The. Lens. Thread.

squig said:
Have you looked at that compatible lens list? There's quite a few options there. I don't think the pentax can be modified but there are a couple of pentax lenses (the 55mm I think) that are OK. The Olympus OM 50/1.4 is a good one too.

The sigma is f/2.8-4.5 This seemed to be the best price on ebay- http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=360163368339

There's a huge library of pics taken with it on flickr. Don't know how it compares to the Tamron but if you google I'm sure you can find out.
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This lens wouldn't be the best choice for the 5D because of this: "DC lenses are exclusively designed for digital SLR cameras. The image circle (rear of lens) is made to match the smaller dimensions used for the image sensor on digital cameras. As a result these lenses are also more compact and lightweight, and are better matched to digital SLR cameras."

With Sigma, DC lenses are made for smaller sensors not full-frame sensors like the 5D.
 
Not needing the full imaging circle to be sharp allows manufactures to save money by making a lens that will work fine on the cropped sensors like APS-C and the GH1 micro 4/3rds but they will be not have full edge sharpness on FF chips. However, obviously FF glass works just fine on the smaller chips. This is one of my bigger reservations with the GH1.

Lenses are a huge investment. FF lenses have stood the test of time. This is the reason you can still use a Nikon AI lens from 60 years ago. Buying FF glass gives you confidence that your investment will be useable for a long long time on all kinds of cameras no matter what comes out. However, DX, DC, Micro 4/3rds, etc. lenses are all made specifically for the smaller imagers. And in the case of the GH1 (because of the unique micro 4/3rds lens mount) only on a micro 4/3rds camera which until it was announced simply didn't exist. So what's the likelyhood that 60 years from now you can still use your GH1 micro 4/3rds lenses on future different camera bodies? With a FF lens you can almost guarantee you'll be able to use that glass.

So, no problem for the GH1 you just buy adapters and use/buy manual FF glass, but do you want to shoot some stills once and awhile? Well, manual lens still shooting isn't the most fun so you'll STILL (get the Pun) need at least the kit lens to be able to use any of the auto functions for stills or for video.

OK, we're good. Kit lens for stills and auto video and then manual FF lenses for video, BUT the kit lens also happens to be F4 to F5.8. Now that's not very fast. What about DOF with that lens? So I need at least one auto lens that's fast to shoot stills and even shoot video with. How about the 30mm F1.4 sigma prime. That looks good. It's $420. 60mm equivalent FOV. Great basic lens. If this lens was FF I'd have the comfort knowing my purchase would be useable for a long time - but it's micro 4/3rds so I just don't know what the future holds. And in fact I know up front I can never use this lens FF if I ever go that way. And to make matters worse this is what Ken Rockwell has to say about it:

"If you shoot Canon, forget this Sigma and get the superior Canon 28mm f/1.8 EF for less money.

If you shoot Nikon, forget this dumpily-made Sigma and get the newest Nikon 35mm f/1.8 for half the price."

Not ringing praise. While Nikon for example has made DX lenses many owners of Nikon APS-C sized sensor cameras like say the D90 choose NOT to by the DX lens and instead get the FF Nikon lens because they know these lenses have a more universal history. Unfortunately with the GH1 there is no FF lens you can buy that will still allow you to use auto functions in either video or still mode.

Sorry for the rant.
 
Just tried out my 180 f/3.4 Leica. Oh my! this is a gorgeous lens, even wide open. It's sharp, contrasty and with lovely bokah. The focus scale runs to 2.5m which isn't very close, but takes a good 300 degrees to do it. Even at full aperture on a ff chip there's so little fall off as to be not worth bothering about. Only done stills so far as I'm still saving for my 5DII (And buying Leica glass..yeah)
Leitz don't put "Apo" on their lenses for nothing, unlike some dodgy 3rd division makers.
Dave
 
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how much did it cost you?

I'm looking at picking up an old elmarit-r 2.8/180 or maybe a zeiss sonnar 2.8/180 or 2.8/200 or a nikon ai/ai-s 2.8/180 if I can get one for a good price. Looking at either a pancolar or russian 50 if my rokkor with glass element looks like ****.

