Shutter speed?!? How to know when it is needed?!
- Thread starter DYORD
- Start date
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_speed
The camera records one frame every 1/60 second, but it does not necessarily expose it for a whole 1/60 of a second.
The camera records one frame every 1/60 second, but it does not necessarily expose it for a whole 1/60 of a second.
AndrewGentle
Well-known member
If you don't 'turn on' the shutter the camera will choose whatever shutter speed it wants to expose the picture. The effect changing the shutter speed has on the image is the amount of motion blur and the amount of light.
60 fps is the frame rate of your camera, which is separate to the shutter speed. The shutter speed at 60 fps can be 1/60 or faster. 1/60 shutter speed at 60 fps exposes the image for the longest possible duration. Most films are shot at what's called 180º shutter angle. For 60 fps, a 180º shutter angle is 1/30. If you imagine the spinning shutter in a film camera, a shutter which exposes the frame for half the time has 180º blacked out. It's good practice to shoot with a 180º shutter angle unless you're going for a special effect since it gives an amount of motion blur similar to what you see with your eyes.
60 fps is the frame rate of your camera, which is separate to the shutter speed. The shutter speed at 60 fps can be 1/60 or faster. 1/60 shutter speed at 60 fps exposes the image for the longest possible duration. Most films are shot at what's called 180º shutter angle. For 60 fps, a 180º shutter angle is 1/30. If you imagine the spinning shutter in a film camera, a shutter which exposes the frame for half the time has 180º blacked out. It's good practice to shoot with a 180º shutter angle unless you're going for a special effect since it gives an amount of motion blur similar to what you see with your eyes.
rstorm
Active member
i was reading the HVX200's operating manual and was also wondering about shutter speeds. it talks about when shooting with artificial lighting you have to set the shutter speed according the artificial lightings frequency?
i will be shooting with artificial lighting in a location i can not test in at the moment. setting will be 720/24PN film mode. is it ok to just have the shutter at angles like 180.0d?
i will be shooting with artificial lighting in a location i can not test in at the moment. setting will be 720/24PN film mode. is it ok to just have the shutter at angles like 180.0d?
polfilmblog
Well-known member
"does the shutter speed affects the noise/grain of the output?!? My problem with 180deg shutter... is it's too dark. Especially when using in low light condition."
You'll probably want to go to 24fps instead of 60fps.
The "180 degree" shutter is old school terminology for having the shutter open 50% of the time (180 is half of 360 degrees).
If you're at 60fps, then your 50% of time shutter will be 1/120th of a second. This is more than a stop faster than the equivalent shutter speed of 1/48th, if you stick to 24fps.
Meaning, it will brighten up by more than a stop by doing this.
Your 35mm adapter will also cost you light. You may need to crank up the wattage significantly if you want to continue as planned. Doubling the wattage (500w to 1000w) will give you another stop of light. You will also need to double all the fill lights.
Another BIG factor is the color temperature of the light. Sensors are usually designed for daylight (5500K) light, which is why they look really good in sunlight. If you're using standard incandescents and flourescents (2700K), you are not giving enough blue light. This leaves the blue channel with lots of noise.
HMIs and daylight balanced bulbs are the answer there. You can gel your tungsten lights toward blue, but this reduces output significantly. Answer: more wattage.
You'll probably want to go to 24fps instead of 60fps.
The "180 degree" shutter is old school terminology for having the shutter open 50% of the time (180 is half of 360 degrees).
If you're at 60fps, then your 50% of time shutter will be 1/120th of a second. This is more than a stop faster than the equivalent shutter speed of 1/48th, if you stick to 24fps.
Meaning, it will brighten up by more than a stop by doing this.
Your 35mm adapter will also cost you light. You may need to crank up the wattage significantly if you want to continue as planned. Doubling the wattage (500w to 1000w) will give you another stop of light. You will also need to double all the fill lights.
Another BIG factor is the color temperature of the light. Sensors are usually designed for daylight (5500K) light, which is why they look really good in sunlight. If you're using standard incandescents and flourescents (2700K), you are not giving enough blue light. This leaves the blue channel with lots of noise.
HMIs and daylight balanced bulbs are the answer there. You can gel your tungsten lights toward blue, but this reduces output significantly. Answer: more wattage.
AndrewGentle
Well-known member
That is true for certain types of lighting like fluorescent, HMI and certain types of LED lighting. You'll probably have to check for information about what shutter speeds you can use in the manuals HMIs but typically with florescent you can use a shutter of 1/60 since that's the same frequency that the electricity supply in North America runs at. Do some tests to make sure you don't get weird pulsing or flickering before you have to shoot something important.
I wouldn't say 'designed', it's just a property of silicon that it's less sensitive to the blue end of the spectrum.