GH1 Thorough GH1 FPN Test - Old vs. New bodies, Film Modes, and Emory's Settings

goodgoings said:
faultiersid, did you use Emory's settings on your 2011 GH1?Do you mind telling us the first letters/numbers of the serial on the 2011 model? And was it from B&H or PD?
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Hi, it's a WE1B Camera from Adorama. The shots come from the creative movie mode, since emorys settings are hard to compare in my opinion.
I will do further tests with Emory's settings today.

@CColton

do you mean the 2011 GH1 improved over time or you just recognize it now after some time using it?
 
faultiersid said:
do you mean the 2011 GH1 improved over time or you just recognize it now after some time using it?
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The latter; having now used it in situations where ISO 1600 can produce a properly exposed image, it looks good. However I do have to use my Standard +2,+2,0,-2 film mode, as Smooth does have noticeable noise. I suppose it's possible that it has improved but I've only been using it a week so I find it unlikely; I think the camera was shipped to me with less FPN :)
 
Hi Observe,

a first tip: Read the manual of the GH1.
Creative movie mode and film mode are not two options of the same setting. Film mode lets you decide how the Image should be processed AFTER it's shot. Contrast, Sharpnesss, Saturation etc.

CColton put the hand in front of the lens and locks the Exposure, so that he can be sure that this is the brightest setting. Of course, in normal situations this is way too bright.

In the menu, there is a setting for Auto ISO maximum. Set this to 1600.
 
faultiersid said:
Creative movie mode and film mode are not two options of the same setting. Film mode lets you decide how the Image should be processed AFTER it's shot. Contrast, Sharpnesss, Saturation etc.

CColton put the hand in front of the lens and locks the Exposure, so that he can be sure that this is the brightest setting. Of course, in normal situations this is way too bright.

In the menu, there is a setting for Auto ISO maximum. Set this to 1600.
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Exactly correct, thanks faultiersid, I hadn't gotten a chance to reply yet.

faultiersid said:
CColton put the hand in front of the lens and locks the Exposure, so that he can be sure that this is the brightest setting. Of course, in normal situations this is way too bright.
Click to expand...

Let me clarify this statement from "normal situations" to "situations with ample amounts of light."
 
CColton said:
Let me clarify this statement from "normal situations" to "situations with ample amounts of light."
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As I typed my words I thought exactly the same ;) With the kit lens a normal interior scene is often too dark.


I've recently made a test at ISO 800 and little underexposed with the new GH1. Of course, there's noise but to see the footage on my screen and not be disturbed by the green and violet lines over the footage is so satisfying :)

I was just about to buy a GH2 and accept not to shoot in Pal, but now this seems unnecessary. The only thing that is still interesting is the ETC-mode. Would like to see that on the GH1.
 
I have not been seeing, what I see as, any significant improvements in noise from changing settings. Only on close scrutiny do you see some slight improvement, but at the end of the day it's still noise and it's a long way off true inky blacks. I guess because I'm working on a project that has lots of low light shots, I'm should have spent a bit extra to get the GH2. Looks like time is needed in Neat Video, it's a truly amazing program for what it does, and is the only real way to get a good inky black without crushing the **** out of your footage.

As soon as a DSLR is released that is a great low light performer and can do high speed @ something like 300 fps at a decent res I'll be all over it, maybe 5 years away?? At least we have software that makes these things possible. Not to intentionally sidetrack but I think real key here is in use of these programs.
 
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