Good rant nathan. If I was shooting with the GH1 I wouldn't want anything slower than F/2.8 to get a shallow enough DOF on the 2x crop. F/4-5.6 is probably about right on the MKII. I've been trying to not shoot anything faster than f/2.8. When I got the D90 I was obsessed about getting fast glass. Now it's all about creamy bokeh.
 
Squig, hi....
It cost me £350 from Ffordes, up in Inverness.
TBH its a Leica made in Canada, so not as expensive as a German one methinks. there was another listed for £495.
Oh yes, I've been "working" the 85 f/2 Jupiter. and the focus is smoothing out. May get it lubed even so.
Cheers.
Dave
 
Hey all, lens question, and I hope it hasn't been covered.

I'm right on the edge of making the switch. Been shooting Nikon for about 2.5 years now, and have invested a little bit of money; battery grip, external flash, prime lens + zoom lens, etc. But the superb video capability of the 5D has me wanting it. I'm definitely a still shooter, but the thought of having video handy, and beautiful video at that, is amazing to me.

I'm considering selling all my gear and moving over to Canon. The only problem is the steep cost factor. Even with selling all of my gear, I'm still looking at about $1000 out of pocket just for the body. But of course I'll need a lens too. I know the kit lens (24-105) is a great lens and a bargain when bought with the kit ($800 vs its $1100 price tag). BUT, it's still $800 ($2699 for body, $3499 with kit lens). So, my question is, can I get at least in the same realm of performance with something a little less spendy? I've been considering the Tamron 28-75. It's $390, so half the cost of the Canon 24-105. Of course, I give up a little; less zoom, no IS. I'd eventually add a prime later, just as I did my Nikon...but right out of the gate, I need a trusty lens, primarily for stills, but would hold it's own for video as well. I've read good reviews about the Tamron. Is there any other I should consider? Like I said, the hurdle here is cost; if the Canon lens didn't shoot the price up $800, I'd be all over it. I'd like decent performance while keeping the costs down as much as possible. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
Entity said:
Hey. Do you have the SMC 50mm 1.4? I really want this lens and I have been reading all about filing lenses back parts down etc, but I don't know specifically what parts. I know that it is possible to modify this lens to work with the 5dmii, so I know that it is possible, I just don't know if it: (1) is beyond my expertise/abilities, (2) requires tools I don't have or can't buy cheaply, and (3) if I would risk damaging the lens.

So I was planning on just buying a hand file and buying the lens. I know that once I see it and see what exactly the problem is/where it hits i will know what to file. Is it this simple? Or do I not need to file anything? The list you posted (thanks btw), just says to "remove back ring and aperture lever." It doesn't say how to do that... Also, will removing the aperture level affect my ability to use the manual aperture ring? I assume no and that the lever is just for when you are using auto expose with a pentax body.

Final thing. There are two "EOS to K mount adapters" on ebay. One is twice as much and brags that it communicates electronically with the body so that it beeps when in focus. I think that this would be helpful, but it could potentially annoying if it beeped excessively or if the focus was a little off etc. Also if it beeped during video mode that would be a nightmare. What do you think the chances of that are?
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Yes, the SMC Pentax-M 50 f/1.4. A metal file or Dremel will do the job easily. Tin snips might even work, the lip is that thin. Just focus the lens at 0.45m, put gaffer's tape over everything you won't be cutting, to seal the lens from metal filings and particles, cut or file it, then use a dust blower on it for a while before turning the focus helical to remove any metal filings or particles that might have fallen in.

The AF confirm chips don't do anything in Live view mode.

For focusing stills, they're useful. Mainly at apertures of f/2.8 or wider. If your eyesight isn't great, I'd imagine they're very useful.

I bought the programmable Tago Tech standalone chip. I'm not totally convinced it's worth the extra money over the older type. I haven't attached it to an adapter, though. I have like 5 different adapter types, and this chip was $30, so I figured I'd find a way to put the chip in the camera, then put my various adapters on top of it, rather than buying 4 more chips and gluing them to the adapters. I may just wind up gluing this to my Nikon adapter anyway. We'll see.
 
