The Cool Lights LED 1200

Cool Lights said:
Back to your question. I don't know the exact number of LEDs on the bi-color 1x1 but I think its under 600. The information on their site is pretty sparse, they don't think it necessary to give detailed specs about number of LEDs, nature of the mixture, etc. Seems like their upper end is 5600K and lower end is 3200K so it sounds like simple crossfading between two sets of LEDs (about 300 of each or so), similar to my original idea from that thread. Maybe someone else has seen the panel and worked with it so can give better details on that. I like my idea better.
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Aye I much prefer the idea that if you're buying a 1200 led panel then you're starting off with 1200 led's worth of light. Whereas with the other style that you mentioned you might get a 600 led panel but are only getting 300 led's worth of light.

Plus, if you don't want to dim one of the panels you can always gel it, if you really need a bit of correction but want the full power of the lights.

Oh whilst I think of it though, Richard, I'm in the UK - do I need anything special to work the lights other than an adapter or can I get them w/a UK plug etc?
 
We use an IEC style plug on all our fixtures so its easy to change out the plug to a local style in each case. In case you didn't know, IEC is an international standard where one side of the plug is the same in all countries and the other side differs based on what your common wall outlet is like. Its commonly used on desktop PCs for example so that a manufacturer doesn't have to make hundreds of different supplies for all the different countries of the world. We sell all ours with IEC cords about 16 feet long so it can be a little hard to locate an IEC plug thats 16 feet long if you want a real replacement. Of course, you could also just add a mechanical plug adapter to the end too and that works as well.
 
I was thinking about the colour shift of LED's and the need for a -Green gel and how this relates to a bi-colour model. From what I remember the issue is less about green and more about red, and the need to bring a bit of red back into the spectrum. With that in mind, Richard, you said the bi-colour model is about 6000k and that there's no need for gels as you can dim the cool or warm channel as required.

But it made me think - does this mean that actually there's an advantage to the bi-colour b/c you can have a 6000k source that is in essence a 5600k source with a bit more red and blue added - i.e. how things would end up with a -Green gel anyways? Or is it going to end up as being a bit too hot for daylight sources by comparison? Essentially I'm trying to figure out if the fact we start off at 6k vs, say, 5600k, is actually an advantage due to the CRI/green shift/need for a bit of a red boost etc.
 
We chose 6000K as the normal color temperature the panel is tuned to because that's the color temperature of typical Osram HMI bulbs. HMIs are the standard for being used for fighting daylight when necessary.

The gel used on many LED panels is a minus green not a green, the issue was taking away green and a minus green does that for you. No minus green needed on the bi-color versions. If you want to tune down the 5600K from 6000K that's only 400K and not enough to tell much difference. Just a hair turn down on the blue pot if you really want to do it.
 
When the LEDs you buy from your supplier starts to number in the millions as ours has, then you have more clout. That being said, you still have to work within the limitations of what LED suppliers can do today. We have come up with our own inventive solutions to bridge between what they can do for us and what customers need and they work well for us. I won't be able to go into detail about what our internal processes are though.
 
I'm thinking about putting together a 4 x 1200 kit (or possibly 3 x 1200). Any advice on a hard case for this? Something like the Litepanels 4 x bi-color kit hard case would be great. We currently use 4 x Kino Flo Diva's and are looking for more portability.
 
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a few of these. I'm wondering should I go with the 5600 or 3200. I would prefer to buy them all the same and gell if I need to. I'm thinking 3200s actually.

Any thoughts anyone?
 
This thread is specifically about the bi-color 1200's. This means that you can adjust the color to match your scene whether it's 3200 or 5600.

EDIT: I just noticed that Cool Lights also sells a daylight only version of the 1200 for $200 less. I don't see a tungsten version though. I'd spend the extra cash and get the bi-color version, then you don't have to decide which to buy (3200 vs 5600).
 
I see.

I was also going to get some 600's. The more I think about it maybe the daylight is the best way to go. But yeah, bi-color on the 1200 for sure.
 
Richard

Quick question. How do the LED fixtures compare to fluorescent fixtures in terms of total light output? How much does the 1200 led fixture kick out compared to the cl 455p fixture for example?

Thanks
 
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