C300: What is your tripod/head of choice with the C300 MKII?

[Alpha Beta Omega]

I have two Sachtler systems. FSB6 with Speedlock legs is the smaller one and works for a C300 sized camera. I also have a larger DV10SB/ENG2 CF HD which is rock solid if that's needed.

I can agree that the older Sachtler heads are more robust than many newer ones due to the fact that they were built in Germany as opposed to the current stuff that are manufactured in South America. But quality is still good enough on the newer heads and sticks.

 

[Eric Coughlin]

I want a Really Right Stuff FH-350 which is for up to 10 lbs, so can handle the C300 Mark II when using still lens in a run n gun configuration, which comes out to about 10 lbs. Good for the C100 too. Primary thing I like about it is that it is the best flat head head available, and due to its design is very modular for switching between tripod, slider, monopod, jib, etc.

For heavier cinema setup I like the O'Connor 1030D (or maybe DS, but right now I'd lean toward the D). The Sachtler 20 S1 was quite nice, though not quite as smooth as the O'Connor, particularly with starts and stops. I haven't used the Sachtler 18. The Sachtler 10 and 12 I was not impressed with; the drag just didn't get that stiff and I like a stiff drag. My Vinten Vision Blue gets stiffer drag than the Sachter 10 and 12 which are three to four times the cost.

 

[puredrifting]

I want a Really Right Stuff FH-350 which is for up to 10 lbs, so can handle the C300 Mark II when using still lens in a run n gun configuration, which comes out to about 10 lbs. Good for the C100 too. Primary thing I like about it is that it is the best flat head head available, and due to its design is very modular for switching between tripod, slider, monopod, jib, etc.

For heavier cinema setup I like the O'Connor 1030D (or maybe DS, but right now I'd lean toward the D). The Sachtler 20 S1 was quite nice, though not quite as smooth as the O'Connor, particularly with starts and stops. I haven't used the Sachtler 18. The Sachtler 10 and 12 I was not impressed with; the drag just didn't get that stiff and I like a stiff drag. My Vinten Vision Blue gets stiffer drag than the Sachter 10 and 12 which are three to four times the cost.

Interesting Eric. Once I am in the position to buy, I may seek out the FSB10 and DV12SB in person to feel what they are like with the setup I have. There is no substitute for actually using one in person to feel what the drag and counterbalance is like. I did notice that the FSB10 does not have the speed balance plate, which I have used a lot and enjoyed over the years on my DV6 SB, but if you get the side load version, the side tripod plate has 4.7" of mountable travel so that would be functionally the same as the SB mechanism. I love O'Connors but they are heavy beasts. I have been looking at weights too for all of these packages, that's why I lean toward the lighter stuff, as long as it's weight capacity is around 26-30lbs. When you have to lug the fully rigged camera and the tripod over your shoulder to walk a few miles through the desert, every ounce counts. I had to do that last year twice in Africa, plus carry the whole thing up two huge flights of hundreds of stairs here at Ait Ben Haddou in Morocco. It was brutal, 132F there and I only had the rigged C100 and DV6SB with me. So a rigged C300 MKII with a bigger heavier tripod would have been even more challenging so definitely trying to save weight.

 

[Eric Coughlin]

Here are weights...

Sachtler DV 12SB: 6.0 lbs
Sachtler 20 S1: 7.5 lbs
O'Connor 1030D: 8.7 lbs

People often complain about the weight of the O'Connor, but compared to the Sachtler 20 S1, it's only 1.2 lbs heavier. Now along with 8 lb sticks, and say on the lighter spectrum, a 10 lb camera, you're talking about the difference between a 25.5 lb vs 26.7 lb setup, which doesn't seem like that much of a difference to me. And with a heavier camera setup, say 25 lbs, then you're talking about the difference between a 42.5 lb vs 43.7 lb setup.


Here's a photo of me strolling about with a Sachter 20 S1 head, I think O'Connor sticks, a Zeiss 28-70 cinema zoom, O'Connor Matte Box, C300 Mark I. Filming a conference at the Colt's stadium in Indianapolis, walking several miles each day with that setup.

 

[puredrifting]

Here are weights...

Sachtler DV 12SB: 6.0 lbs
Sachtler 20 S1: 7.5 lbs
O'Connor 1030D: 8.7 lbs

People often complain about the weight of the O'Connor, but compared to the Sachtler 20 S1, it's only 1.2 lbs heavier. Now along with 8 lb sticks, and say on the lighter spectrum, a 10 lb camera, you're talking about the difference between a 25.5 lb vs 26.7 lb setup, which doesn't seem like that much of a difference to me. And with a heavier camera setup, say 25 lbs, then you're talking about the difference between a 42.5 lb vs 43.7 lb setup.


