Sony FX3 camcorder registered - 8K?

I tried that and it didn't work for me on a7siii/28-135/fs7 handgrip. It was extremely slow to respond or did not respond at all

Oh! That is good to hear... or not! Obviously, something has changed on these later cameras. So I guess it's back to the tiny rocker on the side then. Or are there any other options I was thinking? This got me to remembering something Dan Chung did some years back. I was able to find his article on hacking a Sony VCT-VPR1. That got me to thinking of possible later solutions and got me searching. I found two videos of the FF 28-135, which I believe you have being controlled fairly quickly by both the later GP-VPT1 using a cable connection and the later Sony GP-VPT2BT Wireless Shooting Grip that uses Blue Tooth. I don't know if you use a rig or how you set your camera up but the Dan Chung Newsshoter write-up and the two YT clips might give you some ideas. Like most basic zoom controllers no super variable speeds available. Though if you are not using the zoom while rolling both controllers offer the ability for shot size changes using the servo capability of the lens.

Chris Young

EDIT:

Just discovered this unit. Similar to the Sony VPT2BT. Lists a range of cameras including the A7Siii.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bluetooth-...451395?hash=item2afdf70783:g:fTwAAOSwl4FfqlyD

https://www.newsshooter.com/2014/08...s-control-grip-with-startstop-and-servo-zoom/

On BH I notice that some of the earlier cameras must have their latest firmware upgrades for the VPT2BT to function.

Sony GP-VPT2BT Bluetooth Camera Remote


Sony GP-VPT1 Remote Control Tripod

 
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Personally I feel myself very happy and well-staffed with the decision for the C300iii / R5 combo.
You can't have all but they cover almost everything of my needs.
.

Those cameras Id choose.. (not that ive studied the r5 vs r6) but they are too expensive. Im thinkg C200 and M50ii the poor mans version :)

S
 
Those cameras Id choose.. (not that ive studied the r5 vs r6) but they are too expensive. Im thinkg C200 and M50ii the poor mans version :)

S

the C300iii is 9,800€ net and the R5 is 3,800 net. That's 13,600€ total
Let's estimate a low value after 3 yrs of 3,500 and 1,500€. That is in total 5,000€
Both cameras cost you over 36 months 8,600€ which is 238.88€ per month

If you only have 5 paid days per month (60 per year) and you charge only
200€ for the C300iii and 80€ for the R5.. well you can do the summary of the math
by yourself.

Compared to the C200 you will have 4K 10bit 422 up to 120p and a far superior AF.
 
Supposedly, the official announcement will be on the 23rd. Until then, the full specs are still a guessing game.
 
What are the main selling points of the FX3 in general and in comparison to A7sIII and R5, without knowing all the specs?
So you're losing a viewfinder and in its place your gaining attach points without having to add a cage. There's speculation of built in variable electronic ND that would be nice although looks like there are no physical controls.
Are those two selling point enough and at what price? I'm assuming it would need to be above the A7SIII and below the FX6... $4,000 or in marketing terms $3,998.99? Is this marketed towards higher end Youtube channels/vloggers/gimbal/crash cam (for cars and reality tv).
Is this a play against Black Magic Pocket cameras?
 
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Personally I feel myself very happy and well-staffed with the decision for the C300iii / R5 combo.
You can't have all but they cover almost everything of my needs. The workflow is easy
and the ROI after 9 months looks very promising. Fingers crossed.

We have similar (the same) taste. I'm loving my C300 III and R5. If I wanted to add another camera, it'd probably be the C70.
 
