Preordered a GH-1, Changing my mind

The good thing about the LCD glasses is they are hands free. I can run with one hand on my steadytracker and the other on the lens. I'll report back later about the framing I've only had a few minutes to play around with them but it looked like everything that was displayed on the MKII LCD was visible through the glasses. I'm just going to wear them upside down for low mode stabilized shots.
 
Entity said:
That actually doesn't work if you think about it. I tried that too at first, but the LIVE lcd still looks the same recording upside down when you are monitoring it upside down (live), as it does when you film right side up. I think it's a bit confusing to think about. Also, I may consider a bigger lcd, but for now I want something more compact. Thanks though.
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Actually, I think that squig's idea is truly the best one for you. It's brilliant; I don't know why I didn't think of it. BUT, what's wrong with it is that he's probably using low-resolution glasses.

I've found what looks like great glasses that offer VGA resolution and input: http://www.erwincomputers.com/227t00011.htmlhttp://www.zetronix.com/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=64

If you combine that with the other half of my idea, which is to use HDFury to connect the HDMI-out to the VGA-in, then you've got the best compact monitoring solution for under $400.

Resolution is important for nailing focus, especially on the 5D, which has super -shallow DOF. Focusing with such shallow DOF is already really tough, as other 5D users will tell you; don't make it harder with a low-resolution monitor.
 
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ydgmdlu said:
As far as your mirror idea goes, you could always just mount the camera upside-down and flip the recorded video in post.
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:crybaby:

The idea seems logical, but of course will not work, when you turn a camera upside down your subject will remain upright.
 
Lee Wilson said:
:crybaby:

The idea seems logical, but of course will not work, when you turn a camera upside down your subject will remain upright.
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Yes, I just realized that. I'm pretty tired at the moment.

Actually, to be completely precise, the image hitting the sensor already is upside down. The camera's firmware just flips it..
 
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ydgmdlu said:
Actually, I think that squig's idea is truly the best one for you. It's brilliant; I don't know why I didn't think of it. BUT, what's wrong with it is that he's probably using low-resolution glasses.

I've found what looks like great glasses that offer VGA resolution and input: http://www.erwincomputers.com/227t00011.htmlhttp://www.zetronix.com/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=64

If you combine that with the other half of my idea, which is to use HDFury to connect the HDMI-out to the VGA-in, then you've got the best compact monitoring solution for under $400.

Resolution is important for nailing focus, especially on the 5D, which has super -shallow DOF. Focusing with such shallow DOF is already really tough, as other 5D users will tell you; don't make it harder with a low-resolution monitor.
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how much better resolution are we talking?

The thing I like about these widescreen one's is that I can stretch out my anamorphic image with them which doesn't appear to be an option with any of the VGA glasses. I'm just uploading the footage I've shot to my mac now so I'll be able to report shortly whether I was able to focus accurately.
 
squig said:
how much better resolution are we talking?

The thing I like about these widescreen one's is that I can stretch out my anamorphic image with them which doesn't appear to be an option with any of the VGA glasses. I'm just uploading the footage I've shot to my mac now so I'll be able to report shortly whether I was able to focus accurately.
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The resolution would be three to four times higher. Actually, the resolution of the VGA glasses (920K dots) is exactly the same as the camera LCD's resolution.

The downside of your widescreen glasses is that the image will have the wrong aspect ratio when you're not shooting anamorphic footage. So for the rest of us, a 4:3 monitor is best for general usage.

Low-resolution monitors can be used to focus accurately by eye. After all, focusing by eye is just finding the point where the image on the screen is the sharpest. But the task is simply harder since the image is harder to judge, due both to the low resolution and the bottom-of-the-barrel signal quality of composite video. Focusing on still objects with a locked-off camera is nothing compared to focusing on moving objects or when the camera is moving. That's where the resolution jump might make a real, practical difference.
 
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ydgmdlu said:
The resolution would be three to four times higher. Actually, the resolution of the VGA glasses (920K dots) is exactly the same as the camera LCD's resolution.

The downside of your widescreen glasses is that the image will have the wrong aspect ratio when you're not shooting anamorphic footage. So for the rest of us, a 4:3 monitor is best for general usage.
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I think I'm going to be upgrading. If I can get an image close to the LCD I'll be very happy.

