Time Lapse on 5D and using Nikon lenses
- Thread starter Mj882
- Start date
Not sure that time is the issue per se, it's the file size that limits the recording length, so in a time lapse scenario, you are only recording a specific number of frames/minute (depending on how you set it up) thus, you'd be able to achieve a lengthy time lapse before the file size limit is reached.
There are numerous Nikon to Canon adaptors available. They range from about $4.00 -to-$300, I've tried the cheapest and the most expensive and couldn't tell the difference. In fact the German made one $250 (US) promptly got stuck on a lens... the cheapies from China, work well for me, some say they notice play but I like them just fine. At that price, I buy one for each lens, and leave them on the lens though, so they are not seeing alot of wear/tear, on/off action.
There are numerous Nikon to Canon adaptors available. They range from about $4.00 -to-$300, I've tried the cheapest and the most expensive and couldn't tell the difference. In fact the German made one $250 (US) promptly got stuck on a lens... the cheapies from China, work well for me, some say they notice play but I like them just fine. At that price, I buy one for each lens, and leave them on the lens though, so they are not seeing alot of wear/tear, on/off action.
egproductions
Veteran
Use the EOS utitily and a laptop or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B003F69JBW/ref=pd_cp_p_2
You will have a 21MP or 5.6K RAW video if you take stills rather than shoot and extract frames (speed up footage)
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B003F69JBW/ref=pd_cp_p_2
You will have a 21MP or 5.6K RAW video if you take stills rather than shoot and extract frames (speed up footage)
Drew599
Veteran
Don't not use the Canon 5D2's video record function to do timelapse. Use the RAW or JPEG photo mode as that will give you some real timelapse.
As for an adaptor I'm using the ones from Cinevate and I couldn't be happier. I use a lot of Zeiss ZFs in my timelapse done with the 5D2 and they work flawlessly. Plus you can focus past infinite with those adaptors, which is a huge deal when using the Zeiss ZFs as they stop at infinite.
As for an adaptor I'm using the ones from Cinevate and I couldn't be happier. I use a lot of Zeiss ZFs in my timelapse done with the 5D2 and they work flawlessly. Plus you can focus past infinite with those adaptors, which is a huge deal when using the Zeiss ZFs as they stop at infinite.
It is possible to do timelapse with 5DII with either laptop using the Canon utility (clumsy and unreliable in my experience) or with a separate timer release Canon TC-80N3. I much prefer the later because of its reliability and small size. For long sequences the camera needs to be fed from the mains at least with the laptop method, and laptop also. The timer release can wake up the camera and flash before each shot it the interval is long, thus conserving battery power. Timer release battery lasts for 3-4 years.
Nikon has an interval timer built in in their new DSLRs, why not Canon???
It is unnecessary to shoot large resolution pictures (bigger than HD video frame in horizontal resolution) for timelapse, unless some panning and reframing is planned. Shooting in RAW is plain stupid*, as converting possibly thousands of photos would have to be done automatically anyway, thus loosing the reason for shooting RAW in the first place; individual tweaking of each photo. For that reason mid quality JPEG is the right file format for timelapse.
The time limits come from file size limitations. As a timelapse sequence is not a video file but a bunch of individual picture files, this limitation does not apply to timelapse sequences, only the memory card capacity.
*) in most cases anyway, for extreme quality RAW could be used, the optimal conversion settings determined, which have to be the same for all frames for continuity, and then RAW files batch processed.
Nikon has an interval timer built in in their new DSLRs, why not Canon???
It is unnecessary to shoot large resolution pictures (bigger than HD video frame in horizontal resolution) for timelapse, unless some panning and reframing is planned. Shooting in RAW is plain stupid*, as converting possibly thousands of photos would have to be done automatically anyway, thus loosing the reason for shooting RAW in the first place; individual tweaking of each photo. For that reason mid quality JPEG is the right file format for timelapse.
The time limits come from file size limitations. As a timelapse sequence is not a video file but a bunch of individual picture files, this limitation does not apply to timelapse sequences, only the memory card capacity.
*) in most cases anyway, for extreme quality RAW could be used, the optimal conversion settings determined, which have to be the same for all frames for continuity, and then RAW files batch processed.
I've been using the cheap $15 brass Kawa adapters with great results except for one thing. They force the lens to be focused at infinity before the matching mark on the lens. Recently picked up a Fotodiox Pro for $70 because they "guaranteed" correct infinity focusing and it performed as advertised. This wasnt a big deal with longer lenses but for my wide one's I wanted the ability to rack to infinity quickly without having to think about it when the appropriate situation arose.
I bought the cheap timer on ebay, like the one on Amazon. Works great. I was told it has the same chip as the Canon.
I use the cheap Nikon adapters. I don't have a problem with them.
In film mode, shoot one frame every 10 or 20 sec. Shooting 2 frames per interval sometimes looks a little smoother.. Turn off auto focus. I shot for over 8 hours of time lapse on a job, and this is what is looks like, intermixed with my Panasonic HPX500. The 5D can run a long time on a freshly charged battery.
http://www.psav.com/Historic-Wide-Screen.aspx
JohnnyD
I use the cheap Nikon adapters. I don't have a problem with them.