Here's a photo of me strolling about with a Sachter 20 S1 head, I think O'Connor sticks, a Zeiss 28-70 cinema zoom, O'Connor Matte Box, C300 Mark I. Filming a conference at the Colt's stadium in Indianapolis, walking several miles each day with that setup.

Ha, ha. You are young lad though, I am a an old geezer in comparison!

 

[ChristianMoriarty]

A question wfor the FSB10 users/owners here, did you get the Touch and Go version (that is what my DV6 SB is) or did you get the side load version (I have a cheap Manfrotto that is side load and it's so much better with a big shoulder rig than the Manfrotto sliding plate).

I have the Touch & Go - was really surprised to see how small it was & a little taken back - turned out to be very strong & reliable - the Touch & go allows the top half of the head to slide back & forth which I can set up for a couple of lenses easily.

 

[anatusa]

no offense to anatusa but his opinions stems from videos he sees online without actual user experience. i would say the FSB10 with carbon fiber legs is totally fine with a C300ii and photo lenses (which is what you use most of the time), i even tried it with cine primes and it works without a hitch, plus as a bonus, when you carry it onto any airlines or international flights its not super heavy! Just last month i recommended my friend to buy the china made 'secced' tripods. i compare my FSB10 with his secced and couldn't find any difference operational wise, yes secced is made in china but the parts are top quality without the sachtler brand name... At $3960 the FSB10 is indeed the best bang for your buck or save your money and buy secced, B&H carries it!

no offense to u , but who are u to tell what i have used or not??? (i missed a few words in that sentence)

i had my own FSB 8 , that i sold over a few months used, as its just sucked, it was kind of a night mare to balance the cam on it, and i was not able to make a stable shoot with a long lens. there was also one funny issue that over time was driving me mad... the level bubble was hard to catch... at that time there was no yet the speed level clamp, so its maybe a better now. after using it i came to few conclusions :
- Heads that are more Toll then Fat.... are not very useful... meaning shorter heads a more useful
- 75mm is not enough... and 100 is more stable
- the higher and more pro models are much better (i tried 18 - different animal),- its seems like smaller models - some kind of compromise. i would love to try Cine 7+ 7 hd as it has a front pan bar.

But in general u have to decide what kind of balance u prefer a Stepped (miller , suchtler) one or Continuous (Oconnor , vinten)... and what head weight u could live with....
if u are looking for just run and gun, i would just buy any small head .... and not necessary to buy a big brand ... even manfrotto will work just fine.

To me Steps sucks, but Lots of TV guys i know prefer steps for some reasons

i would not buy Secced as it may start falling apart over a short period of time, i have not tried it my self , but the net is full of notes about it... with a Good brand u can always be sure that u ll be able to resell it even after many years of use....

 

[Movies by Matt]

Used Sachtler DV-8SB (75mm). Has a 26 pound capacity and will use the same parts as your DV-6. I know 100mm is more stable but I can fit two Miller Solo tripods and a DV-6 & a DV-8 head in a tripod bag that used to only hold a 100mm DV-12SB setup. When traveling on budget, it's hard to beat the size of 75mm setups. If you watch eBay a DV-8SB setup will come up every couple months.

 

[Amira-user]

you miss more than a few sentence, puredrifting was referring to the FSB10 in his original post, which you have not used because you have the FSB8, you said you would not recommend anything below a 18th model lol... i don't think you are qualify to recommend anything unless you own the damn thing yourself and have actual 'in field' experience, and not just based on something you read from the net... and if you go back and look at all the responses here, there are actually many people who recommends the FSB10. In regards to secced, yes the resale value may not be as high since its a china made brand, but the functionality is exactly the same, if you want to go by the 'notes' online, there are users who are happy with using secced, maybe there are unhappy users too, but you choose to focus on the negatives and not the positives, maybe its human nature to just focus on the bad things/reviews but the way i see it, until you have actual hands on experience, you can't give a honest opinion or recommendation.

 

[Eric Coughlin]

Speaking of balancing, I often find I need more fore and aft adjustment than what the tripod has, so I use adapters to solve that problem.

Each time I read "secced" I think of this...

 

[deltoidjohn]

An anecdote on the question of side-load vs touch and go:

Because the C300mkII is a fairly short camera (length wise... height wise is another matter!) I've found it is not uncommon to run into issues where the follow focus, or anything else that sticks out below level with the bottom of the camera/baseplate, barely clears the front of the tripod head. Granted, this is usually with rental kits so we don't exactly have the option of replacing the baseplates to more accommodating ones that give enough height clearance, but it's just something be aware of if you're often using a fully rigged camera.