PaulM said:
Yes, the SMC Pentax-M 50 f/1.4. A metal file or Dremel will do the job easily. Tin snips might even work, the lip is that thin. Just focus the lens at 0.45m, put gaffer's tape over everything you won't be cutting, to seal the lens from metal filings and particles, cut or file it, then use a dust blower on it for a while before turning the focus helical to remove any metal filings or particles that might have fallen in.

The AF confirm chips don't do anything in Live view mode.

For focusing stills, they're useful. Mainly at apertures of f/2.8 or wider. If your eyesight isn't great, I'd imagine they're very useful.

I bought the programmable Tago Tech standalone chip. I'm not totally convinced it's worth the extra money over the older type. I haven't attached it to an adapter, though. I have like 5 different adapter types, and this chip was $30, so I figured I'd find a way to put the chip in the camera, then put my various adapters on top of it, rather than buying 4 more chips and gluing them to the adapters. I may just wind up gluing this to my Nikon adapter anyway. We'll see.
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Thanks a lot. The only thing I am having trouble with is figuring out the difference between the SMC Pentax-M 50 f/1.4 and the SMC Pentax-A 50 f/1.4. I found something about it but it was so darn confusing. I just want to know how the quality of the actual glass compares and if I get any advantage if I buy the A version, which costs about twice as much on ebay.


Also, I don't know anything about chips or anything like that so I didn't understand any of that last part haha.
 
C_Smith said:
Hey all, lens question, and I hope it hasn't been covered.
So, my question is, can I get at least in the same realm of performance with something a little less spendy? I've been considering the Tamron 28-75. It's $390, so half the cost of the Canon 24-105. Of course, I give up a little; less zoom, no IS. I'd eventually add a prime later, just as I did my Nikon...but right out of the gate, I need a trusty lens, primarily for stills, but would hold it's own for video as well. I've read good reviews about the Tamron. Is there any other I should consider? Like I said, the hurdle here is cost; if the Canon lens didn't shoot the price up $800, I'd be all over it. I'd like decent performance while keeping the costs down as much as possible. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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That's pretty much the situation I am in as far as lenses. I am pretty sure I am going to go for that tamron. I am just wondering if I need IS. hmmm... There are some more expensive 3rd party lenses with IS.
 
I just changed from my D90 to the MKII because of the maual control update.
I bought the Tamron 28mm-75mm 2.8 and the Tamron 70-200mm 2.8. I'm pretty happy with the two lenses because of low-light plus zoom with fixed aperture . Auto Focus works pretty good in photo and video. The 70-200 is a little bit heavy. You have to use a good tripod. My old alu photo tripod is deffenetly to lightweight. I tried the merlin steady cam with the 28-75mm. You can get it balanced but the Merlin is at its limit.

Exanples:

Tamron 28mm-75mm only:
http://www.vimeo.com/5293882

Tamron 28mm-75mm + Tamron 70-200mm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kRZYNYP4I4
 
starcd said:
I just changed from my D90 to the MKII because of the maual control update.
I bought the Tamron 28mm-75mm 2.8 and the Tamron 70-200mm 2.8. I'm pretty happy with the two lenses because of low-light plus zoom with fixed aperture . Auto Focus works pretty good in photo and video. The 70-200 is a little bit heavy. You have to use a good tripod. My old alu photo tripod is deffenetly to lightweight. I tried the merlin steady cam with the 28-75mm. You can get it balanced but the Merlin is at its limit.

Exanples:

Tamron 28mm-75mm only:
http://www.vimeo.com/5293882

Tamron 28mm-75mm + Tamron 70-200mm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kRZYNYP4I4
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WHat do you mean fixed aperature? You can adjust it with these lenses can't you? Can't you do it via camera and lens? Nice shots by the way.
 
