.html

and then

Lpowell's Nikon Gamma Controls
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?303215-Nikon-Gamma-Controls-v0-1-Beta-Test

The Gamma controls I use to shoot flat for the d5200. I've only shot a couple things so far, but I've been able to recover a ton of detail with the Gamma Controls.

Those are the only picture styles that I'm aware of. Hope it helps.
 
I've never shot canon cinestyle, but there are some picture styles that are fantastic for Nikon.

Samuel H.'s Flaat work for the d5200 (I haven't tested these yet personally but many others have)
http://www.similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-controls/index.html

and then

Lpowell's Nikon Gamma Controls
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?303215-Nikon-Gamma-Controls-v0-1-Beta-Test

The Gamma controls I use to shoot flat for the d5200. I've only shot a couple things so far, but I've been able to recover a ton of detail with the Gamma Controls.

Those are the only picture styles that I'm aware of. Hope it helps.

Thanks that sounds like it will be similar. I made an error yesterday shooting some run&gun shots from shady trees to full sun and in a few clips was maybe 3 to 5 stops over before I noticed it. It's difficult to see the screen in full daylight when I'm running across a field shooting a kid. It's pretty amazing how you can save a blown out shot with a flat picture style.
I'm looking forward to working with Nikon after 4 years with Canon. It may not hurt for the future to have both in the bag.
 
If anyone has time, I could use a lens critique.
These are the lens I have. Tell me straight out if they are good, or if I should sell them. Or what they may be good for.

Why don't you test them yourself?

It's easy to do a test for sharpness and color rendition. Get a color card if you can (Amazon sells color chip cards with gray for white balancing on the back). Or get something with a wide range of colors to shoot. Make a tabletop set with something like a software box or magazine page - text on white.

Shoot every aperture under a daylight source - stick a card in the frame that states the lens and the aperture. Use shutter speed to even out exposure across the shots. (A small dry-erase board is the way to go for testing)

Shoot stills and check them out on your PC. Make notes of the sharpest apertures. Compare colors side-by-side and look for oddball stuff. Look at density of blacks. heck, eyedropped the blacks. That will give you the technical side.

However, my favorite "cinema" lens for DSLRs is an old Nikon 35-70 2.8. It has flare issues, but it's a "nice" flare and controllable with a matte box. It's a little soft at 2.8, but it's a "nice" softness. My 2nd fave is a 100 2.8 "consumer" Nikkor (series E). It's just lovely for video. Tons of mojo and luscious colors. Can't use it that much since it's freaking long as hell on an APS-C. But it's on every shoot.

So, shoot the lenses you think are keepers, out in the real world.

All those 3.5 - 4.5 zooms? I'd dump 'em all to buy one really nice lens.
 
Thanks for your advice.
Just a quick question. If I had a 50mm with the same f stop in a old F series lens and a newer 50 mm VR lens with same fstop, , would they both be equal in picture quality. I guess it does not matter if it is 50mm or what size and am not talking autofocus, stablilty, or things, just the glass.

If they are both the same, and I want to sacrifice auto-focus, then you could save money getting old lenses. :)
 
Optical formulas change over time. But for shooting video on a DSLR from Nikon or Canon - I doubt you'll see a tremendous difference in sharpness.

The best way to get a cheap, manual 50mm for a Nikon is to buy a body & lens combo from eBay, like an old FG or similar consumer camera. They usually go for less $$ than just a lens - but 90% of 'em will have a 50.
 
Rumor has it that the D5200 is the current best HDSLR on the market including GH3, D800 and 5D Mark III.
It also has clean HDMI out, a swivel LCD, with less moire and aliasing than a D7100.

I am wondering when a drop in Video filter for the D7100 Sensor will be available?
I use AF-S lens so that is not a factor between the two and I also use an external monitor when shooting my "Home Movies".
I like the bigger battery, higher resolution 3.2" LCD, dual cards, and other features better on the D7100
 
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I've read one person here who's had both cameras say that the 7100 was about 20% sharper in video mode, but I haven't seen any test that point to any difference between the image quality of these two cameras. The images look identical, in every comparison test that I've seen.
 
I've read one person here who's had both cameras say that the 7100 was about 20% sharper in video mode, but I haven't seen any test that point to any difference between the image quality of these two cameras. The images look identical, in every comparison test that I've seen.

That may be so in good light, the right kind of clothes worn and good background.
The test I saw was under the less than ideal conditions that I often encounter.

I have a D800 that I prefer to use, but the choice here is between the D5200 and D7100.
 
I had a D5200 and replaced it for a D7100 and it does produce a sharper image overall image in video mode. Perhaps 20% was to high guess in my initial response, but it is very noticeable increase in to my eyes. I have not had any moire or aliasing issues what so ever.
 
I had a D5200 and replaced it for a D7100 and it does produce a sharper image overall image in video mode. Perhaps 20% was to high guess in my initial response, but it is very noticeable increase in to my eyes. I have not had any moire or aliasing issues what so ever.

What are your settings?
Have you tried taking pictures of someone wearing a plaid shirt or a brick wall in the background yet?

I do not want to dump my D7100 for a D5200, but I am still trying to "Dial" it in.
It took over a month to set up the D7000 for best results and this camera has more controls.
So far my results for Sills and Video have been less than stellar.
 
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