Shooting snow/ skiing on a t2i (video)

A

Aamli

Member
Did get to shoot some skiing this winter:


But when shooting snow/ skiing. I often have to close the iris all the way down, cause its to bright. Some times I even have to increase
the shutter, just to get the image darker.

Would you suggest just normal ND filters or vari ND? Would a polarizing filter be good?
 
Nice shots !!! Definitely a Circular Polarizer and at least an ND-4(Hoya HMC designation). For mid-day sun and snow you'll need ND-8 and the Cir-Pol. With these three filters you'll be able to cover from near dark to the brightest mid-day sun on the snow. Yes, it's a pain and takes time to swap around, but essential to getting that perfect exposure. Another hint is to buy filters for your largest lens you might want and order a step-up ring to work with each of your lenses. To me a few screw on filters like this are the least expense and hassle factor vs usefulness, especially on a stabilizer at speed on the mtn.

Cheers,
Pete
 
c3hammer said:
Nice shots !!! Definitely a Circular Polarizer and at least an ND-4(Hoya HMC designation). For mid-day sun and snow you'll need ND-8 and the Cir-Pol. With these three filters you'll be able to cover from near dark to the brightest mid-day sun on the snow. Yes, it's a pain and takes time to swap around, but essential to getting that perfect exposure. Another hint is to buy filters for your largest lens you might want and order a step-up ring to work with each of your lenses. To me a few screw on filters like this are the least expense and hassle factor vs usefulness, especially on a stabilizer at speed on the mtn.

Cheers,
Pete
Click to expand...
Thank you for a great reply! So you wouldn't suggest variable ND filters?
 
Vraiable ND filters are much, much easier to use than the regular ND filters in changing light conditions. The regular ND can be a real PITA, always having to screw on and take off, and stacking multiple filters. Especially in winter, if you are wearing gloves, your hands are cold, or trying to track action sports.

The problem is that some - most - of the variable ND filters have a bit of a color cast at some densities. They can also cause distortion or blurry images,, especially with telephoto lenses.

I was just reading about some infra red filtration ND filters from Tiffen that promise to give better results. Apparently the ND on the visable light lets in proportionally more infra red, leading to the color casts?

I haven't seen a review of those yet, or other newer generation variable ND's. I saw an add for newer Pro Light Craft ND filters. I was going to buy their $129 Mark II ND filter recently, but backed off because of some reviews.

You might check one of the equipment threads, maybe "Support Gear", or do an online search. Philip Bloom has a post from about 1 year ago saying the Heliopan Variable ND was the best he has used so far, at $330. There is also a Singh Ray that is popular at the $300+ mark.

Really a mixed bag. Some people avoid the variable at all cost and make do with screw on. Some don't mind, some don't see a problem (it may depend on how picky and/or educated your eye is.)

Good luck!
Michael
 
I've never actually used a variable ND personally, so I can't say for sure. I had read the reviews on the less expensive ones and defiitely wanted to stay away from that. The better ones are still soft relative to screw on's and way more expensive up front. To me it was more cost effective to buy one or two at a time until I built up my collection and now have a full set to do nearly anything I want.

Here's a sample with two ND-4's and the Cir-Pol on a 24mm L on a T3i. As you can see even with three filters the sharpness is in no way effected. This is ML 1080p video captured at 3fps then played back at 30fps, not a series of stills processed into a timelapse. The first scene was recoreded right about 1:00pm in the brightest part of the day!
https://vimeo.com/42294944

I'll agree the hassle of screwing on and off filters is an issue, but you basically set it for a scene you're working and go. Reset when the light changes or you move to a new scene. I haven't had much issue with it being a hassle or have ever missed a shot because I needed to change right then. That was all my reasoning and I've been extremely happy with how it's worked for me. YMMV

Cheers,
Pete
 
Vraiable ND filters are much, much easier to use than the regular ND filters in changing light conditions. The regular ND can be a real PITA, always having to screw on and take off, and stacking multiple filters. Especially in winter, if you are wearing gloves, your hands are cold, or trying to track action sports.

The problem is that some - most - of the variable ND filters have a bit of a color cast at some densities. They can also cause distortion or blurry images,, especially with telephoto lenses.

I was just reading about some infra red filtration ND filters from Tiffen that promise to give better results. Apparently the ND on the visable light lets in proportionally more infra red, leading to the color casts?

I haven't seen a review of those yet, or other newer generation variable ND's. I saw an add for newer Pro Light Craft ND filters. I was going to buy their $129 Mark II ND filter recently, but backed off because of some reviews.

You might check one of the equipment threads, maybe "Support Gear", or do an online search. Philip Bloom has a post from about 1 year ago saying the Heliopan Variable ND was the best he has used so far, at $330. There is also a Singh Ray that is popular at the $300+ mark.

Really a mixed bag. Some people avoid the variable at all cost and make do with screw on. Some don't mind, some don't see a problem (it may depend on how picky and/or educated your eye is.)

Good luck!
Michael
Click to expand...

I think I will go for regular ND-filters then! Seems cheaper



c3hammer said:
I've never actually used a variable ND personally, so I can't say for sure. I had read the reviews on the less expensive ones and defiitely wanted to stay away from that. The better ones are still soft relative to screw on's and way more expensive up front. To me it was more cost effective to buy one or two at a time until I built up my collection and now have a full set to do nearly anything I want.

Here's a sample with two ND-4's and the Cir-Pol on a 24mm L on a T3i. As you can see even with three filters the sharpness is in no way effected. This is ML 1080p video captured at 3fps then played back at 30fps, not a series of stills processed into a timelapse. The first scene was recoreded right about 1:00pm in the brightest part of the day!
https://vimeo.com/42294944

I'll agree the hassle of screwing on and off filters is an issue, but you basically set it for a scene you're working and go. Reset when the light changes or you move to a new scene. I haven't had much issue with it being a hassle or have ever missed a shot because I needed to change right then. That was all my reasoning and I've been extremely happy with how it's worked for me. YMMV

Cheers,
Pete
Click to expand...

Thanks! Going to check out some ND filters tomorrow!
 
Also a more intense UV filter can help a lot with all that reflected sunlight.

-Noah
 
A cheaper still way to get ND filters is to use Cokin P-mount filters. They're square slot-in filters, but much smaller than full-on cinema filters - roughly 3" square. You need a filter holder (usually holds three filters), adapter rings to each of the lenses you want to mount the filters onto, and then the filters themselves. I have adaptor rings for 52, 58, 62 and 77 filter threads. The filter holder just clips onto the adapter rings and allows pretty quick exchanging of filters between lenses, and as the filters just slot in and out of the holder, they're easy to swap out in a hurry. Also, if you're using ND grads, you can shift the "horizon line" on the grad up or down to meet the needs of the frame. My latest ND2 filter only cost £14.99 GBP, so they're nice and cheap.

If I'm not wrong, I believe Vari-NDs are actually just crossed circular polarisers, and that's how they vary density with rotation. You can achieve a similar look on the cheap with two circular polariser filters.
 
I love the footage...now I have a question. How should the filters stack on the lenses...

Should it be ND filters at the base then the Circle Polariser at the top?
 
I've always put the ND's on first then the cir pol. The cir pol is easier to get to out front and I find that other filters get stuck on the outside of it and are a tiny bit tougher to get off with gloves. I'm sure as far as function it doesn't matter.

Cheers,
Pete
 
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