shooting 3D ?

[AlainP]

Hi all,

I have 2 5dMrkII and I would like to try to do a 3D video with them. you know, the stuff you look with red/blue glasses.

I am totally aware that it wont be perfect, but by placing one camera upside down next to the other, I should be able to get them close enough to product something decent.

My question is: once I have the footage, what am I supposed to do next? I have tried to google around and could not find any tutorial. Probable because I dont know the keywords...

Has anyone tried this?

 

[Lee Wilson]

Red/Blue stereoscopy is pretty straightforward to record and produce, record two images, filter them (in something like After Effects/Photoshop) - layer them and make a quicktime . . .



No need for two lenses, one 3d lens on a single SLR gives pretty cool results.

http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_3dcap.html

 

[fates]

I wonder if you rotated the Loreo 90 degrees if that would still retain a stereo FOV. Probably not, right? Otherwise you've got a 4x6 vertical crop and that would suck...

Since you have 2 5d's (you f*ckin basterd ;-) )....Two cameras side by side would be the best, here's a mount system: http://www.3dstereo.com/viewmaster/bar-ttc.html

 

[AlainP]

Thx for the links. My questions are more regarding these points:
- what should be the distance between the lens according to the focal length?
- what is the post process? It cant be just to applied colored filters? its too simple!
- I have seen some clips where the video moves very quickly from one camera to the next (no blue/red tint). The effect was not as good as with tinted images, but at least you could look at it without 3d gasses. Any idea about how to do it?

And yes, having 2x5dMrkII is great. I just wish there was a way to sync them.

 

[Lee Wilson]

Thx for the links. My questions are more regarding these points:
- what should be the distance between the lens according to the focal length?

Take the distance between your eyes as a starting point . . . setting the cameras wider apart imparts more depth to the image, bringing them closer together flattens the image.

what is the post process? It cant be just to applied colored filters? its too simple!

For Red/Blue stereoscopy simply apply a coloured filter (in post) to each image, it really isn't rocket science !

I have seen some clips where the video moves very quickly from one camera to the next (no blue/red tint). The effect was not as good as with tinted images, but at least you could look at it without 3d gasses. Any idea about how to do it?

I don't understand, your language is vague. I have no clue what "the video moves very quickly from one camera to the next" means ?

You can place two full colour images (with stereoscopic offset) next to each other on a computer screen - you can then simply cross your eyes and with a little practice merge the two images into a single 3D image - it's surprisingly easy once you know how.

And yes, having 2x5dMrkII is great. I just wish there was a way to sync them.

I am sure there is a way . . . . let me think for a while.

 

[Lee Wilson]

And yes, having 2x5dMrkII is great. I just wish there was a way to sync them.

Ok, this should work.

Set the two cameras up identically - even the still image settings need to be identical - place two same brand/speed/capacity CF cards into the cameras, make sure the state of the cards is identical (ie: freshly formatted).

Ok . . . . we know that if we take a still image while filming then the video pauses while the still is processed and then written the the CF card - after which the video will continue to record . . .

So . . . start each camera recording video - and using an infa-red remote pointed towards the two cameras - (and equidistantly placed from each sensor on each camera) - take a still, both cameras will snap a still at the same time, then write the image to the CF card and drop back into video record - the process of receiving the infa-red shutter release - taking the still and writing the still should be temporally identical which means when the video kicks back in it will be in sync.

 

[Texanite]

using an infa-red remote pointed towards the two cameras - (and equidistantly placed from each sensor on each camera)

To make sure that things aren't offset by the speed of light?

- take a still, both cameras will snap a still at the same time, then write the image to the CF card and drop back into video record - the process of receiving the infa-red shutter release - taking the still and writing the still should be temporally identical which means when the video kicks back in it will be in sync.

Or do it the way things have been synced for years and years in film. Just shoot a slate. Clap it. Find the frame of each clip that has the slate closing and line them up.