Seeking XF 300 Custom Picture Files

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djkoz

Well-known member
I recently purchased the XF300 and have watched Doug Jensen's excellent videos several times so I feel I know how to get started on solid ground. However, I would like to experiment with various Custom Picture Files. The camera comes with a few, Doug shared his settings in his videos, and I installed the BBC recommended settings. That said, I would like to experiment with others, especially, but not limited to, those that give me more of a film look.

I know how to modify the CPF but I do not know enough to understand what each of the settings actually do. I've searched this site and others, but I can't find links to any CPFs that others wish to share. The one link I did find on this site was broken, it lead nowhere.

If you have links to sites that have CPFs that one can download or at least view the settings, I would appreciate it. I called Canon but they had no such resource.

Thanks,

Dan
 
First you need to decide whether you're going for a finished look in-camera or a flatter look for grading in post. And by grading I don't mean anything really complicated, just things you can do in any NLE like setting low, mid, and high exposure using scopes as a guide, plus color correction and adjusting saturation and sharpness.

My personal preference is to take time to learn a bit about what the settings do, then you can get any look you want. The settings files (I have the XF100) I found online did not suit me - they weren't vivid enough nor flat enough - too middle of the road.

I don't have time for longer post, but tell us more what you are aiming for and I can post back tomorrow explaining some of the settings - it's really not rocket science and mere mortals can do it :-)
 
I appreciate your reply. I am aware that using a CPF like the ones recommended by the BBC or Doug Jensen will yield a video that should grade well in post. However, I anticipate some situations, one arising next week, in which I will not be doing the actual editing and the turn around time is short. So, I was hoping to have available a few additional CPFs that I can use to yield a pretty much finished product right out of the can, so to speak.

So, if you have some links or CPF files that you care to share, I would be most appreciative. I am looking for something that will produce a "film" look and others that will at least produce rich colors. And, if you have a link to some educational sources that will help me better understand what each of the CPF settings do, that would be helpful, as well.

Thanks, again. I really do appreciate it.

Dan
 
Here's a link to the XF Vimeo group. It's not been active in some time, but I just checked and the first link there still allows download of two CP files from Brian Weed. He describes them on the page. Be sure to download the files for the XF300, not the XF100.

I found those not vivid or contrasty enough for my taste, but check them out.

https://vimeo.com/groups/canonxf/forum/topic:230636

I also have the Doug Jensen DVD set, since 90% of it applies to the XF100 as well. He *does* consider the settings that he shares on the DVD to be a finished look in-camera, so be sure to test that for yourself. I found it also did not fit my taste.

I'm not an expert, and don't wish to insult your intelligence, but since you asked, here's a quick and dirty rundown of the major settings that have the primary effect...

Gamma - controls the overall contrast and color - the Normal gammas are punchier and more video-like. Cine1 has softer rolloff of highs and lows and is considered more film-like. Cine2 is an even lower contrast look. Both of the Cine gammas soak up more light than the Normal ones. As a general consensus from three years of reading forum posts, most people seem to use Cine1.

Black
-Master Pedestal moves general black level up or down
-Black Gamma controls the curve of the rolloff of shadows. I like using Level 29, Range 3, and Point 25 here to give a softer rolloff than is included in Cine1.

Knee controls highlights rolloff, except - when using one of the Cine gammas the manual Knee controls have no effect because the Knee is controlled by the Cine1 or 2 setting. If using a gamma that lets you use manual Knee, Slope 10, Point 70, and Saturation 2 gives a softer rolloff that controls blown out highlights well.

Sharpness
-Level controls overall sharpness, like edges and lines
-Coring-->Level - this controls small details and texture - a higher number softens the detail, thus helping limit noise, artifacts, moire, etc. A lower number gives better in-camera sharpness but at the risk of introducing over sharpening artifacts. I keep this around 0 as a balance between the two.

Noise Reduction
The BBC report considered the Automatic setting to be pretty effective. If I'm going to have to use higher Gain, I sometimes turn this on manual so I can add more in-camera smoothing. But I usually keep it on Auto.

Color Matrix
-Select lets you pick a Gamma for the color - I recommend using the same choice (Cine1, for example) as you set for the overall Gamma above. If these don't match, I've found that you get weird color shifts in skin tones even if you white balance manually (which I strongly recommend).
-Gain - this equals color saturation. I still can't decide if I prefer raising this in-camera or later in post, I don't see a lot of difference. This is just personal taste. I like a lot of color, but keep this around 0 for grading in post, or 15-25 for a more finished look with Cine1. I've found that going above 25 here can cause red skin tones. (There are deep color controls that would probably correct for this, but that's beyond me.)

So for a more finished film like look, I'd start by using Cine1 or 2 with a Master Pedestal from -5 to 0 and the Black Gamma settings above. I'd use Sharpness between 0 and 5 and leave Coring at about 0. Noise Reduction on Auto, match the Color Matrix to the Gamma you chose, and set Color Matrix Gain to 15-20.

95% of the time I personally use a very flat look that I adjust in post - Master Pedestal raised a LOT, same Black Gamma, Sharpness and Coring at 0, Color Matrix Gain between 0 and 5. This gives a very washed out look until I adjust it in post, but it lets me simulate greater dynamic range - I can keep the highs under control without the shadows being crushed. Then I just put the highs and lows where I want them in post and tweak saturation, sharpness, and color correction.

Either way, I recommend using the waveform to make sure highs and lows are under control. Oh, and keep exposure Gain as low as you can - these cams can get a bit noisy. The Gain starts at -6 instead of 0, so keep the Gain between -6 and +6 if you can. On the XF300 +9 is still pretty good I think, and you might even get away with +12. Higher than that and you might need noise reduction in post. Also, since these are small chip cams, don't use small iris settings or the image will be degraded due to diffraction - keep it at 5.6 or wider. I usually keep it between 1.8 and 4.

I highly recommend testing all these settings though. But, since you now have a better picture of what the settings do, if the CP files I've linked to or my suggestions don't suit you, you'll have a sense of how to change them to get what you want.

Hope this helps!
 
Thanks, this is good information. I downloaded the CPFs from Vimeo and will play around with them, hopefully, soon. I agree that Doug's CPF seems to lack a little punch but maybe he prefers that style so that he has more latitude to work with in post if he wanted to.

Like you, I am looking for something more vivid and contrasty. Care to share the settings you prefer?

Again, thanks for your help.

Dan
 
Vivid and contrasty? I shoot super flat and add the vivid and contrast in post, but for in-camera...

Normal Gammas can get a less subtle, video look but I stick with Cine1

Set Black/Master Pedestal to -4 to -8

I still use the Black Gamma settings for a softer rolloff even when I want crushed blacks: Level 23, Range 4, and Point 29 but you could lower some of those for more crushed blacks.

You could turn on Low Key Saturation and set it to 4 or so.

Try Sharpness at 6 or 8 and Coring of 0 or -2.

Color Matrix/Gain try 25 - 35. Sometimes you get some reddish skin tones if you go above 25 but it depends on the subject. Definitely white balance manually with the CP setting you're going to shoot with.

Many early testers said to set Color Matrix/ R-G to -8 as the cam can go a bit green.

That should get you a sharp, punchy look at the expense of dynamic range. Try this and adjust as you wish.
 
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