The Cool Lights LED 1200

Gotta see how well the 2nd dimmer would fit in the chassis. Also need to think about how many bank select switches we would do too and if we have room for that as well.
 
Not directly. There is a forthcoming battery interface which is an external box that allows plug in by lead acid batteries like that or places for 2 ab or v mount type batteries. At the output it can power 1 or 2 LED 1200s or 1 (future) LED 2400. I'll post more when the battery interface is done and ready to ship.
 
Richard,

I noticed that the CRI for the daylight flood is only 82. Will using the minus green filters increase the CRI? If so, by how much? And how much light loss from those filters?
 
Its the same CRI as the daylight flood 600, same LEDs so that's why. Minus green filters do increase CRI. Its counteracting the green by adding in missing red and getting us back to a more balanced state. You lose about 1/3 of the light with such a filter. Take a low CRI 5600K fluorescent tube and a high CRI 5600K fluorescent tube. The main difference will be increased green in the low CRI one but higher lumen output values. The high CRI tube has less green and better red coverage in the spectrum but you lose light. You've really added a filter in the high CRI tube by changing the composition of the phosphors. Adding an external minus green filter to the low CRI tube is pretty much accomplishing the same thing, just on the outside of the tube.

Its the case across the board, given the same wattage, relatively same light medium, and all other things being equal besides CRI, the lower CRI will beat the higher CRI in light output.
 
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Are there going to be any lower wattage and spots with the new higher cri LEDs and bi-color?
 
Richard,

Thank you for explaining the minus green filters. I just realized that using the filter will change the color temperature of the light. So my question is: is it possible to adjust the daylight flood so that you get a color temperature of about 5600K and a CRI of about 90?

If not, then I would lean more towards the bi-color panel. One question about that: Are both dimmers proportional to each other? You mentioned that if both are at full level, then the color temperature is 6000K. So if you turn both dimmers to half, will you still have 6000K, but just half the light?
 
I would say the effective CRI after minus green is between 85 and 90. It doesn't change color temperature that much if at all, it is mainly counteracting the green spike which has nothing to do with color temperature. You can have a 5600K light with a green spike and one without and they are both still 5600K, one is lower CRI, that's all. Yes if you change both to half (exactly same amount), the overall color temperature should still be 6000K but you have just reduced the intensity. Bank select switches work well for that too when turning off 1 from each set it reduced intensity of panel by 1/3 for each switch.
 
On a commercial to be shot in next 2 weeks i ordered a whole set of litepanels, my line producer got back to say that we are out of luck as the only light they have is a bunch of cool lights (that he never hear of) i made sure to calm him down that the light is comparable to litepanels... Real, in field review coming in in just a few days.
 
Hey Richard,

I'm new to LED's to this might be a common question, but...

From what I understand it the Bi-Colour 1200 LED light is half warm leds and half cool leds. Now with models like the Litepanels the way I read it you are blending the two LEDs so their 1x1 panel is 600 warm and 600 blue leds and as it's blending between the two, you get a consistent 600 led output.

Whereas from what you're saying I'm understanding that you get 1200 LED output because when turned on you get 600 warm leds + 600 cool leds - at a blended temperature of 600k.

The way you blend the light is to dim one or the sets of leds (the warm or the cool) which will reduce the output (from it's original, higher, value). So say I cut down the warm leds by 1/3rd I'm essentially having 1000 leds worth of light (600 warm, 400 cool equivalent) etc.

Is that right or am I missing a trick?

Edit - Whilst I'm at it I saw on reduser you quoted the 1200 LED flood at 840 lux at 10 feet. I compared this to the Litepanels 1x1 bi-colour which is 370 lux at 8ft and 160 lux at 12 feet so 210 lux at 10 feet.

This suggests to me the Litepanels starts at 600 leds (not 1200 - I asked them once on email and they never replied!), and then gets halved at 1/2 the leds are warm/cool and it blends them by bumping the power to one whilst reducing the other - giving 300 led output - hence the output that is 1/4 the CL 1200 above.

Therefore your 1200 LED is not blending them but having the addition of both which you then reduce via blending, so at max output is 4x that of the litepanels 1x1 bi colour.

Is my uneducated brain right? As if so it seems a better option to me where I'm looking for a strong single light.
 
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I first floated a similar idea in early 2008, right here in post #9, idea #1 of this thread:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthrea...-LED500-Light-Review&highlight=leds+2+dimmers

Well before Litepanels released their "bi-color" model. Here was my first version from Summer 2007, alternating rows of 3200K and 5600K with 2 dimmers to independently control the 2 sets:

LEDPanelCm.jpg


Since that time, the idea evolved and was trying to figure out how to get the most out of all the LEDs on the panel so you weren't just using 1/2 of them at any one time. The idea of the "tuned" panel seemed like a natural to me and allowed the mixture of more extreme bluish high color temp with an extreme reddish low color temp giving a much better CRI possible than either set alone could have. Filling out the spectrum better to make the light more full. This is really competing in the HMI area.

For those wanting daylight 6000K mostly, this really is a good option. Then those occasional times you need 3200K by itself, you turn down half the LEDs. If you should ever need 10000K, for say a nighttime / moonlight scene, you've got it. Need 4100K to mix and match with an office setting, then that's easy, just turn down the "blue" dimmer a bit till you've got that slightly more yellowish range white light.

Back to your question. I don't know the exact number of LEDs on the bi-color 1x1 but I think its under 600. The information on their site is pretty sparse, they don't think it necessary to give detailed specs about number of LEDs, nature of the mixture, etc. Seems like their upper end is 5600K and lower end is 3200K so it sounds like simple crossfading between two sets of LEDs (about 300 of each or so), similar to my original idea from that thread. Maybe someone else has seen the panel and worked with it so can give better details on that. I like my idea better.
 
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richard-

thank you for being so available to this forum to discuss your lights.

as a longtime user of "hot" lights-rifa, arri 650s, lowel tota-i look forward to using your new 1200.

if there is a waiting list, please sign me up.

be well

rob
smalltalk productions
 
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