Oh! That is good to hear... or not! Obviously, something has changed on these later cameras. So I guess it's back to the tiny rocker on the side then. Or are there any other options I was thinking? This got me to remembering something Dan Chung did some years back. I was able to find his article on hacking a Sony VCT-VPR1. That got me to thinking of possible later solutions and got me searching. I found two videos of the FF 28-135, which I believe you have being controlled fairly quickly by both the later GP-VPT1 using a cable connection and the later Sony GP-VPT2BT Wireless Shooting Grip that uses Blue Tooth. I don't know if you use a rig or how you set your camera up but the Dan Chung Newsshoter write-up and the two YT clips might give you some ideas. Like most basic zoom controllers no super variable speeds available. Though if you are not using the zoom while rolling both controllers offer the ability for shot size changes using the servo capability of the lens.

Chris Young

Thanks, Chris. I'll have to give that bluetooth controller a look. I remember looking at some bluetooth controllers but they didn't seem as instantly or consistently reliable as the hard-wired controller, so I went with the RM-VPR1.

It's reliable, although I don't love the physical design or the cable that it uses. I use it clipped to the bar between my primary and side handgrips on the Ronin-S, but I need to improve the configuration. You can get 2 different speeds from the unit, but I just set it to a single speed so there's no chance of mucking up the zooming with awkward accelerations because the buttons are rather finicky.

I mostly use it for Clear Image Zoom on other lenses because the 28-135 is usually not what I'm flying. But it's a great, great tool to have and has upped my game in the "live" style gimbal shooting (which, for me, is mostly gallery exhibition tours).

Being able to zoom in smoothly and increase magnification while keeping both hands in their stability/support positions has been clutch, and it's all enabled by not having to manually pull focus.
 
Maybe it is time to forget sony consumer cameras. Clearly Sony have little interest in providing the elements that make them usable on professional shoots.

Ahalpert.. you put a lot of time into thinking about these cams.. maybe it is just a waste!

A few things:

1. I do a lot of Ronin-S gimbal flying and I really want a lightweight camera and don't need audio inputs. Using the A7SIII and just going from the Samyang 18 (145g) to the Sony 12-24 f/4 (565g) makes a really noticeable difference in arm fatigue after a straight hour shooting. And if I got another camera, I'd still be using the 12-24 because it's nearly perfect for my needs. A similar weight Canon or Panasonic camera will probably have all the same drawbacks minus some of the benefits (like Clear Image Zoom - is that a thing on other brands?) If the FX3 had LANC, similar weight, and eND, it would be a winner. Still not sure I would trade in though.

2. Mirrorless cameras are quite common as a B/gimbal camera and even as an A camera in several of the sectors I shoot in. In doc/corporate, it's often a B/gimbal camera to my FS7. If it's a gimbal-only shoot, it'll be my A camera. In the wedding space, most of the shooters I know are using DSLRs and mirrorless. A lot of the operation and performance issues I'm trying to solve are sort of bonus capabilities to improve my footage beyond what's expected and required of the shoot.

3. These are the cheapest options that will get the job done for me. Especially comparing the 28-135 to the Canon 18-80 - the 18-80 may be a superior lens, but the 28-135 will do what I need it to do (big range, smooth zoom) for a fraction of the price and with the sensitivity and DOF benefits of full-frame.

So, I mean - I'm not doing a lot of true ENG. Mostly I'm doing interviews, beauty shots, and gimbal work. Frankly, I don't even run into any of the audio issues that other folks do because it's rare that I have a shoot that can't be dual system sound.

The FX6 could be cool. I'd gladly trade my FS7 in for that if the demand arrives. (I'm just starting to see job posts requesting the FX9.) But I already have an FS7 doing different things than my A7SIII. Going FX6 wouldn't change that dynamic because I probably wouldn't use it on a gimbal.
 
^+1 What Abe said. Now when I look at the range being discussed, 28-135, 18-80, thinking of the dollars and sense of it, my GH5s with PanaLeica 12-60mm (24-120 FF 35mm equiv) overlaps some of the coverage range, small and light, flys on a gimbal, focuses well, kinda reinforces M43 benefits and why it was popular before we jumped off the bandwagon.
 
Thanks, Chris. I'll have to give that bluetooth controller a look. I remember looking at some bluetooth controllers but they didn't seem as instantly or consistently reliable as the hard-wired controller, so I went with the RM-VPR1.

