Prime lenses, rack focus...alert
- Thread starter Shooter
- Start date
EWS
Active member
Sure thing. It will probably be a few weeks before I can get it to him, but I will let you know.
I got the impression that he disassembles the entire thing and cleans elements and repacks the grease although I have never seen it done, I would like to check it out if possible when he does it.
If it works out I have a couple more Nikon primes I would like to have done. I have the kit lens and the pancake, but I just love the look of the Nikon glass.
I got the impression that he disassembles the entire thing and cleans elements and repacks the grease although I have never seen it done, I would like to check it out if possible when he does it.
If it works out I have a couple more Nikon primes I would like to have done. I have the kit lens and the pancake, but I just love the look of the Nikon glass.
profnoxin
Well-known member
I too have had this issue with certain Nikons when used on a 7D/5DMkII. Some of this wobble can come at the point of the adaptor and I was able to fix it by cutting tiny (I'm talking less than a 16th of an inch) pieces of gaff tape and attaching them to the adaptor. This extra bit of pressure cut the wobble right out. The lenses mount extremely tight now, no more wobble or slippage while racking. If this wobble is not due to wear and tear on the focus barrel, you may be able to fix it with this method.
Peter Sensor
New member
Nikkor shift / cine upgrade
Nikkor shift / cine upgrade
Shooter,
Yes we' ve seen this at RP lens.
These lens barrels are very thin, they were built to be light and used by photographers.
This is why when press-fitting gears measurements and the cut need to be spot-on. Too tight and the focus can bind. The problem you are seeing we have fixed by cleaning and re-dampening the focus helicoid. This is something we check for on every lens set we sell, if we see this we fix it before it goes out. It takes only a very little amount of play on that barrel to make this happen.
Your lens tech there should know what to do.
Thanks,
Peter
Nikkor shift / cine upgrade
Shooter,
Yes we' ve seen this at RP lens.
These lens barrels are very thin, they were built to be light and used by photographers.
This is why when press-fitting gears measurements and the cut need to be spot-on. Too tight and the focus can bind. The problem you are seeing we have fixed by cleaning and re-dampening the focus helicoid. This is something we check for on every lens set we sell, if we see this we fix it before it goes out. It takes only a very little amount of play on that barrel to make this happen.
Your lens tech there should know what to do.
Thanks,
Peter
Shooter
Veteran
Thank you Peter. Really appreciate you coming on here and commenting on this.
Your comment about the way they were built reflects exactly what my lens techo said.
Shooter (NZ)
FWIW. My lens guy does not do a cine conversion. I am still weighing up my options which includes getting a set from RP Lens.
Craig,
I remember reading a while back you were still trying to figure out which cine mod direction to go.
Im going to be sending my set of ZF's over to Duclos for a cinemod sometime in the next few months, if your still tossing up your options we could share shipping to bring costs down.
Might save you selling your lenses off, although if they are having this issue then maybe not..
Joe
I remember reading a while back you were still trying to figure out which cine mod direction to go.
Im going to be sending my set of ZF's over to Duclos for a cinemod sometime in the next few months, if your still tossing up your options we could share shipping to bring costs down.
Might save you selling your lenses off, although if they are having this issue then maybe not..
Joe
Shooter
Veteran
Hey Joe
(Thats my Hendrix line)
I will be getting a prime set of Nikkors "sorted" here...and I will evaluate how well they work by a re-test.
(These lenses are already tested and optically great but the "issue" makes them kind of un workeable in some situations - table top really accentuates this because there is a lot of focus racking going on )
My decision to get cinetised lenses will be more to do with getting fiitted zoom rings to a lens set instead of the cumbersome Redrock type rings as well as the act that the lenses are checked for the issue ( as I have come to call it.).
We should talk anyway. Agreed cost of shipping 2-ways is prohibitive but down time without them needs consideration also.