In this situation, a side-loading plate might've allowed us to insert the plate in a position that the touch-and-go or regular top/rear loading plates did not.

 

[puredrifting]

An anecdote on the question of side-load vs touch and go:

Because the C300mkII is a fairly short camera (length wise... height wise is another matter!) I've found it is not uncommon to run into issues where the follow focus, or anything else that sticks out below level with the bottom of the camera/baseplate, barely clears the front of the tripod head. Granted, this is usually with rental kits so we don't exactly have the option of replacing the baseplates to more accommodating ones that give enough height clearance, but it's just something be aware of if you're often using a fully rigged camera.

In this situation, a side-loading plate might've allowed us to insert the plate in a position that the touch-and-go or regular top/rear loading plates did not.

That's been my exact situation when using my side load Manfrotto 501 HD head when traveling. My current setup, since I don't have the Zacuto VCT Universal Baseplate, is I have a Small Rig or some other cheap brand shoulder pad, it's actually pretty comfortable and well built, but I have to slide it around to be able to mount and dismount my rig from the Touch & Go Sachtler since the edge of the shoulder pad interferes with releasing the Touch & Go release. THat's one thing I like better about my cheap Manfrotto head, when fully rigged, I can just loosen the plate and take it off sideways from the tripod head whereas using the same rig with the Touch & Go is kind of PITA.

I am switching to the Zacuto VCT Universal Mount because my current C100 MKI rig is too long as I have 8" back rails for the shoulder mount and to mount a Neweer 2 lb counterweight. It's frustrating that I can't mount the rig to the tripod using the shoulder pad, I have to constantly move the shoulder pad around. The Zacuto VCT Universal Baseplate seems like a stroke of genius, as that's exactly what it does, attaches the shoulder mount center of gravity to the VCT baseplate. I am going to create basically a modified Recoil V2 rig as I like the Zacuto thing about getting the balance point right at the operators shoulder. I've checked out the Wooden and Movcam rig setups and they just won't work for how I shoot which is often tripod for hours, then having to just unhook from the tripod and run over to catch something handheld, quickly. They both require you to have a separate shoulder mount setup with sliding dovetails, which for narrative production makes sense but for me, being more documentary and BTS oriented, making that switch, even if it only takes :20, is awkward. Plus, when I fly, that Wooden shoulder rig looks pretty big and clunky and is one more thing I have to pack up in my luggage, whereas the VCT baseplate, shoulder pad will always be part of my rig, no switching over, just dismount from the tripod and put on my shoulder. I can see how if you switched out to Steadicam/Gimbal or Drone with your main camera, the Wooden and Movcam setup would be superior but I won't be doing that. My gimbal and slider/motion control are separate things that use separate, smaller cameras like my 80D. The Recoil V2 setup seems to be perfect for how I shoot and I think I am going to add the Graticle HD, Axis Mini and C100 top handle thing, and I am going to buy the C300 MKII helmet and handle for when I rent the C300 MKIIs. I am holding out for NAB to buy a new camera, so chances are it will be either a C300 MKII later in the year, especially if they drop the price or the C100 MKIII/C200 if Canon intros something new EOS and 4K and cool at NAB.

$3,000.00 on the Graticle and Recoil V2 modded I will put together isn't cheap but even my little C100 MKI needs to be more functional, I've been using just the Blade with a Hoodman and it works, is fine for interiors, but for bright sunlight, it's frustrating to use. I need to shoot all day handheld often so it will be worth it and I can use it on other rental cameras as well so it's a good value. I read nothing but raves about the Graticle HD and I miss not having a proper eyepiece like in the days of the F900, my old Betacams, etc. As far as tripod, I am still on the fence between the FSB10 or DV12SB or possibly a used Video 18 head. Definitely going to go 100mm but I will wait to see which camera I end up with in a couple of months after NAB. The DV6SB is perfect for the C100 rig.

Wish I didn't have the ENG grip relocator, I really now need the Zgrip Relocator to get my right hand/arm out and down more. Has anyone "converted" their ENG Relocator to a Zgrip Relocator by ordering the parts from Zacuto? It's seems dumb to sell my ENG Relocator and then buy a Zgrip Relocator if Zacuto will sell me the hardware at a reasonable cost.