It's reliable, although I don't love the physical design or the cable that it uses. I use it clipped to the bar between my primary and side handgrips on the Ronin-S, but I need to improve the configuration. You can get 2 different speeds from the unit, but I just set it to a single speed so there's no chance of mucking up the zooming with awkward accelerations because the buttons are rather finicky.

I mostly use it for Clear Image Zoom on other lenses because the 28-135 is usually not what I'm flying. But it's a great, great tool to have and has upped my game in the "live" style gimbal shooting (which, for me, is mostly gallery exhibition tours).

Being able to zoom in smoothly and increase magnification while keeping both hands in their stability/support positions has been clutch, and it's all enabled by not having to manually pull focus.

Have you thought about the DJI RS2? With PZ lenses the focus wheel can control the zoom, or it can be connected to the camera's digital zoom. The RS2's object tracking and focusing functions combined with the a7s3's AF looks like a great run and gun combo.

Chris
 
Have you thought about the DJI RS2? With PZ lenses the focus wheel can control the zoom, or it can be connected to the camera's digital zoom. The RS2's object tracking and focusing functions combined with the a7s3's AF looks like a great run and gun combo.

Chris

The main problem is: the zoom control doesn't want to be a wheel, it wants to be a rocker. I can control the lens zoom on my Ronin-S (not digital zoom) with the focus wheel and the motor attached to the zoom ring. But that means I'm controlling the speed by the turn of the hand, it's not at a constant speed as with a rocker. And I can't endlessly keep turning. My wrist rotation runs out of runway on a big zoom.

What I really want is to map an axis of the joystick to the focus wheel but that's not a possibility. The only native way I've found to connect a rocker style control to the focus wheel is with a bluetooth video game controller, where you can map one of the joysticks to the focus wheel. But that comes with its own problems.

Even the flimsy T/W buttons on my Sony camera remote control are a more friendly zoom control (for clear image zoom) than the handwheel.

Doesn't the Ronin-S have object tracking and focus as well? I'm a little leery of handing over the operating to the machine. But to be honest, I don't know how it works. Can it really be set and changed quickly enough to reselect subjects in a run and gun situation? What if I want to change my composition and put them to the edge of frame? etc

The RS2 is an obvious improvement but I'd only drop coin if it does smoother stabilization.

They have a tethered handgrip for it, but the index finger gets a wheel and not a rocker
 
I have no idea what the US price will be, but I found this via a quick Google search:

"Sony may soon release the FX3, a cinema camera version of the full-frame A7S III mirrorless camera, according to several leaks. It would come with a 12-megapixel sensor, 4K 120 fps video and a price tag of €3,795, which may fall under $4,000 based on Sony's usual European vs. US prices. "
https://finance.yahoo.com/news/sony-fx3-cinema-camera-rumor-103058727.html

I'm not vouching for the accuracy of any of that. I guess we'll know. soon... and we'll know if there really is some sort of ND functionality in the FX3...
 
I get it. You want a small and light professional camera - you might even be prepared to pay for it.

But none such exists. And for gimbal work small and light comes above professional. With ensuing workarounds.

essentially, although cheap doesn't hurt. but yeah- considering that the a7siii is lighter and more compact than an fx6 and yet has an evf and a screen on board and ibis (which helps because a lot of my stuff from that camera needs to be deliverable and won't be color corrected let alone catalyst stabilized).

eND would be terrific, much better than auto ISO for when the occasion calls for mid-shot exposure adjustments. (although I do have remote control for ISO or aperture via the wifi smartphone app if I wanted to control it myself).

but given that I have false color on my 7" monitor and I don't need to run audio into the camera, the drawbacks of the system are limited.

and with the zoom control options - frankly I'm just so close to having what I want...but may never fully get there

but the FX6 doesn't have touch focus tracking which I can do on the a7siii via wifi smartphone app - sweet!
 
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