I have a set of FD lenses that I just tried out (Novoflex adaptor) and they all suffer from it to some degree. The 35mm being the worst and the 100mm the best. The 50mm 1.4 suffers a bit. They were given to me from a photojournalist that didn´t need them any longer, so not too big a loss, but certainly dissapointing. They did intercut ok with my 14-35mm f2 Oly, a bit warmer, but I suppose whitbalancing could fix that. I just did a quick test in my living room so I didn´t WB between changing lense. The FD´s seemed surprisingly sharp even wide open.
I guess I will start out using my Oly, and maybe the longer nikors for interviews.
I really want that 35-100mm too now
And a set of Zeiss CP.2´s.......
I guess I will start out using my Oly, and maybe the longer nikors for interviews.
I really want that 35-100mm too now
And a set of Zeiss CP.2´s.......
John Foundas
Well-known member
I experienced this today with the Nikon 28-300. Total lateral image shift when I did a small rack from a side mirror to a back bumper of a car. Was at the long end of the lens, maybe 200-225mm.
Just got myself a Nikon 50mm 1.8 AI-s lens. Total mint condition, but it has this issue, thank god that I found this thread (I'm not the only one will say).
Has anyone found a solution to this? The focus ring is a bit to hard to pull IMO, maybe that could one of the reasons? Also, I feel that there is some play in the focus ring when turning it slightly left to right or the other way...
Has anyone found a solution to this? The focus ring is a bit to hard to pull IMO, maybe that could one of the reasons? Also, I feel that there is some play in the focus ring when turning it slightly left to right or the other way...
Shooter
Veteran
Take it to a lens technician and see if they can clean and re grease the mechanism. THey will know what to do.
Okay, since I love to disassemble everything in my house , I just screw apart the entire lens, cleaned of the old grease and put on new. It now works like a charm! I've done this earlier to my old E lenses (but not of this reason) and it was really easy. Now, the AI-s are a bit more tricky and took qute a while to make the F stop ring to work with the lens as it should.
But now, it works great! I can't say that the grease did the work, maybe I adjusted something along the way that sorted the issue out- I don't know, but it works now and the focus is a bit smoother =)
Hope my experience can help other people in the same situation =)
But now, it works great! I can't say that the grease did the work, maybe I adjusted something along the way that sorted the issue out- I don't know, but it works now and the focus is a bit smoother =)
Hope my experience can help other people in the same situation =)
Shooter
Veteran
Nikkor lenses are made of quite a light barrel construction. They wear.
My technician used a grease/lubricant of a viscosity that takes up a bit of the wear in the older lenses. They worked much better once the job was done.
They were declicked at the same time. This also requires some grease so that the aperture ring is not free wheeling.
Bern Caughey
Veteran
Years ago a friend shot 3D for Disney with dual 65mm cameras, & they had to cherry-pick the Hasselblad lenses to find ones with no image shift.
Gary Senda
Well-known member
I think you all understimate the image shifting introduced by the play of the mount. I have a set of Canon FD glass that I have used for years with a DOF adapter and now with AF101. When I used it with my SGPro I could see the image breathing but there was not any sort of shifting. Now, with AF100 I have this issue. The Canon FD mount is a solid rock mount, that definitively locks the lens to the camera body, without any minimal play, but AF100 mount don't lock and has a minimal play. You can see the same issue with 14-140 kit lens.
Anyway I have fixed it: when I use FF I put a lens support under the adapter and I lock the adapter using the lens support... and my issue has disappeared
Regards
Gary
Anyway I have fixed it: when I use FF I put a lens support under the adapter and I lock the adapter using the lens support... and my issue has disappeared
Regards
Gary
tired
Well-known member
ohhh - interesting - so the act of the rack focus produces tourque. I'm assuming that's either due to slack within the lens itself or between the lens and the camera (adaptor) - I can see that happening left or right but shifting up or down?? - I'd be interested in hearing your results on that one.