 

[kohl-sudduth]

An anecdote on the question of side-load vs touch and go:

Because the C300mkII is a fairly short camera (length wise... height wise is another matter!) I've found it is not uncommon to run into issues where the follow focus, or anything else that sticks out below level with the bottom of the camera/baseplate, barely clears the front of the tripod head. Granted, this is usually with rental kits so we don't exactly have the option of replacing the baseplates to more accommodating ones that give enough height clearance, but it's just something be aware of if you're often using a fully rigged camera.

In this situation, a side-loading plate might've allowed us to insert the plate in a position that the touch-and-go or regular top/rear loading plates did not.

I went with the sideload for exactly this type of scenario. My thinking around this was that the sideload might be a bit more flexible over the long haul as I intend to own and use the Sachtler head for much longer than I will own and use the c300 mkii. Thought it might be more adaptable across a broader range of configs. Whether my thinking around this is accurate or not, time will tell.

Admittedly, there are times when I wish I'd went with the touch n go plate. There's something reassuring about that 'snap' that the camera is totally secure. It's also a little bit more convenient, speedy. If I was going to always use the same (or similar) set up for the camera, I could see the benefit of that option.

I worked with an AC (great AC incidentally) that was not immediately familiar with the 'sideload' version and didn't tighten the thumbscrew after hearing the 'snap' of the sideload. The camera was just resting on the head, not secured. Fortunately, it was caught before there were any tragedies and the camera was properly secured for the rest of the shoot.

 

[puredrifting]

I went with the sideload for exactly this type of scenario. My thinking around this was that the sideload might be a bit more flexible over the long haul as I intend to own and use the Sachtler head for much longer than I will own and use the c300 mkii. Thought it might be more adaptable across a broader range of configs. Whether my thinking around this is accurate or not, time will tell.

Admittedly, there are times when I wish I'd went with the touch n go plate. There's something reassuring about that 'snap' that the camera is totally secure. It's also a little bit more convenient, speedy. If I was going to always use the same (or similar) set up for the camera, I could see the benefit of that option.

I worked with an AC (great AC incidentally) that was not immediately familiar with the 'sideload' version and didn't tighten the thumbscrew after hearing the 'snap' of the sideload. The camera was just resting on the head, not secured. Fortunately, it was caught before there were any tragedies and the camera was properly secured for the rest of the shoot.

Yikes, scary! Your camera's guardian angel was watching it ;-)

 

[kohl-sudduth]

...The Zacuto VCT Universal Baseplate seems like a stroke of genius, as that's exactly what it does, attaches the shoulder mount center of gravity to the VCT baseplate... I read nothing but raves about the Graticle HD...

I use the Zacuto VCT baseplate and shoulder thing (can't recall the exact Zacuto name for it) and I gotta say it's really great design. The ability to make small, very quick, counter balance adjustments by sliding the camera back and forth on the shoulder mount is quite useful.

I own and really like the Graticle. Wanted to find something that was camera brand 'agnostic'. Zacuto is also pretty good with firmware updates and I've had solid customer service experiences with them.

 

[kohl-sudduth]

Yikes, scary! Your camera's guardian angel was watching it ;-)

No doubt right! Wish I was always that lucky in life. He he...

 

[puredrifting]

I use the Zacuto VCT baseplate and shoulder thing (can't recall the exact Zacuto name for it) and I gotta say it's really great design. The ability to make small, very quick, counter balance adjustments by sliding the camera back and forth on the shoulder mount is quite useful.

I own and really like the Graticle. Wanted to find something that was camera brand 'agnostic'. Zacuto is also pretty good with firmware updates and I've had solid customer service experiences with them.

Do you have the VCT "Pro" version or just the Universal? The older Universal version you can get a demo one from them for $356.00. The "Pro" version is only available new from them or B&H for almost double that at $615.00. The only difference seems to be the red sliding dovetail plate to make the adjustments on the Pro version versus just tightening the camera mounting screws on the track slot on the older Universal design? I am leaning toward the cheaper Universal version although if I do a lot of lens changes between lenses that will change the balance point, like going from the 17-55 2.8 IS to the 70-200 2.8 IS II, it could become a PITA to have to adjust the camera mount screws and slide it around versus just unlocking, moving and locking the red plate on the Pro version? Any feedback on this Kohl? Although, FWIW, I would rarely shoot handheld with the 70-200 2.8 IS II, that's almost always just off of tripod, where I can use the Sachtler Speed Balance plate to balance the rig quickly?