The widescreen glasses also have a 4:3 option
 
I would strongly suggest going with an hdmi based monitor because of resolution. I've focused on horrible screens before, but if you're not gonna get a high res screen you might as well go with the 920,000 pixels of the MKII onboard LCD. The onboard is amazing. It's the best I've ever used. With that being said, you definitely need something external for low angle shots, etc. If only it flipped out.
 
The VR920 glasses that I linked seem to be powered by USB, so you would need a USB battery. I found one on Buy.com for around 30 bucks.

A VGA display needs to be connected through VGA in order to take full advantage of the resolution. A composite signal is always 480i. And composite is, of course, the lowest quality analog video standard. So if you're going to spend the extra money on high resolution glasses, you need to feed them the best possible signal.
 
ydgmdlu said:
The VR920 glasses that I linked seem to be powered by USB, so you would need a USB battery. I found one on Buy.com for around 30 bucks.
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thanks, I hadn't noticed that it wasn't self powered. It looks like a good option after hours of googling on these things. I did find a DVI one for a mere $4000. The only other option is the zacuto loupe or the like but they aren't as flexible.
 
PappasArts said:
That's a good idea. You know it's a matter of time that someones going to make an electronic viewfinder for the 5D. Kinda like the RED VF. Now that would be awesome...


.
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Exactly. Now That I can live with. This little LCD is basically an electronic view finder you can articulate in any direction, it's just a bit more cumbersome than I'd like but it works perfect for focusing especially with a hoodman and keeps the camera as a whole small. Once you start adding large LCDs it sorta becomes a studio setup.

Which is fine if you're always on a tripod or less run-n-gun I suppose.

It's about the same as using an HVX LCD to me. I suspect with an Redrock Eyepiece it'll be even better.
 
Waiting for "all-in-one"

Waiting for "all-in-one"

The disadvantages for me are: No flip out LCD,
No remote control for release the Video start (till now)
No autofocus.


Batteries are OK, I have three of them and never needed all (careful use, external monitor)


and the jello? All who are complaining that, have never seen a panning shot with the GH-1. Its terrible full of artifacts. What I have seen, is finally useless for professional work.
But the Canon is controllable


And lenses? I am using beside the Canon 2/8 70-200mm and the 4/24-105 and the 2,8 17-35mm
my old PENTAX-K lenses and they are great.


I am afraid we are all waiting for the “all in one” camera for less money, and so we will wait forever and discuss always the same things. Remember me when the 5D Mark III (IV, V, VI) is out.
Benn
 
The thing holding me off from getting a GH1 is that the colours still look very video to me. I think it's the way the highlights are so sharp. Plus I normally like my narratives with super wides, at least an 20mm 2.8, so no go really.

I do love the size of the thing though..
 
Kholi said:
Search this:

Ikan 2.5" LCD (Spec-Comm)
Noga Arm (Heavy Duty might be best)
Hoodman for 2.5" LCD OR one of those EyePieces From Zacuto or Redrock
Composite Out
Small Battery Back (two rechargeables will do)

350.00 to 400 at the most.

It'll solve the Viewfinder issue and you get full range as far as versatility goes.

Just makes the camera larger unfortunately.
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Maybe one can use JXD 951 / 921 and the like for really really compact external screen?
Those are sub $100 solutions with built in battery that will last about 5 hours. This Ikan is almost like a rebranded Liliput and has that same low rez display as those TV-in media players I suggested. Those players unfortunately have no mounting options.

Cheers,
T
 
benn said:
The disadvantages for me are: No flip out LCD,
and the jello? All who are complaining that, have never seen a panning shot with the GH-1. Its terrible full of artifacts. What I have seen, is finally useless for professional work.
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If you shoot a pan with a 1/500 shutter speed on GH1 then yes, the encoding breaks. But who shoots video or film with that as standard? At least with the PAL model and 1/50 shutter the 'mud effect' isn't a show stopper. Have posted two samples, 1080 & 720 here:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=174324
 
Martti Ekstrand said:
If you shoot a pan with a 1/500 shutter speed on GH1 then yes, the encoding breaks. But who shoots video or film with that as standard? At least with the PAL model and 1/50 shutter the 'mud effect' isn't a show stopper. Have posted two samples, 1080 & 720 here:

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=174324
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Don't make this a GH-1 vs. 5Dii thread. They both have their strengths and their weaknesses.
 
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