In film mode, shoot one frame every 10 or 20 sec. Shooting 2 frames per interval sometimes looks a little smoother.. Turn off auto focus. I shot for over 8 hours of time lapse on a job, and this is what is looks like, intermixed with my Panasonic HPX500. The 5D can run a long time on a freshly charged battery.
http://www.psav.com/Historic-Wide-Screen.aspx
JohnnyD
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Shaneuk
Active member
Timelapse is not a form of video, it is a form of photography. Check out here for more info: http://www.timescapes.org
ccastro
Well-known member
Hey guys I've never tried time lapse with a still picture, can anyone explain the math side of this time lapse.
If you are shooting in a 24P mode how many stills do you take?
When your done taking the shots how do you assemble the time lapse ?
To create a second of footage how many frames are used etc...
Do you assemble it manually or is there some software that you use to create a clip.
This sounds like the best way to use time plase effect with this camera, I'd love to know the process.
Thanks.
If you are shooting in a 24P mode how many stills do you take?
When your done taking the shots how do you assemble the time lapse ?
To create a second of footage how many frames are used etc...
Do you assemble it manually or is there some software that you use to create a clip.
This sounds like the best way to use time plase effect with this camera, I'd love to know the process.
Thanks.
Not true. Many video cameras have interval time settings, such as the Sony PD150 and others. Works just like a still camera.
JohnnyD
True interval shooting with video camera can not be done with a tape camera. They can take short interval clips, though. Tape mechanism can not record single frames accurate enough. There are also camera control programs which can capture video from any firewire equipped video camera at any rate from the native rate and slower, there is no need to have a tape inserted.
ccastro: you need 24 still frames for one second, of course. Better editors like FCP or Premiere can take sequentially numbered still files and turn them automatically into a video clip. Very easy...
ccastro: you need 24 still frames for one second, of course. Better editors like FCP or Premiere can take sequentially numbered still files and turn them automatically into a video clip. Very easy...
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Drew599
Veteran
Well when I want 20 seconds of footage I shoot 480 frames or a little bit more to cover me. Now that 20 seconds of timelapse footage might take you 20 minutes or over 2 hours depending on a couple of things, such as your subject you are shooting. Shots of traffic and people go quick because they are already moving fast. Where as stars and such take a while to notice any real movement, so they take longer.
Right now I'm using After Effects to process my RAW frames from my 5D2. But before that I was using Lightroom to process the frames into TIFFs and then having FCP assemble the frames. I'm sure you could use a lot of other similar programs around to do the same thing.
Matt Gottshalk
Resident Preditor
iconoclast6
Member
Hey Ocastro,
Timelapse is not a big deal at all.
1) First your need an intervelometer. Either the overpriced Canon or the cheaper one sold online, they both work the same and provide identical results.
2) Find a scene that is constantly changing, or changes over time that would be pleasing to your aesthetic.
3) Put your camera in aperture priority with appropriate iso and focus.
4) Turn off picture preview to avoid unnecessary battery drain.
5) Set your intervelometer to shoot anywhere from every 3 to 5 seconds to catch changes in your scene.
6) Let your intervelometer and camera run at least a couple hours. Remember 24p takes 24 frames for 1 second of video.
7) After you've et things go for a time, cut your camera off. Import the stills with QT 7, open still image, and all your pics will be imported in order and converted to a QT movie. You'll want to reduce the dimension from raw or large jpeg to effect playback to 1920/1280 or 1920/720.
8) Add sound track, grade the color, decide if you want 720p or 1080P and voila...you have timelapse.
I think I've included all the steps, but I'm also on my 3rd beer, but in case I left something out...you've got most of it.
The link below shows my first timelapse effort: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYotXLnCmKs
Chuck
Timelapse is not a big deal at all.
1) First your need an intervelometer. Either the overpriced Canon or the cheaper one sold online, they both work the same and provide identical results.
2) Find a scene that is constantly changing, or changes over time that would be pleasing to your aesthetic.
3) Put your camera in aperture priority with appropriate iso and focus.
4) Turn off picture preview to avoid unnecessary battery drain.
5) Set your intervelometer to shoot anywhere from every 3 to 5 seconds to catch changes in your scene.
6) Let your intervelometer and camera run at least a couple hours. Remember 24p takes 24 frames for 1 second of video.
7) After you've et things go for a time, cut your camera off. Import the stills with QT 7, open still image, and all your pics will be imported in order and converted to a QT movie. You'll want to reduce the dimension from raw or large jpeg to effect playback to 1920/1280 or 1920/720.
8) Add sound track, grade the color, decide if you want 720p or 1080P and voila...you have timelapse.
I think I've included all the steps, but I'm also on my 3rd beer, but in case I left something out...you've got most of it.
The link below shows my first timelapse effort: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYotXLnCmKs
Chuck