scene setting for HMC150
- Thread starter vocare
- Start date
Download the HMC150 Scene File Handbook from the Panasonic ("PASS") web site.
To directly answer your question from the handbook:
"F4 - B-STR - Suitable for some shooting locations such as “sunsets” and “in the Theater”. It makes the darken part to be more visible even under bright environment. And it would be effective for a scene which has dark & bright part together (wedding ceremony etc.).
This mode expands gradation at darker part (Black stretch) by assigning a “HIGH” gamma
curve."
The joke is that the person who wrote that probably has a better command of the English language than most of the graduates of our public schools.
Relating to the Barry Green recommendation regarding the HPX170 -- you may want to consider adding +2 to DETAIL CORING. I recently started testing that and although the difference isn't significant -- it does indeed appear to reduce noise without significant softening.
Another approach is to reduce the sharpness settings in-camera (some recommend as far as -7), because in-camera sharpening sharpens noise, and to do image sharpening in post -- resulting in a sharper image with dramatically less noise. In preliminary tests I've done -- this works.
The best looking direct from camera scene file is F3 SPARK -- which is the B.Press ("black press") gamma with increased CHROMA LEVEL and DETAIL LEVEL. This looks nice and is very low on noise -- but it crushes blacks -- limiting options in post. It's a winner in good light -- but it may be too problematic for low light situations (it's very low on dynamic range).
On the other hand -- there appear to be many people entirely happy with the default F1 Normal. So, the answer to your question may be -- "no."
To directly answer your question from the handbook:
"F4 - B-STR - Suitable for some shooting locations such as “sunsets” and “in the Theater”. It makes the darken part to be more visible even under bright environment. And it would be effective for a scene which has dark & bright part together (wedding ceremony etc.).
This mode expands gradation at darker part (Black stretch) by assigning a “HIGH” gamma
curve."
The joke is that the person who wrote that probably has a better command of the English language than most of the graduates of our public schools.
Relating to the Barry Green recommendation regarding the HPX170 -- you may want to consider adding +2 to DETAIL CORING. I recently started testing that and although the difference isn't significant -- it does indeed appear to reduce noise without significant softening.
Another approach is to reduce the sharpness settings in-camera (some recommend as far as -7), because in-camera sharpening sharpens noise, and to do image sharpening in post -- resulting in a sharper image with dramatically less noise. In preliminary tests I've done -- this works.
The best looking direct from camera scene file is F3 SPARK -- which is the B.Press ("black press") gamma with increased CHROMA LEVEL and DETAIL LEVEL. This looks nice and is very low on noise -- but it crushes blacks -- limiting options in post. It's a winner in good light -- but it may be too problematic for low light situations (it's very low on dynamic range).
On the other hand -- there appear to be many people entirely happy with the default F1 Normal. So, the answer to your question may be -- "no."
i've got a wedding come up in a week so i've been exploring scene file settings too.
this wedding is all outdoors, from 5-10pm, so i expect to get quite a lot of extreme contrast between whatever artificial lighting they might have and the afternoon setting sun casting long shadows.
i'm going to try shooting at 1080_60i so that i have full HD size to play with inside an 480_30p SD project as well as being able to use DRS.
i've tweaked the cineD scene file: detail +2, vcoring +2, chroma phase -2, master ped 0, skn dtl ON, auto iris 0
basically, i want a pretty flat image and want the camera to automatically deal with the extreme highlights and shadows while i adjust for the midtones and try to follow the action. i also want a little extra sharpening, but without the noise.
i'm supposed to integrate some of the photographer's still shots into the video so i want to be able to CC in post to match whatever they give me.
this will be my first wedding shoot so i hope this experiment goes well!
i know that a lot of HMC150 owners are wedding shooters....would be nice to hear from some of them about what settings they like to use.
this wedding is all outdoors, from 5-10pm, so i expect to get quite a lot of extreme contrast between whatever artificial lighting they might have and the afternoon setting sun casting long shadows.
i'm going to try shooting at 1080_60i so that i have full HD size to play with inside an 480_30p SD project as well as being able to use DRS.
i've tweaked the cineD scene file: detail +2, vcoring +2, chroma phase -2, master ped 0, skn dtl ON, auto iris 0
basically, i want a pretty flat image and want the camera to automatically deal with the extreme highlights and shadows while i adjust for the midtones and try to follow the action. i also want a little extra sharpening, but without the noise.
i'm supposed to integrate some of the photographer's still shots into the video so i want to be able to CC in post to match whatever they give me.
this will be my first wedding shoot so i hope this experiment goes well!
i know that a lot of HMC150 owners are wedding shooters....would be nice to hear from some of them about what settings they like to use.
Superfresa66
Well-known member
Spark (scene # 3) works pretty good for outdoor weddings, however in low light you might have to tweak it a little bit as it could get grainy... what are you're lighting options? also since you're shooting low light at night you could try using a slower shutter like 1/30... 1080_60i works good but be careful if you try 24P as it's a little hard to focus!!!
I usually open up the lens, if i still need more light i gain up to 12db, and last step i'll set shutter to 1/30... another last resort option would be to gain up to 18db (only available if you're on 60i)... but i should warn you to be careful if you do go to 18db you could add a lot of grain (depending on your picture profile)
Remember that a little ambient light goes a loooooong way!
but i think you should really be ok since your final project is SD!
Good luck =)
I usually open up the lens, if i still need more light i gain up to 12db, and last step i'll set shutter to 1/30... another last resort option would be to gain up to 18db (only available if you're on 60i)... but i should warn you to be careful if you do go to 18db you could add a lot of grain (depending on your picture profile)
Remember that a little ambient light goes a loooooong way!
but i think you should really be ok since your final project is SD!
Good luck =)
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