 

[kohl-sudduth]

Do you have the VCT "Pro" version or just the Universal? The older Universal version you can get a demo one from them for $356.00. The "Pro" version is only available new from them or B&H for almost double that at $615.00. The only difference seems to be the red sliding dovetail plate to make the adjustments on the Pro version versus just tightening the camera mounting screws on the track slot on the older Universal design? I am leaning toward the cheaper Universal version although if I do a lot of lens changes between lenses that will change the balance point, like going from the 17-55 2.8 IS to the 70-200 2.8 IS II, it could become a PITA to have to adjust the camera mount screws and slide it around versus just unlocking, moving and locking the red plate on the Pro version? Any feedback on this Kohl? Although, FWIW, I would rarely shoot handheld with the 70-200 2.8 IS II, that's almost always just off of tripod, where I can use the Sachtler Speed Balance plate to balance the rig quickly?

It's the one that has the red sliding dovetail plate so it must be the 'Pro' version.

I recall getting that one because it has an arri rosette on the right side and I could fit a grip extension that I already had. The red sliding dovetail plate is convenient although it can take a little messing about to get it to slide on and release from the plate because the metal is so thin. The quick release dovetail has proven useful to quickly transition to pick up handheld shots for inserts, etc, before moving on to the next set up.

Can't speak to the 'older' VCT plate version as I don't have experience with it.

I think I also got the Graticle for like $500 off when they offered a short term sale a while back. Seems like they offer things like this a few times a year.

 

[cpreston]

The sideload plates shouldn't just fall out even if it isn't tightened in. I far prefer them for the cinema cameras than anything like the Manfrotto with the rear slide in style.

I have a O'Connor 1030D, a Vinten FSB 8 with a lighter spring installed, and a whole bunch of the Manfrotto 500AH's. I owned a Sachtler FSB8 for about two days and decided it wasn't worth it. The pan bar was atrocious and I saw both backlash and jitters at longer angles. It was a perfectly acceptable head and I like the ability to disengage the drag, but it isn't in the same league as the O'Connor. I ended up with the Vinten because it uses the same plates as the O'Connor and it is noticeably smaller. I put a smaller spring in the counterbalance so that it would support a C100 which screwed up the "perfect" counterbalance system, but it still functions. I love the little 500AH's for stripped down cameras on sliders and jibs and locked off shots. The drag and counterbalance are not adjustable, but the movement feels great and they are light and and have an easy to used sideload system.

 

[puredrifting]

The sideload plates shouldn't just fall out even if it isn't tightened in. I far prefer them for the cinema cameras than anything like the Manfrotto with the rear slide in style.

I have a O'Connor 1030D, a Vinten FSB 8 with a lighter spring installed, and a whole bunch of the Manfrotto 500AH's. I owned a Sachtler FSB8 for about two days and decided it wasn't worth it. The pan bar was atrocious and I saw both backlash and jitters at longer angles. It was a perfectly acceptable head and I like the ability to disengage the drag, but it isn't in the same league as the O'Connor. I ended up with the Vinten because it uses the same plates as the O'Connor and it is noticeably smaller. I put a smaller spring in the counterbalance so that it would support a C100 which screwed up the "perfect" counterbalance system, but it still functions. I love the little 500AH's for stripped down cameras on sliders and jibs and locked off shots. The drag and counterbalance are not adjustable, but the movement feels great and they are light and and have an easy to used sideload system.

I would not buy the FSB10 or the DV12SB unless I try them out in real life with my fully loaded rig. I have had half a dozen Sachtlers over my career so I definitely know what would be red flags to me, including windup, backlash, jitters or anything not truly smooth with the "right" feel to it. I need to shoot with a heavier rig with my 70-200 2.8 IS II and get smooth moves at 200mm but I need to balance that out with fairly light weight and reasonable size. I also have to figure out some kind of insurance situation so I can fly with my Sachtlers. I honety don't fly with it now because to replace it would be about $4k and if the airlines lose or damage it, I am SOL, they won't pay more than $200.00 or some nonsense. It kills me to show up in a foreign country even with my fully rigged C100, which probaly weighs about 11 lbs, but have to use the MVH500 head (I looked, I thought I had some kind of 501 head, but that's the old, cheapo one, I have the same MVH500 you do) with some cheap Bogen legs, I really need my Sachtler in those situations but I have not risked it, flying with it. I will be in the same dilemma with the bigger Sachtler, how do you cover it in case of theft, loss or damage internationally?

What do you guys do when you are checking in your $4k to $10k Sachtlers and O'Connors for International flights and they get lost or damaged? Is there some kind of rider to your normal policy that will cover that and is it so expensive as to not really make financial sense? If it costs $500.00 per year to cover your $3,000.00 tripod, not sure if that makes financial sense? If it's $500.00 per year and it covers your entire rig, camera, lenses, accessories and tripod, internationally, that makes more sense.