IS is useful for attempting lock off shots handsfree and using extreme telephotos

for panning its not so good

that 3.5-5.6 lens has a pretty dodgy focus ring action and position - the F4version is more usable

S
 
I own the 28-135 and love it for image stabilization, price, and versatility. I've seen it side by side with the 24-105 and IMO the image quality difference is negligible. Panning is definitely not ideal with the IS on, but you absolutely can hold a steady image at 135 handheld which is pretty ideal.

Also - you can get it for around $250 new on craigslist or ebay since it comes with the 50D/40D in a kit. Many people sell them because they don't need them.

For an all around lens it is great and when you consider that you can shoot at ISO 1250 with nearly no noise and that most handheld stuff is impossible to follow focus below an F4, the downsides of the lens become much less important.

I shot some of a music video last weekend with this lens. I was very quickly walking backwards facing towards the artists on about an 85mm with IS on. The shot is completely usable and I was moving really fast. Also - DOF at 135mm at a 5.6 is still super shallow.

To me. This lens turns my 5d into a video camera. When I need to shoot things like I used to shoot with my XH-A1, I throw on the 28-135. It gets the job done and the price is right at $250 for the lens.
 
For hand focusing I think the position of the focus is a no go

BUT I have some new positive thoughts about this lens relating to the use of a FF which is where I am going

pulling focus may be better with the focus barrel near to the camera - less detsabiliasing and side pressures of a FF would 'bend the camera mount' less

also the position of the focus from the front of the camera is similar to primes meaning less adjustment on your rails when moving from prime to zoom

do you have any comment on the focus movement compared to pro canon lenses

the focus is OK on the 24-105 but not smooth like my prime nikkors (the good ones anyway)


S
 
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Entity said:
WHat do you mean fixed aperature? You can adjust it with these lenses can't you? Can't you do it via camera and lens? Nice shots by the way.
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It means that the aperatue don't change when you zoom, what most of the kit lenses do.
You have manual controll of the aperature via the camera, not via the lens (which isn't necessary anymore because of the firmware update :)).
 
ryansheffer said:
I own the 28-135 and love it for image stabilization, price, and versatility. I've seen it side by side with the 24-105 and IMO the image quality difference is negligible. Panning is definitely not ideal with the IS on, but you absolutely can hold a steady image at 135 handheld which is pretty ideal.

Also - you can get it for around $250 new on craigslist or ebay since it comes with the 50D/40D in a kit. Many people sell them because they don't need them.

For an all around lens it is great and when you consider that you can shoot at ISO 1250 with nearly no noise and that most handheld stuff is impossible to follow focus below an F4, the downsides of the lens become much less important.

I shot some of a music video last weekend with this lens. I was very quickly walking backwards facing towards the artists on about an 85mm with IS on. The shot is completely usable and I was moving really fast. Also - DOF at 135mm at a 5.6 is still super shallow.

To me. This lens turns my 5d into a video camera. When I need to shoot things like I used to shoot with my XH-A1, I throw on the 28-135. It gets the job done and the price is right at $250 for the lens.
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Thanks a lot man. Two questions. Can you turn off the IS then for when you want to do pans? Otherwise it seems almost like a limiting factor. What is the problem with having it on for a pan? What happens?

Second Question: What do you think about what Morgan said? Is it hard to focus with this using your hands? Is the positioning weird, and how smooth is it? Thanks.



starcd said:
It means that the aperatue don't change when you zoom, what most of the kit lenses do.
You have manual controll of the aperature via the camera, not via the lens (which isn't necessary anymore because of the firmware update :)).
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Oh yeah, thanks. I just realized that's what you meant. I am kinda torn as far as what lenses to get. :(
 
Yes. You can switch IS on and off. When you pan you inconsistently get jumps in your image. Basically - the image stabilization is confused by a constant movement and compensates for movement it shouldn't compensate for. Not sure if that's technically correct. Basically - it makes the image jump when it shouldn't.

As far as focusing goes - At first, I was weirded out about hand focusing. But, hand focusing is all I have done with the lens and the focus position has not bothered me at all.
 
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